PDA

View Full Version : Making a Pouch Sheath



Colin KC
20-11-03, 04:25 PM
Making a pouch sheath

OK, Trond suggested it, so I’m gonna give it a go;)

First of all, put your knife on the rough side of the leather & mark around the edge/handle section

Then, roll it onto the spine, mark both sides of the blade & handle

Roll it onto the other side & mark the edge/handle again.

Mark a GENEROUS inch outside of these marks & cut out (don’t forget to include a huuuge piece on one side for the belt loop.)

http://www.britishblades.com/photopost/data/508/3sheath1-med.JPG

Gouge (or dremel) along the two marks indicating the spine & the same for the “back” of the handle marks (though not all the way up to what will be the top of the sheath) These are for ease of folding & forming. (remember not to go more than @ half the thickness of the leather)

Dampen in cold water (until the whole face goes dark, no more)

Put in a plastic bag & pop in the fridge

Meanwhile, mask the edge & point of the blade & slip the knife into a plastic bag.

After an hour, remove the leather from the fridge & form around the knife, clamp & leave to dry. (don’t use sharp edged materials to clamp it with, mousemat type material is cool)

After it’s dried it should be firmly formed around the blade.

Take the knife from the pouch & remove the bag, place back in &draw once again around the edge on the side that will be the front of the sheath (hopefully it should be in the same place as the first line, though it prolly won’t be)

Cut out a 1” strip of leather the same shape as the edge (all the way up to the top of the handle is best) & another the same length as the handle, or even two if the pouch is a small one (an important point to make here is, if there is a shape handle or “guard” the highest point should be the shape to aim for (don’t follow the contours)

Lay the knife back in the pouch & position the strips in place (the short one first (on the front flap) then the long one, then a short one if present.

The short strips should be “feathered” to match the shape of the sheath (transition of handle to blade)

Make sure the whole thing is secure(the blade moves “fractionally” but won’t fall out)

Then glue the strips in place (to the front flap only)

When the glue has dried, dampen the long flap (belt loop bit) fold in place & clamp

Wait until the belt loop has dried, trim the whole sheath to shape (belt loop included) (you may want to “feather” the end of the belt loop to avoid a “step” from it to the pouch)

Stitch the belt loop (if the belt loop will occupy the same stitching line as the pouch, leave that bit unstitched, just a dab of glue to hold it in place)

http://www.britishblades.com/photopost/data/508/3Pouch-med.JPG

For stitching, I use a Dremel drill stand & a 1mm drill bit, then stitch from both sides.

There are many ways to ensure correct stitching spacing, but the important thing is (DO NOT DO IT BY EYE!!!) ‘cos it’ll look wobbly

Place the knife (without plastic bag) back into postion & glue & clamp the whole thing together (at this stage the knife should be tight in the sheath)

When the glue has dried, carefully remove the knife, drill & stitch the remaining bits.

Dampen the sheath again, pop it in the fridge, cover the knife again & push it into the sheath (should slip in quite easily) using a rounded instrument (spoon handle, antler tine, fingers, hairbrush handle) form the pouch to shape around the blade (at this stage I also like to place a piece of hard material the same size as my belt into the loop as well)

Once it has dried, ensure fit of knife (without bag & masking) pop in the oven (lowest heat) until golden brown (not actually, just for a while to heat it through) & add oil/preparation of choice (I use neatsfoot oil & beeswax, 75/25, warmed) plop back in the oven, upside down to drain, remove, buff/polish, “spoon” the edges smooth (a bit of canvas over you spoon works quite well) wax & serve:D

Note: there are prolly better ways to do things, but this is the way I do it, Sandy, Chuck et al, please add notes, corrections, whatever to ensure I don’t send anybody astray

Note to others about to try this: Give it a few days until (hopefully) some kind soul corrects my glaring errors/ adds some helpful hints.


Thanks


Colin

Colin KC
20-11-03, 04:29 PM
I've asked the guys on CKD & BF to critique it for me, so's you don't get led astray;)

http://www.ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18003

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=281026

Dave Barker
21-11-03, 09:15 AM
Colin, wouldn't it work, by sewing and and then wet forming the sheath?

I also wondered about the soaking, Scandi sheaths use warm water, the leather is put in rough side up, and sewn/formed after there are no more bubbles, do you think the same would work here too?

Colin KC
21-11-03, 10:36 AM
Dave,
Whilst I'm sure there is a reason for not soaking the leather in the manner that you suggest, all the expert sheathmakers I've spoken to about it say to just dampen the leather, then mold, definately not to soak it.

& Yes Dave, the sheath is wet formed twice, the first time to get the basic form, then a second time after it has been sewn (which you will see when I have the rest of the pics up on the post;)).

Colin KC
21-11-03, 10:38 AM
.

Dave Barker
21-11-03, 11:10 AM
I wasn't making a negative comment col. I have no clue ( apart from reading the thread) as to how to make such a sheath. i guess there is a bigger difference between scandi and non scandi sheaths.

Might just get meself a felleskap from peders and have a go.....


How thick is the leather you use BTW colin?.

Colin KC
21-11-03, 02:11 PM
8-9 ounces Dave (prolly @ just under 1/8", 3mm)

Dave Barker
21-11-03, 02:13 PM
ever tried with half tanned?

Now that could be fun. it'd be rock hard too!

Colin KC
21-11-03, 02:22 PM
Nah Dave, working with Veg tanned is scary enough for me, let alone trying something new:yikes:

Dave Barker
21-11-03, 02:29 PM
i thought that too until I was convinced to try.

It shrinks more than veg tanned.... so you have to add on for that, but once you work it it gives a great finish and does go literally rock hard. Handy for some big bladed knives. You can harden it even more by filliny the thing with shellack/ethanol mixture. Leave it for about 1-2 minutes and then mt the sheath.

I'm still waiting for you to make me a blade too if i remember rightly!!

Colin KC
21-11-03, 02:41 PM
I'm still waiting for you to make me a blade too if i remember rightly!!


Prolly Dave, I'm sooo far behind & with my workshop being in such a mess:rolleyes: it'll be a while before I get onto anything much at all.

Your best bet is to try & pin me down (oo-err missus) to a promise, then pester the hell out of me (like Wayne does:rolleyes: )

Dave Barker
21-11-03, 02:49 PM
Now THAT i can do....... it's how the baby came along. You know you can pester your way to ANYTHING!! if you are persistant. C'mon then, make me a promise and I'll read it monday. I'm goin ome!

Colin KC
21-11-03, 02:52 PM
Now THAT i can do....... it's how the baby came along. You know you can pester your way to ANYTHING!! if you are persistant. C'mon then, make me a promise and I'll read it monday. I'm goin ome!

OK, PM me with what you want Dave & I'll see what I can do, No promises at this stage tho';)

Colin KC
07-12-03, 08:03 PM
Finished Waynes sheath for his Bushcraft damascus knife, I'll post a better photo tutorial when I do the Trond Woody, but this'll do till then;)

http://www.britishblades.com/photopost/data/508/3Waynesheath-med.JPG

jbaron
07-12-03, 08:19 PM
colin pm me with a price for such a sheath

boaty
08-12-03, 12:47 PM
http://www.britishblades.com/photopost/data/508/3Waynesheath-med.JPG

Hmm, another candidate for "dodgy sofa of the year". Baggy's is probably still in first place though

jbaron
08-12-03, 12:51 PM
Nice sheath colin shame about the sofa :twak:

bagman
08-12-03, 12:56 PM
Hmm, another candidate for "dodgy sofa of the year". Baggy's is probably still in first place though

:lmao: mine has no got extra baby sick as well :yikes: ;)

TAHAWK
01-01-04, 07:28 PM
Great information. Thanks.

helmar4578
05-01-04, 07:41 AM
Colin, my friend---that is a very nice looking sheath! Hope your new year will be the best ever! ----Sandy-----

Colin KC
05-01-04, 08:31 AM
Thanks Sandy, I do like to think that I'm past the butchering phase;)

clcuckow
20-01-04, 11:24 AM
Colin, When you say dremel out, what tool do you use? Is in the engraving ball? Sorry if this is a daft question, I have never done any real leatherwork and I keep putting of getting the stuff to start on a sheath for my Felleskap by saying that I am still researching sheath making and it is still in the Chianti box cardboard sheath at the moment.

Any news on the Felleskap sheath pictorial?

PS_Bond
20-01-04, 12:56 PM
Assuming you mean for the folding lines, I would imagine that the engraving burr (not the diamond one!) would be the sort. Or you could make your own gouge - http://www.homestead.com/beknivessite2/leathergouges.html - quite easy, even without a full forge & anvil :)

MushiSushi
20-01-04, 01:14 PM
:lmao: mine has no got extra baby sick as well :yikes: ;)

Do I detect a cunning plan? "I know how i can get rid of this awful sofa before the boys at BB suggest I grow a handlebar moustache to go with my sofa!" ....... AIM BABY!!! FIRE!!!! ............ "darling? the baby's been sick on the sofa again!"

bagman
20-01-04, 01:30 PM
Do I detect a cunning plan? "I know how i can get rid of this awful sofa before the boys at BB suggest I grow a handlebar moustache to go with my sofa!" ....... AIM BABY!!! FIRE!!!! ............ "darling? the baby's been sick on the sofa again!"

:lmao:

The General
02-02-04, 02:34 PM
The Sheath is even nicer in the flesh!

boaty
02-02-04, 02:44 PM
The Sheath is even nicer in the flesh!

:yikes:

Oh, sorry - I misread that as "the flesh is even nicer in the sheath" :D

Damned dyslexia :rolleyes: