Folding Bushcraft Knife

[JonathanD]

Alfredo and I are trying to come up with a decent bushcraft folder design over on BcUK. Our styles are quite different but our aim is the same, a solid robust and comfortable folder for use in the woods. Here's my very rough first draft based on my fixed blade. Please feel free to chime in.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a77/darkcrown_1969/DSC07131-1.jpg

[Basemetal]

What's your design brief?
Seen the Helle Folder (http://www.helle.no/Default.aspx?tabid=7974&language=en-US)?

[mr doyle]

JD,
Probably worth looking at the EKA Big Swede if you have not done all ready. Blade shape and grind is probably right up your street.
I also think the lock on the EKA is excellent and amongst the strongest I have seen, however, it does leave some room to take a finger off when closing the knife! That spring is pretty savage..
Cool design....
M

[JonathanD]

What's your design brief?
Seen the Helle Folder (http://www.helle.no/Default.aspx?tabid=7974&language=en-US)?

Yeah, seen that, I just want something more personal. There's something nice about having your own knife.

[Basemetal]

Yeah, seen that, I just want something more personal. There's something nice about having your own knife.
Absolutely. :)
So what matters to you?

Blade thickness? Steep Scandi Grind? Wide blade? Distal Taper? No Ricasso, No Choil, thumb ramp? Steel?
Centre Lock, two hand opening (and closing since no safe choil), Synthetic scales?, Boyes dent?, Liners? screw construction?

[JonathanD]

Absolutely. :)
So what matters to you?

Blade thickness? Steep Scandi Grind? Wide blade? Distal Taper? No Ricasso, No Choil, thumb ramp? Steel?
Centre Lock, two hand opening (and closing since no safe choil), Synthetic scales?, Boyes dent?, Liners? screw construction?

I'm trying to get it as close to the fixed blade Deval Bushcrafter as possible. 3mm blade, thumb ramp, possibly a Boyes dent, carbon fibre scales.. possibly.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a77/darkcrown_1969/Deval%20Bushcrafter/DSC04872.jpg

The only thing I've not decided on is steel. Gotta be stainless though. Maybe full flat grind. Designing a folder is somthing I've never done and the fixed blade version took me four years, three makers and a second mortgage to get 100% perfect.

[Basemetal]

One source of inspiration is to critique the folders that exist near to your functional requirements.
This pic was handy... so what's not to like in these designs, or maybe better, what's best in them that you'd carry into yours?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Basemetal/P1030923.jpg

Your sketched blade shape is a bit like the Rittergrip.
I think the safest knife to use here is the Manix with the big choil, but the best woodworker is the Buck
(I find blade depth works against whittling).
and so on... ? (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Basemetal/P1030923.jpg)

[reuben]

Have look at the Bushcraft Folder by Bernie Garland. I reckon that it's nearly as good as a fixed blade for most things.

[JonathanD]

Have look at the Bushcraft Folder by Bernie Garland. I reckon that it's nearly as good as a fixed blade for most things.

I have, but it's far removed from my ergonomics. Construction is worth considering though.

[JonathanD]

One source of inspiration is to critique the folders that exist near to your functional requirements.
This pic was handy... so what's not to like in these designs, or maybe better, what's best in them that you'd carry into yours?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Basemetal/P1030923.jpg

Your sketched blade shape is a bit like the Rittergrip.
I think the safest knife to use here is the Manix with the big choil, but the best woodworker is the Buck
(I find blade depth works against whittling).
and so on... ? (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Basemetal/P1030923.jpg)

I think the Manix is close. I don't need the choil. On a bushy knife I think it will get in the way of certain cutting methods. A few more tweaks to my original draft and I'll go with a 3D model and work on it from there some more. I know the handle needs some lengthening maybe. Only way to be sure is to do a mock up.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a77/darkcrown_1969/Deval%20Bushcrafter/DSC07132-2.jpg

[Basemetal]

The main reason I like the choil is for closing the knife with one hand...rather than for choking up on the blade.
The blade flops into this position...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Basemetal/closingManix.jpg
That steep plunge line and its extension beyond the blade edge lets you make braced power cuts against it despite the ricasso.

[JonathanD]

The main reason I like the choil is for closing the knife with one hand...rather than for choking up on the blade.
The blade flops into this position...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Basemetal/closingManix.jpg
That steep plunge line and its extension beyond the blade edge lets you make braced power cuts against it despite the ricasso.

Yeah, I agree with you, it's perfect for the Manix and UKPK. But with the chestlever and backhand grips, it just wouldn't work on a woodsmans knife. Closing will be a two handed affair so the ease of closure isn't an issue for me here. It took me ages to get the angles right on the fixed blade, so if I add a choil, then it's going to depart too far from a proven (for me) design and it will be like starting from scratch again. I think Alfredo is going with a choil on his design.

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58620

[Basemetal]

It's your knife ;)
The Nordic T8, IIRC, is choil/ricasso free...
Reviewed here (http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?24807-EKA-Nordic-T8-Folder) by Noddy.

[JonathanD]

It's your knife ;)
The Nordic T8, IIRC, is choil/ricasso free...
Reviewed here (http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?24807-EKA-Nordic-T8-Folder) by Noddy.

:D I used to have the Nordic T8, it's probably closer than most to what I want, but I didn't like it. I'd rather have the Tenacious in terms of ergonomics. In fact, straight out of the box, the Manix and Tenacious would be great with thicker, swollen slabs.

[Basemetal]

One question I forgot to ask... what's your rationale for wanting a folder with its weaknesses and complexities?

[Basemetal]

. In fact, straight out of the box, the Manix and Tenacious would be great with thicker, swollen slabs.

Mmmm... and the Manix, with its full steel liners, can have its scales replaced easily. :)

[JonathanD]

One question I forgot to ask... what's your rationale for wanting a folder with its weaknesses and complexities?

No rationale at all. Just thought it would be a fun project and help keep Stu on his toes. Make a nice addition to my CF fixed blade.

[JonathanD]

Mmmm... and the Manix, with its full steel liners, can have its scales replaced easily. :)

Not the same as having a custom that you had a hand in designing though is it. In all seriousness, I doubt when it's all made and shiny new, that it will see much outdoors time, it's just the satisfaction of the project and seeing the final knife.

[Basemetal]

Haha :lol:
I find I'm caught between the "any knife will do 90% of it" and the high level of definition of tasks you need to improve a knife for the other 10%.
Me and my No 10 Opinel are off to the woods for a bit :cool20:

[robin wood]

Have you seen Nicola's wiki about designing folders?
http://foldingknives.designinquiry.wikispaces.net/knife+design

[Bridger]

I know the handle needs some lengthening maybe. Only way to be sure is to do a mock up.

Yup, your handle is too short as drawn. A quick way to see if a blade will fit in the handle without doing a mockup is to measure from the tip to the center of the pivot pin and compare that to the distance from the center of the pivot pin to the end of the handle. When I'm drawing folders I usually draw the blade first and mark this distance out so that I know how long I should make the handle before I go through all the trouble of drawing it. That being said, making a mockup is a must for a folder since it's such a dynamic object that must both function and look good in all positions. It's got to look good closed as well as open.

[ZDP-189]

It's nice, but I'm personally not keen on the thumb ramp and nail nick. I would like a choil, too.

[Nightfly]

The "traditional" bushcraft handle shape would be nice, as would steel liners. Zero ground scandi with a bit of belly and a good point, sharp spine.
Sorry, should have read all the previous posts and Reuben already mentioned this and was dismissed for ergonomics. Nonetheless, here are some pics as I also agree this one ticks all the boxes:

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt274/maartenjs/DSC_0061-2.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt274/maartenjs/DSC_0063-2.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt274/maartenjs/DSC_0064-1.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt274/maartenjs/DSC_0062-2.jpg
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt274/maartenjs/DSC_0065-1.jpg

[Stew]

i know you don't want to have a liner lock Jonathan but for the first few models (I suspect you're going to work through a few prototypes) it might be worth doing the same as Bernie and buying in the liner lock kit from knifekits.com so all that needs to be worked on is the blade and scales, keeping costs down.

I do think that a choil of some sort is a good idea. If you want an exact copy of your fixed blade as a locking folder, what's the point? You have the same legal issues but the folder is more complex.
Personally I think in a folder, you should be adjusting the design slightly to suit it being a folder. A choil is one of them. Make it part of the normal grip ala UKPK rather than the Manix and it will be favoured more.

I agree that Spydies are not fat handled enough to suit heavy use that is why I've got a fat handle in the works for my UKPK. :)

[Chris Grant]

The only thing I've not decided on is steel. Gotta be stainless though. Maybe full flat grind.

Have you considered 12C27 Jon?

I have some linerlock (as well as lockback) parts/kits you can have if you'd like to use/mod them for a proto....
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww251/makemethischris/sun31034.jpg


CG

[metalbudgie]

My only suggestion
Go with a Spyderhole so as to avoid a thumb-stud sticking out which impinges on cutting through deep objects. Or if happy with 2 handed opening an old fashioned nail nick.

[xavierdoc]

If you go with a backlock design, have a look at cold steels Tri-ad lock (eg. Rajah). Mine has been used for chopping and batoning yet still no play and solid lockup. Guycep seemed quietly pressed at the summerjam.