Mosaic pins

[keith_beef]

Martyn, I saw the thuya burl skinner with mosaic pins that you posted on BushcraftUK.

Very nice work.

How about explaining how you made the pins?


Keith.

[Martyn]

No problem Kieth. It's messy though, and time consuming.

For reference, here's the pins Kieth mentions...

http://www.britishblades.com/pics/first.jpg


Materials:
Some 1/4" outside dia tubing.
Variety of capiliary tubing (or whatever for the innards)
Slow cure epoxy
Epoxy die
rubber or latex tubing with 1/4" inside dia.
small pot for mixing/containing epoxy.
variety of clamps.

somewhere to make a mess.
First you have to decide on your pattern, go to a hardware shop and locate some tubing, I used 1/4" dia nickel silver tube, but brass or anything will do. The nickel silver worked well for me as the walls of the tube were quite thick and so had good mechanical strength (it's the same tubing I used for the thong hole in the above knife).

http://www.britishblades.com/pics/mosaic.jpg

Then you need to find some smaller tubing, I used brass capilary tubing from B&Q - but it's just a question of trial and error cold fitting the pieces so they fit. Try and buy your materials as straight as possible, anything with kinks in, discard as the fit inside the tube needs to be clean and straight.

Then cut your pieces into 10" or 12" lengths and dry fit them, make sure they are clean and straight. These pieces must make a good friction fit to avoid gaps appearing in the mosaic and the straightness ensures continuity of the pattern and correct orientation through the tube. Any twists or kinks will throw the patter off and you wont be able to match the sides and orientate the pin properly in the knife. I cant stress the importance of this enough. If the small inner pins are twisted, even a little, then the mosaic face of the pin will change from one side to the other of the knife handle. Trial and error again.

One everthing is dry fitted you can go to the messy stage. Make sure one end of all the tubes are flat against a surface. Place the rubber or latex tubing over the opposite end. The idea is to use the latex tubing to suck up the epoxy through the mosaic pins - harder than drinking a McDonalds milkshake I assure you. Now at this point I should mention a health warning. I have no idea if there are any toxic fumes given off my the curing epoxy, so you do this at your own risk.

Mix up the (slow cure) epoxy as normal and add a small amount of die. Probably best to experiment, as the die affects the consistency, cure time and hold of the epoxy. It will take a few minutes to suck the epoxy up the tube, so you need to have it fluid enough to last that long. You need to work fast too, once the epoxy starts to cure, that's as far as you get.

Mix your epoxy close to where you are gonna work (mix plenty - enough to do the whole job in one go) and immediately place the end of the tube into a little puddle of it and start to suck on the rubber tube. It'l take some effort, but it *will* climb the tube - even the tiny capiliaries. Keep sucking untill either epoxy bleeds out the top of you pins (visible through the rubber tube) or until it starts to cure, whichever comes first. Clamp the rubber tube to hold the vaccuum. and you're done.

On my first attempt, I managed about 8" of usable mosaic, but results would vary depending on the consistency of your epoxy. Experimentation will bring better success.

[keith_beef]

No problem Kieth. It's messy though, and time consuming.

..snip..
Mix your epoxy close to where you are gonna work (mix plenty - enough to do the whole job in one go) and immediately place the end of the tube into a little puddle of it and start to suck on the rubber tube. It'l take some effort, but it *will* climb the tube - even the tiny capiliaries. Keep sucking untill either epoxy bleeds out the top of you pins (visible through the rubber tube) or until it starts to cure, whichever comes first. Clamp the rubber tube to hold the vaccuum. and you're done.
..snip..


Great, Martyn. Thanks a lot.

I wondered about using a syringe to fill the tubes. Cut the tubes to around 6" lengths and assemble them; block up one end; fill from the top using a syringe and fluid epoxy. This way, you could perhaps use several colours.

What do you think?


Keith.

[Martyn]

Use the syringe to suck rather than push would probably work better, but I'd be interested to hear your results. It would work if you filled the smaller capilliarys individually first (& left to cure), then assembled the full pin and use the above method to fill the gaps.

[Colin KC]

Achully just had an epiphany:yikes: based on what Keith just posted.

How about filling the little tubes first, then assembling & filling the whole with a different colour?


OMG, I think it might work:D

[Colin KC]

:doh: Just read Martyn's post:banghead::rolleyes: nob;)

[Dave Barker]

May I suggest that the epoxy is warmed slightly. Not enough to start curing. If you warm it it becomes more fluid, I did this when I used epoxy for gluing blades.And still do if ... like now :banghead: :banghead: I run out of shellac!

[PS_Bond]

There's a few makers have a hotbox (cardboard box with a 60W lightbulb in it!) for keeping the epoxy fluid prior to mixing it.

[Colin KC]

Be warned though, that heating the epoxy (to thin it) also speeds up cure time, swings & roundabouts;)

[Martyn]

get the 24hr cure stuff and problem solved. If anyone is worried about sucking epoxy fumes, you can get 50ml syringes (like a turkey baster) will a bull nose that would work perfectly. Also, if you get an air buble which forms a dimple of the finished surface, it can be invisibly filled with superglue. I was lucky and didn't get any.

[keith_beef]

Now, I could find out by trial and error, but I would like to find out how to mathemagically determine the OD of the small tubes to fit into the large tube...

Common sense :rolleyes: tells me that I can fit two 5mm OD tubes inside a 10mm ID tube. But to fit three or four inside this 10mm ID tube, what OD small tube do I need?

As I see it, the radius of the small tube needs to be such, that the centres describe a triangle (in the case of three tubes) or a square (in the case of four tubes) or a pentagon (in the case of five tubes), with sides equal to twice the radius of the small tube.

There must be some relationship between the radius of the small tube (r), the radius of the big tube (R), and the number (n) of small tubes that fit in the big tube...

Can anybody help me out, please?

I hope my little drawing makes this clearer...


Keith.

[ugug]

Can anybody help me out, please?

errr.. buy your 'pre-calculated geometry' mosaic pins from brisa? :p

[keith_beef]

errr.. buy your 'pre-calculated geometry' mosaic pins from brisa? :p


Thanks.

Got any more helpful hints ike that?

Keep 'em to yourself :p ;)


Keith.

[PS_Bond]

Keith -

For the 3 tube example, you want the distance from the centre of the small tubes to the centre of the circle. Call it x...

x = r/sin(30 degrees)
Add r on to x and you have the internal radius of the large circle.

I *think* this is scalable for other shapes (square - 360/(2*4) degrees, pentagon 720/(2*5)), but I'm not sure - working on building a port of ucLinux just now, so a bit distracted.

[Dave Barker]

Another flash git!

[keith_beef]

Keith -

For the 3 tube example, you want the distance from the centre of the small tubes to the centre of the circle. Call it x...

x = r/sin(30 degrees)
Add r on to x and you have the internal radius of the large circle.

I *think* this is scalable for other shapes (square - 360/(2*4) degrees, pentagon 720/(2*5)), but I'm not sure - working on building a port of ucLinux just now, so a bit distracted.

That sounds very reasonable. Thanks, Peter. You've certainly cleared up my thinking for me.

But it looks to me like there's a relationship to the internal angles of the polygon, on whose corners the small circles are centred.
I think your figure for the pentagon is perhaps wrong. If the formula for finding the total internal angles of a polygon is (n-2)×180 it would be a figure of 540/(2×5) for a pentagon, and 720/(2×6) for a hexagon.

I think, then, that when n is the number of circles to place, we get:
x = r / (sin (((n-2)×180) / (2×n)) )

Are you building an Ogg player?

Keith.

[bagman]

Another flash git!

:lmao: he just made it up anyway ;)

[PS_Bond]

I think your figure for the pentagon is perhaps wrong. If the formula for finding the total internal angles of a polygon is (n-2)×180 it would be a figure of 540/(2×5) for a pentagon, and 720/(2×6) for a hexagon.


Yes, that's entirely possible - was a guesstimate without checking facts first.

Not an Ogg player... The support infrastructure for a digital video broadcast distribution backplane... On an architecture that hasn't been properly ported yet. Oww.

Ogg player might be more fun.

[keith_beef]

Yes, that's entirely possible - was a guesstimate without checking facts first.

Not an Ogg player... The support infrastructure for a digital video broadcast distribution backplane... On an architecture that hasn't been properly ported yet. Oww.

Ogg player might be more fun.


Isn't Linux wonderful? Runs on almost anything with a microcontroller or a CPU... or at least it looks that way some days.

I'd love to replace my old Psion Organiser II with a Sharp Zaurus.

I still don't understand why WinCE ever saw the light of day.


Keith.

[shing]

The general formula for the ratio of radi for big tube and small tubes that fit inside it is:

R/(2+1(1/sin(360/2n))-1 = r

where R is the radius of the large tube, n is the number of tubes that fit into the large tube and r is the radius of the small tubes.

[shing]

sorry it should be

R/((2+1(1/sin(360/2n))-1) = r

[Colin KC]

Shing, Peter, Keith.

Why not just have as much tube/pins as poss & experiment? All this math does my head in:rolleyes:;)

[Martyn]

Just shove em in untill it fits/looks right.

[keith_beef]

Shing, Peter, Keith.

Why not just have as much tube/pins as poss & experiment? All this math does my head in:rolleyes:;)

So I can work out exactly what I should be looking for. Ever tried doing this in a shop, with 3ft long pieces of 2mm OD tube inside 5mm ID tube?

"Oy! Wotchoo doin'? You'll ave sobody's eye out!".


Then again, we might just be showing off :p

Keith.

[Martyn]

So I can work out exactly what I should be looking for. Ever tried doing this in a shop, with 3ft long pieces of 2mm OD tube inside 5mm ID tube?


Ya big gerl, that wat I did.... 'course, I grew a beard and wore a wooly hat first. ;) :) :D

[Dave Barker]

That sounds very reasonable. Thanks, Peter. You've certainly cleared up my thinking for me.

But it looks to me like there's a relationship to the internal angles of the polygon, on whose corners the small circles are centred.
I think your figure for the pentagon is perhaps wrong. If the formula for finding the total internal angles of a polygon is (n-2)×180 it would be a figure of 540/(2×5) for a pentagon, and 720/(2×6) for a hexagon.

I think, then, that when n is the number of circles to place, we get:
x = r / (sin (((n-2)×180) / (2×n)) )

Are you building an Ogg player?

Keith.

I don't believe it!!!! there are three of em and they're at it again. whay can't they just go by trial and error like the rest of us.? :twak:

[PS_Bond]

Measure twice, cut once :D

[Dave Barker]

Measure twice, cut once :D

**** it up and start again... my sentiments exactly... Crickey by the time they have worked it all out they could have been finished.

[keith_beef]

Measure twice, cut once :D

Measure seven times, cut once!

Shing, the formula that you posted works just fine, but I think it can be simplified to:

r = R / ( 1 + ( 1 / sin(360/2n) ) )


Keith.

[shing]

You're right Keith. sin(360/2n) can also be written as sin(180/n).

Just get a lot of metal and saw blades!

[PS_Bond]

**** it up and start again...

Hammer to fit :)

[bagman]

Measure twice, cut once :D

and I still get the curtain poles wrong :rolleyes: :D

[keith_beef]

I think I'll finally get around to mixing up the resin tonight or tomorrow.
I bought some art resin, and a tube of pigment, a little while ago.

It's German, but I can't remember the manufacturer's name. Two pots, that need to be mixed 100:40 by weight.

Now, if I get the measurements a bit wrong, is this likely to change the final hardness and toughness, or will it just vary the curing time?


Keith.

[keith_beef]

Right, I just filled up two tubes with black pigmented resin.
I had another look on the pack, and what I bought was described as "artist's free-flowing coating resin". It is almost completely colourless when mixed (very slight yellowish tinge), and is not at all viscous.

I used a slightly different method of filling.

I took a wine cork, put the small tubes inside the big tube, then pushed the end of the bif tube about 1/4" into the cork. Then, I slightly pinched the big tube with a Wolfcraft locking grip to set the small tubes in position, then withdrew from the cork.

I fitted a 3/4" length of home brew siphon tube (transparent, flexible, maybe polypropylene?) over the end of the brass tube. On the other end of the flexible tube, I screwed a 20ml BEcton Dickinson syringe that I bought from the apothecary.

I dipped the end of the brass into the resin, and used the syringe to suck up, push down a little, and suck up some more.

Then, I pressed the brass tube into the cork, to seal up the end, and pushed the syringe, hoping that the pressure would help get rid of any little bubbles.

Well, the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and the proof of the pins will be in cutting, in a few days' time.

Really I should have worked out the volume of resin I needed, and perhaps I should have used a syringe to measure it.

Trying to pour 10g of resin from an 815g can, and 4g of hardener from a 250g can is not easy...


Keith.

[Martyn]

Be interested to know how this resin works Keith, your method sounds good, less Heath-Robinson than mine (not to mention safer). I'm betting getting the right resin is the key to making this easy. ;)

[keith_beef]

Be interested to know how this resin works Keith, your method sounds good, less Heath-Robinson than mine (not to mention safer). I'm betting getting the right resin is the key to making this easy. ;)

I think I either got the wrong sort of resin, or I got the misxture wrong.

I rather think it's the wrong resin, since I mixed up two batches, and in the second, I deliberately added a bit more hardener that the first time, and less dye.... but both batches are gooey when I cut the tube, after nearly three weeks of curing at 22°C. Since this was "pouring" resin, I wonder if it needs to be exposed to air for it to harden correctly.

Tonight, I had another go, using standard Araldite, diluted a little bit with 90° ethanol, and dyed black. This seems to be stiffer, after two hours, than the previous attempts.


Keith.

[Martyn]

Ahhhhh. I wonder how it'd work if ya just went for warming it - no dilution at all? I found even adding small amounts of epoxy dye, it softened the set of the resin.

[Colin KC]

It will do Boss, Keith, what you want is VERY small amounts of polyester pigments (see my forthcoming, linen McArta;) & rag McArta)

If'n you want black, take a trip to the nearest laser printer, nick the cartridge & empty outr all the carbon black, that don' mess with your epoxy set;)


What we really need is Mushy:(:)

[Dave Barker]

It will do Boss, Keith, what you want is VERY small amounts of polyester pigments (see my forthcoming, linen McArta;) & rag McArta)

If'n you want black, take a trip to the nearest laser printer, nick the cartridge & empty outr all the carbon black, that don' mess with your epoxy set;)


What we really need is Mushy:(:)

he still got the arsehole woth us here then?

Maybe we should start a bring back mushy thread!

[keith_beef]

It will do Boss, Keith, what you want is VERY small amounts of polyester pigments (see my forthcoming, linen McArta;) & rag McArta)

If'n you want black, take a trip to the nearest laser printer, nick the cartridge & empty outr all the carbon black, that don' mess with your epoxy set;)



Well, this morning it was set a bit better in the excess that I left in the mixing tub. Not rock hard, but then I never find it to be rock hard after the 15 hours stated on the packaging. I always find it takes a week or more to reach maximum hardness.

I might have a go at making some lamp black, if I find that ti's the pigment that's softening the resin. That's OK for black, but how could I do blue or red?



What we really need is Mushy:(:)

Yes. :( Shame he's not around.

Keith.

[Colin KC]

Mushy is keeping an eye on us & he DOES post occasionally:)

[PS_Bond]

Mushy is keeping an eye on us & he DOES post occasionally:)

Here's the resin (etc.) supplier he recommended a while back...

http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Catalogue__PIGMENT_PASTES_11.html

[keith_beef]

I cut the pin open last night. One of the small tubes is ever so slightly away from the wall of the large tube, but at leath the resin set! It's not rock hard; it gives ever so slightly... but maybe this will make it ever so slightly more resilient.

I wonder, if I try ever so slightly harder, I might be able to use the epression "ever so slightly" ever so slightly more often...

I didn't get a lot of sleep last night. And now I'm getting silly.


.

[keith_beef]

I cut the pin open last night. One of the small tubes is ever so slightly away from the wall of the large tube, but at leath the resin set! It's not rock hard; it gives ever so slightly... but maybe this will make it ever so slightly more resilient.

I wonder, if I try ever so slightly harder, I might be able to use the epression "ever so slightly" ever so slightly more often...

I didn't get a lot of sleep last night. And now I'm getting silly.


.


And here it is, for your delectation (or otherwise)...
http://perso.club-internet.fr/klrhodes/images/MosaicPins/homemade_4_brass_resized.jpg

I don't think it's a patch on the ones that Martyn has made, let along the intricate pins available from Brisa...

But I think I'm getting there.

S l o w l y


KKK.

[Adi007]

Nice work Keith! Thanks for sharing that.

[MushiSushi]

Hmmmmmmmmmm,

so much catching up to do

not the ar**hole with you dave :) ...... there was also Prague and Brussels to deal with ...... got Milan and Geneva to come ...... but having fun

Keith,

sounds to me like you are using an encapsulating polyester resin ... the reason you are having setting problems is that it requires mass to produce the exotherm, nothing to do with the pigment ... you'd be much better off using a polyurethane resin or an epoxy. your misalignment problem was due to not having a tight fit which you could have achieved by either using a thin solid rod in the centre or just wedging either end to hold the tubes in position. K&S (http://www.ksmetals.com/Homepage/default.asp) have a very wide range of tubes and shapes that will give you a much greater range of pattern, they are available from most model making and model railway shops.


keep plugging away mate

;)

Simon

[stonehard]

I went to B&Q and was amazed at the assortment of tube. brass steel and ali square as well and wire rod as well. what ever next

[Martyn]

Looks good Keith, I had some misalignment issues too - I've seen the same problem on pro-rods as well. I think getting a good tight fit and at the same time, the pattern you want can be very difficult. Though like Mushi says, I think the key is in having the right assortment of tubes sizes available and at hand.

When I cut the rods into small lengths though, I found some were aligned better than others - prolly due to slight warpage in the inner tubes. Maybe you will find this too and will be able to "cherry pick" your pins.

[stonehard]

I have some carbon fiber rod sections in the shed " I wonder"

[keith_beef]

Keith,

sounds to me like you are using an encapsulating polyester resin ... the reason you are having setting problems is that it requires mass to produce the exotherm, nothing to do with the pigment ... you'd be much better off using a polyurethane resin or an epoxy. your misalignment problem was due to not having a tight fit which you could have achieved by either using a thin solid rod in the centre or just wedging either end to hold the tubes in position. K&S (http://www.ksmetals.com/Homepage/default.asp) have a very wide range of tubes and shapes that will give you a much greater range of pattern, they are available from most model making and model railway shops.


keep plugging away mate

;)

Simon

The first resin I used was called "Gloss Coat", IIRR. I got it because it was described as being free-flowing, for pouring over artwork. I didn't expect it to need a big volume for the exothermic reation to happen.

The pin that worked was using araldite and the same black pigment. I diluted a little with 90º ethanol, but I think I could probably pull up undiluted araldite with the syringe.

I got the brass and aluminium rods from a model railway shop. I was a bit dissapointed in the range of shapes and sizes, but maybe I'll try with squares, Ts and (as you suggested) wedging with a piece in the centre, at least at the end.

I might have a go at making my own profiles, using a drawplate to modify round tubes. Untracht's book explains how to do this, and it looks like fun.


K.
.

[MushiSushi]

was this "gloss coat" thickened at all? it sounds like "gel coat" which is the first layer coat when moulding and the surface coat for boat building.
hobby stores bought resin tends to be an inferior quality. I have used it in emergencies but avoid it like the plague.
as to the brass sections, I think you were just unlucky and the model shop you found had a poor stock ... take a look around the K&S site I posted above ... a good model shop will stock a good range of that stuff

[rapidboy]

Guy's i'm in need of some mosaic pin's with red epoxy (i need about an inch of it in a hurry) so im gonna try B&Q tomorrow for some tubing.
Do i use Araldite and if so rapid or 24 hour ?
Also what can i use for dye ?
Cheers
rb

[Martyn]

Go for the 24hr cure stuff. You can use toner from a photocopier to dye it.

[rapidboy]

Go for the 24hr cure stuff. You can use toner from a photocopier to dye it.

Martyn ,Is toner powder or liquid.
I have some red ink from a franking machine.

[Martyn]

It's a powder. Your redi ink *might* work, dont use too much or the epoxy wont cure properly - trial and error. ;)

[keith_beef]

It's a powder. Your redi ink *might* work, dont use too much or the epoxy wont cure properly - trial and error. ;)

As I found out to my cost...

I was using this highly conentrated pigment, that's meant for colouring epoxy (and other carriers or media or whatever the stuff is called).

Just one drop is enough to colour quite a big batch of resin, probably more than you need to fill a 30cm length of tube. So unless you're going to make up a lot of tube, it can be wasteful and difficult to dose correctly.

I used ordinary araldite (24 hour cure), because the Rapide (1 hour cure) stiffened too quickly when I gto the dosage of pigment right. After mixing the hardener, resin and pigment for about three minutes, it was already getting sludgily thick.


KKK.

[Colin KC]

I use toner from a laserjet (HP of course) to dye my epoxy black, a tablespoonfull will completely black at least a pint (prolly use too much, but boy izzit black;));)

[rapidboy]

Only made up a couple of inch's to make sure the epoxy is gonna set.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/rapidboy1/410_1069_1.jpg

Didn't have any plastic tube so just had to suck the epoxy up the brass tube and the epoxy taste's like :yuck: :tongue19:.
Guess i just have to hurry up and wait until tomorrow.

rb

[MushiSushi]

Don't eat it!!

[rapidboy]

It set ok but the colour is not great.
I don't think i mixed it enough as the colour seems to have seperated from the epoxy (seemed well mixed last night and the epoxy that was left over is fine ???).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/rapidboy1/410_1081_1.jpg

It's also pretty dark and i wanted the colour to be quite vivid.
Im gonna try and get some toner tomorrow.

[Martyn]

It set ok but the colour is not great.
I don't think i mixed it enough as the colour seems to have seperated from the epoxy (seemed well mixed last night and the epoxy that was left over is fine ???).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/rapidboy1/410_1081_1.jpg

It's also pretty dark and i wanted the colour to be quite vivid.
Im gonna try and get some toner tomorrow.

Dunno mate, looks OK to me. The darker red could make for a classier look than bright red.

[rapidboy]

It's just not a "solid" colour ,almost as if the colour reacted to the epoxy?
I have a red spacer with a rec. icory scale and i wanted the pin to match the spacer but im getting impatient so i might go with this.
rb

[Pumbaa]

I think these look great , think i may have a go myself .
Just one question , even thought it might seem a daft one . How do you fit these to a knife ?
Cheers
Pumbaa

[clcuckow]

Dunno mate, looks OK to me. The darker red could make for a classier look than bright red.

I have just had the same problem with some red gloss Humbrol no. 19. I think it oxidised and when from a blood red to almost black. it looks to me like it was a little 'raw' when you 'filed' it. If it is not completely set (and I find that takes way longer than 24h) you push in swarf into the epoxy.

Think I will have to try proper pigment next time.

[rapidboy]

I made some more the next day and forgot about them so they should be set by now !!!
I spent longer mixing the dye with the resin that time ,must check it tomorrow.

[ggfh666]

I think these look great , think i may have a go myself .
Just one question , even thought it might seem a daft one . How do you fit these to a knife ?
Cheers
Pumbaa

Good question.
The way I did it (just once as a trial) was to drill a hole and put some epoxy in it. It had left some spare wood on the handle (few mm)
Put the pin in so it sticks out very little.
Then using a belt grinder, grind it all level (wood and pin that is).
The pin was nice and bright at that point. No longer roiugh from the cutting.

But I don't know what the experience pinners do here...

[Colin KC]

I think these look great , think i may have a go myself .
Just one question , even thought it might seem a daft one . How do you fit these to a knife ?
Cheers
Pumbaa

Generally they're for full tang knives & are used in place of the rivets or pins that you normally see the hole is drilled in tang & slabs (please see many other threads on how to do this, my way works best for me, but, after a couple of **** ups, your way will be best for you;))

The tube is scored/filed/ground to create a key for the epoxy & just epoxied in:D


A word of caution, when grinding the pin flush with the handle (a VERY satisfying duty, about on par with popping a whiole sheet of bubble wrap without cheating;)) don't allow it to get too hot, as this will weaken the epoxies (yes, all of them) & may cause problems inna future.

[clcuckow]

Colin's right about the heat, The first time I tried it I got it to hot and melted the epoxy enough to embed dust and brass swaf into the top I then had to spend hours hand sanding it down to get it out again when it had set again. Maybe we should take the Dave Barker approach ;)

[keith_beef]

Colin's right about the heat, The first time I tried it I got it to hot and melted the epoxy enough to embed dust and brass swaf into the top I then had to spend hours hand sanding it down to get it out again when it had set again. Maybe we should take the Dave Barker approach ;)

When I set my mosaic pins into the Pecos Caper, I deliberately cut them a little short, so they are slightly low of the surface of the wood.

My intention, was to allow for the wood to wear down a little, without the pins standing proud of the surface. But the unintended bonus, is that doing this means that you are not sanding the pin at the same time as the wood, so there is less risk of heating the epoxy.



KKK.

[kniv-per]

Made theese yesterday ....
http://thegoodstuffshop.dk/graphics/groups/3127_m.jpg
Nahaaaaaaa....'
Just kiddin .. :sign01:
kniv-per

[ANDYLASER]

OOOH, ,where they from? How much? Must have?

[Martyn]

Made theese yesterday ....
http://thegoodstuffshop.dk/graphics/groups/3127_m.jpg
Nahaaaaaaa....'
Just kiddin .. :sign01:
kniv-per

Hey Per, how come you have a ladybird in all of your photos?

[ANDYLASER]

I presume its either a trade mark type of thing, or they have been invaded by giant insects. I actually think it works well, as you instantly identify photos from Per.

[Stuart Ackerman]

The ladybird ACTUALLY is the maker of the mosaic...

[Martyn]

The ladybird ACTUALLY is the maker of the mosaic...

But the ladybird is in every picture of Per's, no matter what it's of. I thought maybe it's something for scale. I dunno.

[Stuart Ackerman]

He should use it as a logo on his blades... :)

[Stuart Ackerman]

Hey Per,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/zackerty/DSCF0001lady.jpg

[Martyn]

Hey, that's really good. If you add a single big circle or dot on each of the wing cases to show it's a ladybird, it'd be perfect. :)

[Stuart Ackerman]

...Done!

[Stuart Ackerman]

...Looks like a Pacman on fire....

[kniv-per]

Hey Per, how come you have a ladybird in all of your photos?

Because it's my logo for the shop
http://www.handmade-knives.com/goodstuff-logo.gif
, and so I can see if anyboddy "steals" my pictures ...Copyright protection ...
Also a good indication for size, since I always use the same one..
kniv-per

[kniv-per]

OOOH, ,where they from? How much? Must have?

I sell them - Brisa sells them and many other sell tem...
from...

[edit ~ advert removed by admin]

[kniv-per]

Hey Per,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/zackerty/DSCF0001lady.jpg
Zackerty,
Thanks.... look's a bit .... :hmmm:
Need more dots...
Rembrandt would have liked it ... :rolleyes:
kniv-per

[leon-1]

I have just recieved 4 feet (120cm) of mosaic pins, 2 different diameters (3mm and 4mm), in 4 different styles at a very reasonable £53.70 inclusive of shipping and exactly what I ordered to boot, I am now a happy man (well nearly) :)

[Martyn]

I sell them - Brisa sells them and many other sell tem...
from...

[edit ~ advert removed by admin]

Per, please dont use the forums to advertise your products. I know you were responding to a question about the picture of the pins you posted, but this thread is about making pins, not selling them, or for posting pictures of commercial pins. Please use the dealer sales forum for that.

Thankyou.
Martyn. ;)

[Stuart Ackerman]

Hey, that's really good. If you add a single big circle or dot on each of the wing cases to show it's a ladybird, it'd be perfect. :)

Per, I just did what Martyn said I should..I ALWAYS listen the Boss!!! So it was ONE dot per wing.

Per, I originally had three dots on each wing, but it looked too "busy"...Oh well :)

[Stuart Ackerman]

I think the idea of using the same item in each pic is a good idea...Hmmmmm, think I will use a 1000,000 dollar bill... :D

[kniv-per]

Per, please dont use the forums to advertise your products. I know you were responding to a question about the picture of the pins you posted, but this thread is about making pins, not selling them, or for posting pictures of commercial pins. Please use the dealer sales forum for that.

Thankyou.
Martyn. ;)
Shure thing .... I know..
Was just answering a quistion....... and did not try to sell, but gave info to where one could get hold of them..
Lot's of people show link to where things can be bought ...

I know it's about making them.. Just added the pic. for fun..
sorry.. :C
kniv-per

[BachlumChaam]

I shall try when its time for mine Extramite one shot epoxy resin its a wood glue that sets like glass if stiffish it takes 3 hours to set at 60 F (15-16 C) takes colour well and can get it almost anywhere, certainly worth trying IMO

[david1]

mosaic pins I think are made by sucking resin up to fill the gaps. Is there any reason why you cant fill the smaller tubes first and maybe with a differnt colour.
how about filling the small tubes with a red colour and a black colour in the outer big tube.

Is this posible ?

David

[Knife-Man]

mosaic pins I think are made by sucking resin up to fill the gaps. Is there any reason why you cant fill the smaller tubes first and maybe with a differnt colour.
how about filling the small tubes with a red colour and a black colour in the outer big tube.

Is this posible ?

David


Yes Ive done it ... no picture though and the red wasnt as bright as I hoped so it dosent show up to well agaist the back but yeah it can be done. I think I gave Wayne D the rest of what I made so he might be bale to get you pictures.

[david1]

Yes Ive done it ... no picture though and the red wasnt as bright as I hoped so it dosent show up to well agaist the back but yeah it can be done. I think I gave Wayne D the rest of what I made so he might be bale to get you pictures.

thats cool I just had not seen it so I wondered why :-)