No 14

[handwerker]

This is the last knife I made, way back in May 2005 and the 14th overall:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a273/Supercorsa/Skinner-olive002.jpg
A plain carbonsteel blade and old olive wood.
Since a couple of days I feel sort of an itching in my fingers and it seems I have to make another one

[ggfh666]

What's stopping you? Not the skills, I guess, looking at this one.

[soup_monger]

Nice knife Handwerker. Can you tell me what you used on the Olive wood to get it that colour?
Is it linseed oil?

[handwerker]

No, but I have no workroom of my own. I am doing everything at my parents and in the last months my father regularly went ape****e when a bit of dust wallowed over his elctrical instruments. Strangely he didnt object when I restored his fatheres axe. But since I have to do a lot of work there anyway (my parents being quite old) I am now saying "b..... it" and use the vacc cleaner to absorb most of the dust.

[Jirka_CZ]

Grossartig - Good work Handwerker.
Fit&finish is very nice and the sheath is excelent.
Where can I see your No2->No13 ?

edit: Isn't it Kankaapaa Skiner?

[soup_monger]

Is your treatment of the Olivewood a secret?:rolleyes:

[handwerker]

Treatment is a 50:50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and Balsamterpentine, the handle is soaked for about a week. Then it is airdryed and polished with beeswax.
I cant remeber what brand the blade is, but it was bugger to fit the brass bolster, because the edge is continous. Never again!
I will subsequently make pictures from all my knifes - at least those not given away - because I now own a digital camera and a fast access to the net.

[ZDP-189]

Very nice work!

[soup_monger]

Thanks for the reply Handwerker.
I'm not sure what Balsamterpentine is but I'll try and find out.

Oh..I just did
Sea Pine oil = Pinus Pinaster = Balsamterpentine
Ethereal oil, calming, relaxing.

:D

[handwerker]

If you go to www.dick.biz you will find the possibility to download a pdf about natural finishes. It was mentioned here or at bushcraftuk a couple of days ago.
Excellent read.

[dBu24]

[QUOTE=handwerker]
I cant remeber what brand the blade is, but it was bugger to fit the brass bolster, because the edge is continous. Never again!
/QUOTE]


Something doesn't sit right there: the Kankanpaa blades are not ground as you describe. This is more true of Lauri Blades ( and no big deal to fit the tang if you get the right one)

The brass bolster in the pic is a bit too forward and almost covering the Kankanpaa logo and that is why the blade looks as if ground continuosly thru to the tang.


David

[seved]

Very nice hawerker:D

seved

[Underhay]

That is a beautiful knife :)
Fit, finish and sheath look superb!

[Lord Farquhar]

Looks pretty awsome from here.

[soup_monger]

:biggthumpThanks for the link Handwerker I found the pdf and I'm enjoying the reading.

[handwerker]

[QUOTE=handwerker]
I cant remeber what brand the blade is, but it was bugger to fit the brass bolster, because the edge is continous. Never again!
/QUOTE]


Something doesn't sit right there: the Kankanpaa blades are not ground as you describe. This is more true of Lauri Blades ( and no big deal to fit the tang if you get the right one)

The brass bolster in the pic is a bit too forward and almost covering the Kankanpaa logo and that is why the blade looks as if ground continuosly thru to the tang.


David


It probably is a Lauri and the logo is partly covered because I was forever trying to file the blade's parts above and below the tang up to one level to have them fit exactly against the bolster. Because I always failed on one side or the other there is a bit more of the blade removed than necessary. I am dreaming of getting sort of two pieces of heat-treated steel who sit exactly< opposite each other and work as a stop for the file.

[handwerker]

And here are some more:
Brusletto "Falken" blade on olive wood:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a273/Supercorsa/Knives2005011.jpg
Small utility knife with Helle No 56 (58mm)and cherry wood:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a273/Supercorsa/Knives2005013.jpg
Isakii Jarvenpaa blade with birchhandle and brass bolsters on both end:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a273/Supercorsa/Knives2005004.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a273/Supercorsa/Knives2005005.jpg
Helle No 51 (80mm) blade and cherrywood:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a273/Supercorsa/Knives2005009.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a273/Supercorsa/Knives2005017.jpg
and an unusual sheat:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a273/Supercorsa/Knives2005012.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a273/Supercorsa/Knives2005015.jpg

[dBu24]

[QUOTE=dBu24]


It probably is a Lauri and the logo is partly covered because I was forever trying to file the blade's parts above and below the tang up to one level to have them fit exactly against the bolster. Because I always failed on one side or the other there is a bit more of the blade removed than necessary. I am dreaming of getting sort of two pieces of heat-treated steel who sit exactly< opposite each other and work as a stop for the file.


:huh: I must confess that I still don't understand what the problem is with fitting the bolster to the blade,and I am a bit puzzled as to why you grind away the blade instead of the bolster. If the bolster is ruined, a replacement is easier than an overfiledaway blade. And a bolster, made of relatively softer brass is easier to work on than 58HRc steel.


Now, re. that blade in the original pic, that logo is Kankaanpaa. Lauri blades, at least those I have used, come unmarked.

All the best and nice job displayed here.

David

[handwerker]

Sorry, I explained wrong.
The edge is continous through the ricasso and the lower half of the tang is also ground into an edge. Thats been the problem for me in filing the slot for the bolster.
Then I want the bolster to fit close to both parts of the ricasso, above and below the tang. Therefore these must be filed till they are in one plane. Which is very difficult for me to do without an continous stop to orientate on.
And right until yesterday, when I read this
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?p=255825#post255825
I didn event think of filing in the upper and lower parts of the bolster to get a close fit. I always tried to adjust the blade to the flat surface of the bolster