Trond's woody.....

[Trond]

Paul, I have roughly cutted two pices of curly birch in the conture of the blade, so you only have to round them and drill holes in them

[Ophidian]

Trond, you are so good. :biggthump :D

[Colin KC]

While I'm waiting (patiently...) I'm going to try a practice run. I've come up with two ideas for doing this:

take a single block of wood and carve it to shape, cut it (neatly!) in half to produce the two scales, then plane the cut edges to make the scales the correct width to accomodate the tang inbetween; clamping the scales for planing could be tricky if they are very contoured
construct a sandwich of the two scales and a spacer the same width as the tang, then carve; stopping my sandwich falling apart may be a little tricky

So, any ideas which would be the better option? Or is there a better way that I haven't thought of (probably!)?

Boaty, just a tip, if you do that, make the "cut" sides, the outside, this is called *bookmatched* scales & will show similar patterns on both sides :biggthump

[boaty]

Boaty, just a tip, if you do that, make the "cut" sides, the outside, this is called *bookmatched* scales & will show similar patterns on both sides :biggthump

Thanks Colin, bookmatching was certainly in my mind when I was thinking about the second method with the spacer. The more I think about it, the more I think that this will be the better option

[Trond]

This is what i did on the material for Ophidian.
I took one pice of curly birch, planed the outside of the block, cut out the shape of the tang, if he now turns the inside out, it is ready to glue and pin on the blade.

[Martyn]

...scuse the title, it amused my purile mind. :D

OK chaps, it would seem our tame Noggin, Trond, is making a bunch of wonderful woody blades for us to play with (thanks Trond). Now I know some are more practiced than others at assembling these things. While they are essentially very easy to put together, making a *pro* job of it requires patience and attention to detail. There are definitely lots of tips and techniques that can be passed on to the newbie, which will make the whole experience less of a pain and more of a pleasure.

Go for it & have fun.

[Martyn]

BTW, if any of the new chaps want to get yer wood sorted for the handle, a good size would be 5" long, by 1.5" high and about 1" thick. Then cut down the middle to give 2 of 5" x 1.5" x 0.5". Then postition the two pieces so the cut sides are facing outwards, as someone else mentioned, this is called bookmatching. It meand on the finished knife, the grain on the handle will pretty much match from side to side. Be sure to mark the both slabs left, right, front, top etc, so you can properly orientate them again later.

Here's an example of bookmatched desert ironwood, you'll notice the grain matches up and although the two faces showing were facing each other in the original block, they are turned to end up on the outside of the handle on a finished knife...

http://www.britishblades.com/pics/arnwood2.jpg

wow - mandlebrot! :biggthump

[Martyn]

Trond, are you pre-drilling the pin/bolt holes? If so, what diameter holes?

[Ophidian]

Ok a couple of questions to start with:


1. What is the best type of glue to use?

2. Where do you get those brass rivets or screws?

3. . What do you suggest for finishing to bring out the wood’s pattern?

Has any one dealt with Brisa for knife making supplies?
http://www.brisa.fi/start3.html.

Any other recommendations? Anywhere in the UK?

I know there are plenty of US based companies, but we’ll probably be stung for duties ?

Regards,

Ophi

[Martyn]

1. What is the best type of glue to use?

Heavy duty, slow cure epoxy (araldite) available from virtually anywhere, or you could use the cutlers favourite - JB Weld, available from Halfords.




2. Where do you get those brass rivets or screws?

You can either use bolts, something like the loveless style fastener...
http://www.britishblades.com/pics/lovefast.jpg
...which is basically two fat, cylindrical, threaded washers with a srew running
through the middle, you could try B&Q and browse the hardware section, or go to a specialist fastners suppliers for more choice - brass, stainless steel etc. On the other hand, you dont need to use bolts, you can just use smooth steel pins (dont have to be steel, could be copper, brass or mosaic even). These just slide in the holes and are glued in place (you can peen the ends a little if you wish). When it all sets solid, they provide a very secure mechanical bond as well as the chemical bond from the glue.




3. . What do you suggest for finishing to bring out the wood’s pattern?

Depends entirely on what wood you use and the type of finish you want. Some need nothing at all, some woods are fine with a little oil, some need sealing. It all depends.




Has any one dealt with Brisa for knife making supplies?
http://www.brisa.fi/start3.html.

Any other recommendations? Anywhere in the UK?


Ophi

Brisa are well known and have a good reputation.

There are plenty of alternatives in the UK and lots of folks in here who know where and what to look for. It depends on your needs, but for convenience, you could probably get nearly everything you need from B&Q. ;)

[Danzo]

Dunno quite how it happened but I have suggested to Trond that he post a big single pack to me and I post them out individually :yikes: so mucho dosh is saved by all in postage from Noggin-Land.

He will sort out the cash side but email me your addresses so as to double check if you are in. Or tell Trond if you are unhappy about that.

How......? How........?

:oops:

Drink........drink.......

:alcoholic

:arg:

:biggthump

Danzo

[Trond]

Trond, are you pre-drilling the pin/bolt holes? If so, what diameter holes?
This is why there is a problem when a thread gets to big :wink: People dont bother to read the post.
I guess it was collin that asked me first in the makers sale thread, and the answer is still 6 mm
(At least up to today, cause my bore broke :D )
It is still going to be 6 mm tomorrow, cause i can buy a new one :rolleyes:

[Trond]

Danzo, it wil not be that heavy, i think there is only an order for 289 blades as for now, and that is as you know 289 envolopes for you to send LOL
I wil put each blade in the envolope and put name and adress on it, the only thing you have to do, is put stamps on them and put them in the mailbox.
BTW thanks for paying for all the stamps to.....ROTFLMAO!

[Danzo]

Trond

Is ' :censored: off ' the same in Norge as in Dansk?

:biggthump

Danzo

[jbaron]

Martyn are you going to use that wood for trond's woody. It looks fantastic

[Martyn]

Dunno Jon, it is fantastic, but it's also fantastically expensive at $50US for the pair of slabs you see. I fancied using a highly figured, but very light coloured wood - maybe curly birch, maybe something more exotic - I'll look around. ;)

[Colin KC]

Mmmm, buffalo horn:D

[bagman]

Mmmm, buffalo horn:D

is a buffalo horn the same thing as a tronds woody? :rolleyes: :biggthump

[Colin KC]

is a buffalo horn the same thing as a tronds woody? :rolleyes: :biggthump


Harvey...




...:twak:;)

[Dave Barker]

Trond

Is ' :censored: off ' the same in Norge as in Dansk?

:biggthump

Danzo
Certainly is mate!!!

I think ( that should I make one of these), I'd either go for something like Linden, og colour something. Light wood shoes the muck dunnit!

[Ophidian]

[QUOTE=Trond]Danzo, it wil not be that heavy, i think there is only an order for 289 blades as for now,


This is amazing! Less than a week since I contacted our friend Trond about making a full tang woodlorish blade and he has orders for nearly 300 blades! :yikes: Just shows the power of the Internet. I wonder how many orders Trond would get in a normal week?


This blade seems to have become an instant legend. Hey, we could even set up a Trond Owners Society (T.O.S.). Looks as though there will be enough people. ;)

It would be fun to see the faces of Bush craft Instructors when they issue out those plastic handled (£10) bush craft knifes and the student turns around and says “no I’d rather use my Trondy, anyway built it myself”. :bandit:


Paul

T.O.S Committee member

[Dave Barker]

[QUOTE=Trond]Danzo, it wil not be that heavy, i think there is only an order for 289 blades as for now,


This is amazing! Less than a week since I contacted our friend Trond about making a full tang woodlorish blade and he has orders for nearly 300 blades! :yikes: Just shows the power of the Internet. I wonder how many orders Trond would get in a normal week?


This blade seems to have become an instant legend. Hey, we could even set up a Trond Owners Society (T.O.S.). Looks as though there will be enough people. ;)

It would be fun to see the faces of Bush craft Instructors when they issue out those plastic handled (£10) bush craft knifes and the student turns around and says “no I’d rather use my Trondy, anyway built it myself”. :bandit:


Paul

T.O.S Committee member

does that make us Tos ( sers) then?

If there are that many orders then man..... alan wood could get the hump! especially when word gets round.

I'll gadly have a go at a handle if anyone doesn't fancy it BTW... could be kind of fun.

[Ophidian]

Well I did think about Alan Wood. He is not doing kit knives though is he? I know that Trond told me that the knife he made for me was not the same as the woodlore as he hates copying other peoples work. But there are only so many knife styles and different makers / manufactures bring out their own versions of classic styles. I’m sure I read somewhere that the Woodlore knife is based on an old Scandinavian design? If so it’s a case of “ what goes around comes around”

[bagman]

does that make us Tos ( sers) then?

bad Dave :lmao:

[Danzo]

I hope 289 orders is a Noggin joke!

I'll be camping in the Post Office!

:mad:

:rolleyes:

:D

Danzo

[Ophidian]

What are you going to tell the Post Master when he asks "whats all these" :approve:

Tell him that they are Trond Soc. Badges :biggthump

[Trond]

I hope 289 orders is a Noggin joke!

I'll be camping in the Post Office!

:mad:

:rolleyes:

:D

Danzo
It is Danzo, though we are getting closer :rolleyes:
I Like the idea for that T.O.S. thing, I have allways fancyed having my own fan club :notworthy :rolmao: :lmao: :lmao:

[boaty]

Where would I be without Axminster (apart from better-off :rolleyes: )? In their wood-turning section they have a Turning Timber (http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?sub=229) subgroup with lots of choices compatible with Martyn's estimated dimensions of 5"x1.5"x1".


I think ( that should I make one of these), I'd either go for something like Linden, or colour something. Light wood shows the muck dunnit!

Good point! I was thinking of something dark and dense:

African blackwood - a strong contender
American black walnut - cheap as chips
Anjan - attractive grain
Magurure - another strong contender
Sonokeling rosewood - resistance to weathering could make this the winner
Thuya burr - beautiful but expensive


Any other contenders?

[Trond]

Ehrrm Curly Birch?

[Trond]

Ivory, Gold?

[Dave Barker]

Brazillian kingwood Piccie in gallery made by... errrmmm me!)
Ziracote ( black with a whitish grain)
pokkenholt ( lignum vitae) rock hard!
Ebony Black.

snakewood everyone knows this

[keith_beef]

Where would I be without Axminster (apart from better-off :rolleyes: )? In their wood-turning section they have a Turning Timber (http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?sub=229) subgroup with lots of choices compatible with Martyn's estimated dimensions of 5"x1.5"x1".



Good point! I was thinking of something dark and dense:

African blackwood - a strong contender
American black walnut - cheap as chips
Anjan - attractive grain
Magurure - another strong contender
Sonokeling rosewood - resistance to weathering could make this the winner
Thuya burr - beautiful but expensive


Any other contenders?

You really want dark and dense? Isn't that going to make the finished knife handle-heavy?

Why not go for a North European wood, to keep in the style? If you don't like birch (too pale for your mucky hands?), then sallow is a bit darker. Beech can go dark honey coloured. And you can stain most pale woods to whatever colour you like.

Is Thuya burl expensive? I bought a 6"x6"x2" block a while ago, and don't remember thinking it extortionate. I got a nice piece of amboyna burl at the same time, 2"x2"x12"

When we've all finished these, I think we should have a gallery just for them. If we agree on a background (not Baggy's sofa, it needs to be something we can all live with), and an angle, so the pictures are all similar, then the differences in shape and material would show up nicely.

I'll host it, if you lot want it.

Keith.

[Dave Barker]

Is Thuya burl expensive? I bought a 6"x6"x2" block a while ago, and don't remember thinking it extortionate. I got a nice piece of amboyna burl at the same time, 2"x2"x12"



Keith.

where did you get that????????? :yikes:

[Colin KC]

You really want dark and dense? Isn't that going to make the finished knife handle-heavy?

Not if you taper the tang Keith:D;)

[Dave Barker]

Where would I be without Axminster (apart from better-off :rolleyes: )? In their wood-turning section they have a Turning Timber (http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?sub=229) subgroup with lots of choices compatible with Martyn's estimated dimensions of 5"x1.5"x1".




Bad boaty, I've never seen that link befre...hmmm nice wood... where is me wallet*??!!!

[keith_beef]

where did you get that????????? :yikes:


Craft supplies.
I reckoned that if I got a biggish "bowl blank", I'd be able to do the bookmarking thing better, and maybe get nice patterns by cutting at different angles.

Or maybe just do nothing with it, and keep it as an ornament. I could even hang it on the wall, it's *that* nice a piece of wood.


Keith.

[boaty]

You really want dark and dense? Isn't that going to make the finished knife handle-heavy?

I think I want the balance point at about 3/4" to 1" behind the transition from handle to blade - my pukko, Fairbairn-Sykes and Fallkniven G1 all balance at around there and all are comfortable to use (or wave around :D) for extended periods

Too dense a wood would move the balance further back; might that make the knife uncomfortable to use?


Why not go for a North European wood, to keep in the style?
That was my first idea (thinking the same thing again :rolleyes: ) but then I thought I wanted something denser (more hardwearing?)


When we've all finished these, I think we should have a gallery just for them.

Great idea!

[clcuckow]

has anybody got some profile shots of the woodlore's handle? I have never made a knife handle and want to make something I can actually use without ripping my hands up.

Christopher

[clcuckow]

anybody used these before http://www.weber-knives.com/

[Trond]

Hello everyone, how is it going, is it long before we can see the first results of your efford? :)

[keith_beef]

Hello everyone, how is it going, is it long before we can see the first results of your efford? :)

I've been working today... making mosaic pins and cutting out some holly. That is hard wood!

Keith.

[Trond]

I've been working today... making mosaic pins and cutting out some holly. That is hard wood!

Keith.
I know it is, thtat is why it is used to carve Akantus pattern, hard homogenus wood. You should be able to get a good finnish on that one :)

[Ed.]

Hi trond, Its going well :-) I've flat ground the blade now and did a few quick tests... its a lovely tool and can easily split wrist sized thick wood and the tip takes the batton well, I've re profiled the handle to suit my hands and am now looking a wood for the scales... I'm taking my time to make a good job of it so please do expect any finished results off me soon.....

:-)
Ed

[clcuckow]

Just to let you know that people are working on it Trond, here is a pic of my work in process be for I put it aside for the festivities to restart in the new year.

Be gentle, it is my first. :o

http://www.christopher.cuckow.dsl.pipex.com/pics/felleskap%20in%20the%20making.jpg

[Dave Barker]

Now that is one hefty looking handle!

Nice shaft blank. What is it?

Did you etch the blade?

[Colin KC]

Chris, congrats:D

That looks really good so far, I hope you remembered to finish the leading end of the slabs before fitting;)

Plenty of meat on that handle to sand to shape, well done :biggthump

[Trond]

Did you etch the blade?
I think he just masked it to prevent the handle to be covered in blod while working on it :yikes:

Really nice so far Chris :biggthump

[Trond]

Hi trond, Its going well :-) I've flat ground the blade now and did a few quick tests... its a lovely tool and can easily split wrist sized thick wood and the tip takes the batton well, I've re profiled the handle to suit my hands and am now looking a wood for the scales... I'm taking my time to make a good job of it so please do expect any finished results off me soon.....

:-)
Ed
So now it is no longer a Trond blade?? :yikes:
If you want to, i can harden a pice of steel, for you to shape, that wil be much cheaper :D

[Dave Barker]

Guys this is likely none of my business but there is something that has just come to mind.

Trond mate the blades, tronds name is on the blades visable as a mark for people to see.

His reputation is attatched to the blade via his name...... Now if you change the grind, and screw it up, it still has Tronds name on and people will think that he is crap at grinding 8 which is not the case), If you really screw it up and end up bluing the blade and destroying the tempering, it still has his name on the blade for everyone to see.

If people wanted a flat ground blade inthe firt place .... why not just ask? This is not an Alan Wood,It is a Trond Pedersen and should IMHO be accepted and used as it is. A good reputation is hard to get especially in the smithing world, a bad rep spreads like wildfire.... is this really fair?

I mean i wouldn't like one of my knives to be doctored and then sold or given to a third party with my makers mark on the sheath.


Just my tupence worth.

[clcuckow]

Thanks for going gentle, the scales are cut from a Imbuya Bowl Blank so should be really dark when finished. I know its a bit meaty at the moment but I have large hands (10" hand span) and am working on the principle that I can take off but cannot add back. I also had to hand cut the scales and the bowl blank was to big to fit in a mitre block, and yes Colin it is angled.

[Colin KC]

Good skills Chris;)

[Jon]

Hi Dave,
The thought had not occured to me before but you are right, this blade has Tronds name on it and if I totaly mess it up his reputation is at risk. Personaly all the work I 've done has been with hand tools, so the tempering is safe and the finished knife will be for me to use, but the principle remains the same.

Sorry Trond, no disrespect was intended I've had my blinkers on and did not see the bigger picture.

Jon

[Trond]

I read Daves post, and what he has pointed out was exactely my thoughts, so thanks Dave

I do not take this as dis respect, however if you wanted something else, you could ask for it, or if you wanted to make a blade yourself, i could help providing steel and heat treating.
What i am most conserned about is the heat treat, it is very easy to overdo the grinding and if the edge turns blue, wel you have to re- heat treat the blade. I was asked to make a blade that was "woodloreish" and i did that, i changed the shape on the handle a litle cause i would put my personal touch to it.
If any of you want to have a flat grind, tappered blade with this shape or a shape of your drawing, feel free to contact me on PM or e-mail and we can discuss it. Or, if you want i can make you a "half fabricate" without my name on it, and you can finnish it yourself.

I realize that many of you did not think about what Dave pointed out, and i am a resonable guy :) so i wil not hold this against anyone.

[Colin KC]

I fully agree with what Dave & Trond have said (Trond very kindly has supplied me with an un-treated blade, which I will HT & finish myself (Trond will see the finished article in person before agreeing that it's ok, like any good collaboration;))

[clcuckow]

Here we go. Next stop I will have to think about the sheath (another first I have never done any real leatherwork before).

http://www.christopher.cuckow.dsl.pipex.com/pics/Felleskap%20F5.jpg

Comments and suggestions welcome.

[Colin KC]

Nicely done Chris, looks, figuratively, like a tank;) & I'm sure will be a credit to you when the project is finally finished :35: :D

[clcuckow]

I know it quite a meaty handle but I have large hands and it is only slightly larger and my Kellam Wildfinn Puukko which I have used a a profile model. It a bit thicker at the front of the scales though, even so it feels very comfy in the hand though. The real test will come when I use it for the first time.

[Trond]

Wel done Christopher, you made me proud:)

Looking forward to seeing the sheeth though.

What about a piccie right from above, it is a bit hard to see the knife shape here;)

[clcuckow]

I deliberately kept the scales quite flat to aid different grips and the fact that the last real wood work I did was a school 16 years ago :p (I also :censored: up two sets before these)
http://www.christopher.cuckow.dsl.pipex.com/pics/FelleskapT.jpghttp://www.christopher.cuckow.dsl.pipex.com/pics/FelleskapB.jpg

And Trond, don't hold your breath on the sheath I currently have no leather, thread, needles, palm, idea, if you get my drift!

[keith_beef]

Really nice photo, and a very good choice of backgroundfor the wood you used.


Keith.

[Trond]

I deliberately kept the scales quite flat to aid different grips and the fact that the last real wood work I did was a school 16 years ago :p (I also :censored: up two sets before these)


And Trond, don't hold your breath on the sheath I currently have no leather, thread, needles, palm, idea, if you get my drift!

Wel those piccies are really great! Now i want you to lay the knife flat, and take the pic right down so that i can see the shape of the knife properly :D

Oh and i have leather, I have thread, I have Needles, I do not know what palm is, but i do however hav an idea!:D

[Ophidian]

Yes, must say that looks nice. I made a mess of my birch handles so have used some wallnut from a 200 year old gun stock. Still lots of shaping to do. I am going to aim for a handle somewhere inbetween that of my Greg Lightfoot Pitbul (#20 of only 25 made) and my Junglee Hattori Fi###ter which has probably one of the best feeling handles you will ever find.

[Trond]

Yes, must say that looks nice. I made a mess of my birch handles so have used some wallnut from a 200 year old gun stock. Still lots of shaping to do. I am going to aim for a handle somewhere inbetween that of my Greg Lightfoot Pitbul (#20 of only 25 made) and my Junglee Hattori Fi###ter which has probably one of the best feeling handles you will ever find.
Hello Crock;)
The one your holding looks smoothe, Id go for that one if id make it.

I can see that you have a lot left to do on it :D
I think at least one hour of work on the shaping and another one on the finnish, so get buissy mate, and put up some piccies of the finnished knife tomorrow :D

[Kevin]

Christopher..excellant job. :biggthump

[jbaron]

chris thats really good!!!!

[clcuckow]

Thanks all for the +ve feedback. Here is the top shot that Trond asked for.

http://www.christopher.cuckow.dsl.pipex.com/pics/FelleskapTop.jpg

[Cool]

Awesome Christopher!

[clcuckow]

What do you think of the Sheath ;)?
http://www.christopher.cuckow.dsl.pipex.com/pics/Sheath.jpg

[Colin KC]

Hmmmm:confused:;)

[clcuckow]

On the sheath front any ideas?

I was planing on having a stab at a neck sheath with a holder for a fire steal but a 7 oz I think it maybe a bit heavy. I like the ability to shove a 'neck' sheath inside my jacket so it does not snag or make it uncomfortable to sit.

Bear in mind that the I have very limited leatherwork experience (basically amounting to cutting out a couple of tongs from old boots to make a wiresaw case) and at the moment have no leatherworking tools.

[Trond]

Wel, now Christopher has finished his, what about all the other 359? You need to get your fingers out of your a :censored: e and start working, i could have made them all by now :D
C`m on people tell me what is your status?

[keith_beef]

Wel, now Christopher has finished his, what about all the other 359? You need to get your fingers out of your a :censored: e and start working, i could have made them all by now :D
C`m on people tell me what is your status?

I've got a chunk of holly more or less the right size. Now I need to trim it to be just over size, and then saw it down the middle into the two scales.

Made the mosaic pins, cut a little off the end last night to make sure the resin had set properly.

I don't have a piece of tube for the thong yet (oops... I said that word again). Maybe I'll leave it unlined.

Just got to dig out my fibre spacer sheets and set to work. Maybe Monday; I'm taking a day off work for the central heating boiler's annual inspection.


.

[Trond]

I've got a chunk of holly more or less the right size. Now I need to trim it to be just over size, and then saw it down the middle into the two scales.

Made the mosaic pins, cut a little off the end last night to make sure the resin had set properly.

I don't have a piece of tube for the thong yet (oops... I said that word again). Maybe I'll leave it unlined.

Just got to dig out my fibre spacer sheets and set to work. Maybe Monday; I'm taking a day off work for the central heating boiler's annual inspection.


.

Goody goody keith, i guess i wil see the pic of the assembled parts on monday then? You know, one hour away from here wouldnt hurt:D you might even be finished by thuesday night? Are you really going to use holly? Imo it is a litle boring, no pattern just white, that is why they called it bone three over here 50 years ago;)

[keith_beef]

Goody goody keith, i guess i wil see the pic of the assembled parts on monday then? You know, one hour away from here wouldnt hurt:D you might even be finished by thuesday night? Are you really going to use holly? Imo it is a litle boring, no pattern just white, that is why they called it bone three over here 50 years ago;)

I finished a ring in holly last night. Soaked in linseed oil under a partial vacuum for three days, left to dry for two days, then last night I buffed it with beeswax.

There is a subtle pattern to it.


.

[Trond]

Okay then :D i give up, if it turns up nice nothing is better than that :)

[Jon]

Yippeeee

wood arrived this morning
slabs are cut
holes are drilled
glue it tommorow
start shapeing Tuesday

It's all going too well .............

I would put smileys in here but they seem to be having a day off. They must be working on their Felleskaps.

Jon.

[Jon]

The slabs are glued on and I'm trying to not get araldite on the computer keyboard.

Trond, I think you must have somehow sold blades to the 359 quietest, shyest knivemakers in the world. :)

Jon.

[Trond]

Jon me to, i have glued walruss slabs and pins today, made the blade yesterday :D

[clcuckow]

Got chance to use mine at the weekend (only in the garden though :( ).

Trond its a great cutter!

It made short work of some oak(almost to short, a hot knife through butter springs to mind) destined to be a spoon did not try any baton work though as I could not bring myself to whacking it yet!

[Trond]

Got chance to use mine at the weekend (only in the garden though :( ).

Trond its a great cutter!

It made short work of some oak(almost to short, a hot knife through butter springs to mind) destined to be a spoon did not try any baton work though as I could not bring myself to whacking it yet!

Whacking it ? :yikes: I hope you do not do that my friend:)
I tried mine to,on my finger, and it cut like warm knife trough butter, :D

[clcuckow]

Whacking it ? :yikes: I hope you do not do that my friend:)
I tried mine to,on my finger, and it cut like warm knife trough butter, :D

Know what you mean, I cut the end of my thumb almost to the bone and ended up have it to super-glue it back together! :D

[Jon]

Trond, the walrus slabs will look fantastic, I can't wait to see how they turn out. :)

Jon.

[keith_beef]

I think I ned to get a scrollsaw or a bandsaw.....

Cutting holly is hard work. Sanding it to try to get it flat is hard, too...

Still, I got the slabs cut, and got the space and slab glued to one side, and drilled out that one for the pins and thong (there's that word again) hole....


KKK.

[Trond]

SELLESKAPSKNIV

Here it is My felleskap, it has still left to do the final polishing on both blade and handle, I had some trouble getting the hole round, I did not quite manage that, but it is not that bad either :)
Used a water tube, and mosaic pins and walruss slabs.

I am not sure if i am going to make a sheath like collin described, or if i am going to make a Noggin sheath, any suggestions?

[keith_beef]

Got the space on the other side last night...

Still got to glue the other slab, though. Then drill again and put in the pings. Oh and the thong hole :)


KKK.

[stonehard]

very pretty Trond. Dave Barker has made me a great knife with a Noggin type sheath. only trouble is its almost impossible to get the knife out one handed.

[Dave Barker]

very pretty Trond. Dave Barker has made me a great knife with a Noggin type sheath. only trouble is its almost impossible to get the knife out one handed.

The sheath will loosen in time.

trond will tell you the same ( i hope) butif you listen carefully then you put the knife in you will hear a suck or a click as the knife locks ito place. the sheath will relax in time but will always sit in the sheath due to the lock.

Most people with scandi knives prefer to take them out 2 handed due to the fact that there is no strapp or clip to hold them in place. If you want me to make a looser one then send it back and I'll do it for you. I wouldn't reccommend it though. Trond? commens please!

[Ophidian]

Just to say that I have the slabs on mine and the pins in place. Sanding and fileing Walnut by hand is bl##dy hard work :rolleyes:

I can't post any pictures up because I can't delete my old ones :mad:

[Dave Barker]

Just to say that I have the slabs on mine and the pins in place. Sanding and fileing Walnut by hand is bl##dy hard work :rolleyes:

:mad:


I know. You shold try african ebony.! :censored:

[Grahams]

Just received the Felleskap, it's so nice Trond stamped his name twice :). So I'm trying to design the slabs, think I might go for Yew, still tempted by Curly Birch though. It would make a lovelly paper wieght as it is :wink:

and so it begins...

[clcuckow]

Yours is stamped twice and on mine you can hardily see what it says :(

[Dave Barker]

Just received the Felleskap, it's so nice Trond stamped his name twice :). So I'm trying to design the slabs, think I might go for Yew, still tempted by Curly Birch though. It would make a lovelly paper wieght as it is :wink:

and so it begins...

Welcome to the slippery slope to destruction and to an addiction worse than any drug. The addiction is called making knives and the source of it is.... RIGHT HERE ON THE FORUM

[Grahams]

Stamped twice, roughly in the same place :) , but it is a lovely. I'll stop waving it around the dog is frightened.

[Jon]

The slabs are on and the sanding has begun.

Gently this time cos I phoobarred it last time, and the slabs are glued this time so there is no going back.

This wood is so oily that I have to stop sanding and wire-brush the sandpaper every two minutes. It gets gummed up really fast.

Is it cheating to leave the pins out until the sanding is done ? My plan was that I could cut them to the right length after, but I think it was a mistake now.

smileys aren't working again.
Jon

[Trond]

The slabs are on and the sanding has begun.

Gently this time cos I phoobarred it last time, and the slabs are glued this time so there is no going back.

This wood is so oily that I have to stop sanding and wire-brush the sandpaper every two minutes. It gets gummed up really fast.

Is it cheating to leave the pins out until the sanding is done ? My plan was that I could cut them to the right length after, but I think it was a mistake now.

smileys aren't working again.
Jon

:D
It is not cheating, but it is impossible to do it that way, cause you have to sand them along with the slabs. What slabs are you using? Pokkenholdt? ive tried it once, and after all the ****ing hard work with the sanding it gives the greatest finnish if you sand it to 1500-2000 grit and polish with a cotton cloth
Good luck my friend!

AS for the knife is hard in the sheath, that is a quality sign, and if it plops into place youve got yourself a "mercedes sheath" :D

[Trond]

Got the space on the other side last night...

Still got to glue the other slab, though. Then drill again and put in the pings. Oh and the thong hole :)


KKK.

Have you beene talking with dave about thongs again? :D

[Jon]

:D
It is not cheating, but it is impossible to do it that way, cause you have to sand them along with the slabs. What slabs are you using? Pokkenholdt? ive tried it once, and after all the ****ing hard work with the sanding it gives the greatest finnish if you sand it to 1500-2000 grit and polish with a cotton cloth
Good luck my friend!

:D

I'm glad to hear that I did it the right way round, I almost left the pins in after the glueing, but used nuts and bolts in their place to keep everything lined up. Messy business this glueing, epoxy on the bits I want to stick, and vaseline on the bits I don't want to stick ( ie the pins and the blade). Just call me Paranoid.

The wood is Thuya Burl, very dark brown and swirly, smells nice too. What does Pokkenholdt look like ? I'll have to try it on the next project.

As for finish I have 1500 grit and a tin of Danish oil. But I seem to remember Dave B. saying that Danish can dull the colours, so maybe I'll have to do some more shoping ! Is 1500 grit fine enough or do I need to hunt out something finer ?

The slabs are roughly shaped at the moment, rasp and 60 grit paper so it looks very ordinary at the moment. But I love the thought that as I use finer and finer sandpaper gradualy this scrappy looking piece of wood will start to look good, very good and will end up beautiful and shiny. Nothing to do with me, just the pattern waiting to come out.

You lot are responsible for getting me started in all this :)

Thank you.

Jon.

[Grahams]

Alot of you probably know this, Axminster sell brass tubes (use for the Thong hole :p ). Anyway link below.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=PT120

[Trond]

I'm glad to hear that I did it the right way round, I almost left the pins in after the glueing, but used nuts and bolts in their place to keep everything lined up. Messy business this glueing, epoxy on the bits I want to stick, and vaseline on the bits I don't want to stick ( ie the pins and the blade). Just call me Paranoid.

The wood is Thuya Burl, very dark brown and swirly, smells nice too. What does Pokkenholdt look like ? I'll have to try it on the next project.

As for finish I have 1500 grit and a tin of Danish oil. But I seem to remember Dave B. saying that Danish can dull the colours, so maybe I'll have to do some more shoping ! Is 1500 grit fine enough or do I need to hunt out something finer ?



Jon.
I cannot explain what it look like,it is very oily and very hard and very heavy :)
1500 grit is just fine, be careful with that tuja, wear mouth and nose protection when you work with it, it is not healthy to inhale that wood. Otherwice it is a great looking material.
Keep it up!

[Jon]

be careful with that tuja, wear mouth and nose protection when you work with it, it is not healthy to inhale that wood. Otherwice it is a great looking material.
Keep it up!

NOW you tell me to wear protection. cough cough.

Jon.

[Trond]

I know Collin made a tutorial for sheath making earlier, here`s my contribution, with a tutorial to make a Noggin sheath for the felleskap Go to:
http://www.kniv.net/Felleskap%20sheath.htm

Oh and here is a preview:
http://kniv.net/images/12.12.0_046.jpg

[Jon]

Good days, Bad days.

Yesterday was a good day the slabs are shaped and smooth, they look great. Next job would be sorting out the pins and then oil the handle.

Today .........
There are very faint lines associated with one of the pin holes, I think they are cracks in the wood.

also

The first inch nearest the blade of both slabs have managed to lift themself off the tang, the rest seems ok. I can see daylight through the gap. I guess the wood is warping.

I think to myself this is my first knife project, it will have flaws, live with it and learn so the next is better. This is the second go at this handle and so this time it stays on "warts and all". But I would like to make sure the knife won't come apart.

suggestions warmly welcomed.

Jon. (with bottom lip stuck out)

[Trond]

Jon rule nr 1, the wood has to be very dry, 8% humidy no more, 2 the whole tang on the blade has to glued to the slabs, 3 glue the pins when you are gluing the slabs

[clcuckow]

Jon, mine split away on one side at the front so I used super glue and capillary action when a finished it you have to know it was there to see it. I also had a thin split at the lanyard hole, again super glue into the split before finished with the wet and dry. After the oiling again you need to know its there to see it, but I did use a dark wood.

[Jon]

Trond.
I think you are right, the wood may indeed not be dry enough. I think it is a fresh batch just delivered to the supplier. How do I tell when it is ready ? Do I have to buy one of those humidity testing gadgets ?

Christopher.
Super glue sounds like a very good idea. I'll wait a week or so to see if the wood stops moving and then give it a go.

Jon.

[Trond]

Jon if the wood is fresh, you might be in for a big disapointment, cause that can really warp.
If you buy from a place you trust, you can ask them the humidity content.
Anyway this is what i allways do when i get new materials. I split them, glue the end of them, and put them in my livingroom for a couple of weeks. It is importent to dry them standing up, to allow the moist to get out on all sides to awoid warping

[Jon]

You would think that putting a bit of wood on a bit of metal would be straight forward. :rolleyes: But if it was easy I don't think it would have half the attraction. :)

The wood came from a supplier that is well spoken of here. When it arrived it was covered in wax, I assumed that was to stop it drying any more and splitting. So the first job would be to get the wax off ?

Jon

[Dave Barker]

You would think that putting a bit of wood on a bit of metal would be straight forward. :rolleyes: But if it was easy I don't think it would have half the attraction. :)

The wood came from a supplier that is well spoken of here. When it arrived it was covered in wax, I assumed that was to stop it drying any more and splitting. So the first job would be to get the wax off ?

Jon
Was it craft supply Jon?

Their exotic hardwoods are always relatively wet. I got some stuff back from Trond a month ago ( he very nicely cut it up for me) It was wet as hell inside, but after a month of it standing in the living room and being turned every day it looks ok, no splits or checking yet.

I would suggest going to a knife supplies shop for hardwood ( like briza for example).

pokkenholt by the way is known as ligum Vitae. Pokkenholt is the noggin and German name for it. It is possible the worlds hardest wood and a real shiote to work.

[PS_Bond]

I just wrecked a load of plum wood - cut it into useful lengths, waxed the ends, left it in the workshop. No problem so far... Put the dehumidifier in the workshop to deal with a leak and every log split along the grain within 48 hours. NOT happy. Ah well, I have some more in the shed drying more slowly. Still, the rest of the wood in the shop is probably nice and dry as a result (and hasn't split).

Craft Supplies do both part seasoned & kiln dried - are you referring to the PS, Dave?

Just gathered some holly oak logs and a nice lump of ash from the park next door - they dump all of their prunings on a big bonfire; if I'm quick enough I can get out with my folding saw and lop some nice chunks. Doesn't half get some odd looks! Now, if only I can persuade them to grow tropical hardwoods... :D

[Ophidian]

The walnut I’ve used on mine is over 200 years old so I recon it is well seasoned by now :approve: …came from an old gun stock.

[Jon]

No it wasn't Craft Supplies it was Axminster. Ironicaly the first piece, the one that I messed up, came from Brisa. Thinking back on it that first piece was far less oily, it didn't clog up sandpaper and rasps, the sawdust was dust not playdough (well almost) like this second bit.

SWMBO is not going to be keen on bits of wood in her living room, hhmmm I need a plan.

Jon

[boaty]

SWMBO is not going to be keen on bits of wood in her living room, hhmmm I need a plan.


Nah, you just need your own office. Even my smelly rowing kit gets dried on my office radiator :yikes:

[Dave Barker]

No it wasn't Craft Supplies it was Axminster. Ironicaly the first piece, the one that I messed up, came from Brisa. Thinking back on it that first piece was far less oily, it didn't clog up sandpaper and rasps, the sawdust was dust not playdough (well almost) like this second bit.

SWMBO is not going to be keen on bits of wood in her living room, hhmmm I need a plan.

Jon


Just put them there and if she asks tell her to mind her own!

if you do this then remember... never turn your back to her again... she'll stab you with your own fellesskap!

[Jon]

Maybe I'll just hide them under the sofa along with the pizza crusts and lost Scrabble pieces. :)

Jon

[keith_beef]

Maybe I'll just hide them under the sofa along with the pizza crusts and lost Scrabble pieces. :)

Jon

Those "lost" scrabble pieces....

You're sitting on the sofa, playing scrabble, you "accidentally" drop your pieces, and get down on the floor to pick them up, and "oh, look at that! I can put down 'zoophyte'"... Or is it 'pepperoni and cheese with extra mold'?

Who says miracles no longer happen?


KKK.

[Jon]

Scrabble, I tried mnandi the other day, but she wasn't having it. "Its not in the book". Ah well, so much for expanding my mind. :)

Jon

[Jon]

On the scrabble theme here is a list of alternative explainations for non knifers. I spent most of yesterday ill in bed, it shows I had too much time on my hands.

Tang
The sound your head makes when SWMBO bounces a frying pan off it.

Ricasso
A form of pasta

Choil
Cross between chore and toil. result of a bad career choice.

Clip Point
collect a token from a magazine.

Hidden Tang
SWMBO closes the curtains first ......

Tapered Tang
In mid swing she spots the flowers and chocolate.

Rat Tail Tang
SWMBO thinks you may have been unfaithful

Full Tang
SWMBO knows you have been unfaithful

Tactical
well timed apology

Survival
begging for your life after a mis-timed apology



Jon.

[Dave Barker]

On the scrabble theme here is a list of alternative explainations for non knifers. I spent most of yesterday ill in bed, it shows I had too much time on my hands.

Tang
The sound your head makes when SWMBO bounces a frying pan off it.

Ricasso
A form of pasta

Choil
Cross between chore and toil. result of a bad career choice.

Clip Point
collect a token from a magazine.

Hidden Tang
SWMBO closes the curtains first ......

Tapered Tang
In mid swing she spots the flowers and chocolate.

Rat Tail Tang
SWMBO thinks you may have been unfaithful

Full Tang
SWMBO knows you have been unfaithful

Tactical
well timed apology

Survival
begging for your life after a mis-timed apology



Jon.


I think it would be more interesting reading to replace the word TANG.. with THONG!!

I mean I'd rather see a tapered thong than feel the frying pan smack into my head!

[Jon]

Back to more pressing matters. Namely this wood that is trying to separate itself from the blade. I'm trying to descide what to do about it, these seem to be my options :

1.
Let nature take its course and see how bad it gets. When the movement stops maybe I can fill the gap with superglue.

2
Clamp the wood down hard onto the tang and leave it there for several weeks while it drys out. Maybe it will dry "straight". But is it more likely to just crack itself.

3
Seal the wood again so that it does not lose any more moisture. If I do the finishing will it stop things getting worse ? Probably end up the same just more slowly.

4
Rip the wood off and start again. Maybe I should buy some Micarta ! No, this wood looks too good.

Any suggestions ?
How do You deal with badly warping scales ?

Jon.

[PS_Bond]

SWMBO appreciated those definitions :D

[Dave Barker]

Back to more pressing matters. Namely this wood that is trying to separate itself from the blade. I'm trying to descide what to do about it, these seem to be my options :

1.
Let nature take its course and see how bad it gets. When the movement stops maybe I can fill the gap with superglue.

2
Clamp the wood down hard onto the tang and leave it there for several weeks while it drys out. Maybe it will dry "straight". But is it more likely to just crack itself.

3
Seal the wood again so that it does not lose any more moisture. If I do the finishing will it stop things getting worse ? Probably end up the same just more slowly.

4
Rip the wood off and start again. Maybe I should buy some Micarta ! No, this wood looks too good.

Any suggestions ?
How do You deal with badly warping scales ?

Jon.

I don't use scales, but would suggest that once the wrping has started then there is little you can do to stop it-

i think i'd be inclined to rip em off buy some more and start again.. You'll only end up doing it at a later date anyway!

[PS_Bond]

I'd reluctantly agree (not reluctant to agree with Dave, just - oh, never mind). Get the scales off. If you've used epoxy, soften it in the oven first; about 100C should do it - unless it is JB Weld - and is cool enough not to affect the temper.

[Jon]

B*gger !

I'll go and put the oven on then.

Jon.

[clcuckow]

Bad look Jon :( I just hope mine stays stable.

[Ophidian]

I have still got quite a bit of work to do shaping and profiling the handle.

I built up the mosaic pins after the tubes where already in the handle…yes I know it is not the recommended method but it worked for me.

There is already a 6mm hole in the steel tang for a lanyard but I will put in a bigger hole, probably 8 –10 mm once I have decided which tube to use. I guess it would be best to drill the hole with the correct size drill straight away (rather than work through the smaller sizes) so as not to risk a smaller drill pulling me off course due to the existing hole, which is a bit too near the edge.

Not had any cracking or warping… but then the walnut is very old.

For a first attempt, I’m actually quite please with the way it is going.

[Jon]

Ha :)

Sometimes it pays to listen to SWMBO.

Me. These scales are warping, it's a disaster.

SWMBO. Why are they warping ?

Me. As the wood dries out it bends.

SWMBO. So why do you keep it in a warm dry house ? PUT IT IN THE COLD DAMP SHED.

Put oil on the blade to protect it, leave it in the shed for a few days and .....
And as if by magic the slabs have straightened up and now you would never guess. So the knife has to live in the shed for quite a while now so it gets a chance to dry out gradually. This may just be a VERY clever plan by SWMBO to get it out of her house.

Superglue on the little cracks worked a treat as well. Thanks for that suggestion.

So I put the mosaic pins in quick before it changed its mind. The pins ended up shorter than I would like, don't know if that was poor measuring, poor cutting or excesive sanding to smooth the ends. Poor workmanship thats for sure. Ah well, pretend they were meant to be reccecced.

The saga goes on, in some ways I'll be sad when it is finished.

Jon. :)

[dtalbot]

Got the scales sorted for mine at last, hopefully progress soon