imagedude
16-11-05, 07:18 PM
A friend phoned me earlier this year asking me if I was going to be sniping an Ebay auction for a quantity of blacksmith and tinsmith tools plus an anvil. I was aware of the auction but as my friend wanted the tinsmithing tools we agreed that he would bid and have the pick of the haul.
The auction price went higher than expected but there was a good selection of tools so the deed was done.
As is often the case with Ebay, the tools are never as good in real life as they look in the photos. Below is a photo I took and you still can't really see the condition...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/blacksmithtinsmith/websize/PICT0055.JPG
When you look a bit closer you can see the true state of the tools...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0109.JPG
As my friend is a jeweller the heads were useless in this state. Now polishing isn't my favorite job as it's dangerous and dirty but he was obviously a tad dissapointed so I offered to make good the damage in exchange for the anvil and tongs that came with the planishing heads.
First I removed the large dents with a varispeed grinder fitted with a 60 grit disk and backing pad. These were £15 each from Argos, I bought four!
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0078.JPG
I use a varispeed as I find the 11,000 rpm of a standard grinder far too agressive and you can get local overheating which leads to stress cracks and soft spots if the dollies were hardened. Backing pads are prefered over flap disks when working on rounded objects (by me anyway).
Below we can see how the 60 grit disk removes the damage but leaves flats and course scratches which are not desireable...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0111.JPG
And again...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0110.JPG
Once the dents were removed I started with a bench mounted flapwheel of 120 grit. I'd have prefered an 80 grit wheel but did not have one available. The wheels are often known as unmounted or centreless flapwheels, picture below...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0087_1.JPG
They are available from www.thepolishingshop.co.uk in grades from 60 - 320 grit, £18 for 6" x 1" wheels and £30 for 6" x 2" wheels. If you can get them cheaper please let me know.
Below we can see how the flapwheel starts to refine the dolly. I find it easier to shape the dolly with the bench polisher than the angle grinder; by rotating them in my hand against the wheel I can start to get the round shape of the dolly back. In the photo below I have used the flapwheel on the right side only, hopefully you can see the difference in finish and see how the roundness is returning...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0089.JPG
Normally I'd polish the whole of each object before moving on to a finer grit but I'm doing half at a time to try and show how the process progresses. Below we see the finish improve as I move to 180 grit...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0099.JPG
Remember, there is no point changing to a finer grit until you know you have finished with the courser grit, it'll all end in tears if you try and remove deep scratches with too fine a grit. Below we see the finish improve further...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0104.JPG
And with a finer grit it gets better still, below we see the finish I get from the 320 grit wheel...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0102.JPG
Once we get a 320 grit finishover 100% of the workpiece we can then start with the polishing mop. If there are any deep marks/scratches left on the piece or we find that we haven't got the shape we require, then we need to go back to the courser grit wheels and start the process again! It pays to do it right the first time around. Below we see the polishing mop I use with cutting paste...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0108.JPG
A common mistake is to apply too much compound, a little is all that is required. Polishing mops will try and grab the workpiece out of your hand, if you're lucky only the work will be damaged. You have been warned!
Below we see the finish that cutting compound gives...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0107.JPG
I should have sucked my gut in for that photo, too late now!
Next I changed to a cotton mop and used a finer polishing compound...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0105.JPG
And below is a set finished to 320 grit...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/dollies1/large/PICT0179.JPG
At all times throughout the process I was aware of how hot the workpiece was, frequent cooling was required. Eye protection is essential. In some of the images you can see how much airborne crap is generated, I would recommend at least a P2 standard dust mask is used.
The auction price went higher than expected but there was a good selection of tools so the deed was done.
As is often the case with Ebay, the tools are never as good in real life as they look in the photos. Below is a photo I took and you still can't really see the condition...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/blacksmithtinsmith/websize/PICT0055.JPG
When you look a bit closer you can see the true state of the tools...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0109.JPG
As my friend is a jeweller the heads were useless in this state. Now polishing isn't my favorite job as it's dangerous and dirty but he was obviously a tad dissapointed so I offered to make good the damage in exchange for the anvil and tongs that came with the planishing heads.
First I removed the large dents with a varispeed grinder fitted with a 60 grit disk and backing pad. These were £15 each from Argos, I bought four!
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0078.JPG
I use a varispeed as I find the 11,000 rpm of a standard grinder far too agressive and you can get local overheating which leads to stress cracks and soft spots if the dollies were hardened. Backing pads are prefered over flap disks when working on rounded objects (by me anyway).
Below we can see how the 60 grit disk removes the damage but leaves flats and course scratches which are not desireable...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0111.JPG
And again...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0110.JPG
Once the dents were removed I started with a bench mounted flapwheel of 120 grit. I'd have prefered an 80 grit wheel but did not have one available. The wheels are often known as unmounted or centreless flapwheels, picture below...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0087_1.JPG
They are available from www.thepolishingshop.co.uk in grades from 60 - 320 grit, £18 for 6" x 1" wheels and £30 for 6" x 2" wheels. If you can get them cheaper please let me know.
Below we can see how the flapwheel starts to refine the dolly. I find it easier to shape the dolly with the bench polisher than the angle grinder; by rotating them in my hand against the wheel I can start to get the round shape of the dolly back. In the photo below I have used the flapwheel on the right side only, hopefully you can see the difference in finish and see how the roundness is returning...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0089.JPG
Normally I'd polish the whole of each object before moving on to a finer grit but I'm doing half at a time to try and show how the process progresses. Below we see the finish improve as I move to 180 grit...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0099.JPG
Remember, there is no point changing to a finer grit until you know you have finished with the courser grit, it'll all end in tears if you try and remove deep scratches with too fine a grit. Below we see the finish improve further...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0104.JPG
And with a finer grit it gets better still, below we see the finish I get from the 320 grit wheel...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0102.JPG
Once we get a 320 grit finishover 100% of the workpiece we can then start with the polishing mop. If there are any deep marks/scratches left on the piece or we find that we haven't got the shape we require, then we need to go back to the courser grit wheels and start the process again! It pays to do it right the first time around. Below we see the polishing mop I use with cutting paste...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0108.JPG
A common mistake is to apply too much compound, a little is all that is required. Polishing mops will try and grab the workpiece out of your hand, if you're lucky only the work will be damaged. You have been warned!
Below we see the finish that cutting compound gives...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0107.JPG
I should have sucked my gut in for that photo, too late now!
Next I changed to a cotton mop and used a finer polishing compound...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/polishingadolly/websize/IMG_0105.JPG
And below is a set finished to 320 grit...
http://photos.imageevent.com/imagedude/dollies1/large/PICT0179.JPG
At all times throughout the process I was aware of how hot the workpiece was, frequent cooling was required. Eye protection is essential. In some of the images you can see how much airborne crap is generated, I would recommend at least a P2 standard dust mask is used.