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Kevin
24-05-04, 06:12 PM
This is the most challenging blade I have forged. Over the last 6 months I have made multiple failures trying to forge an integral out of a steel rod....Learning by all my mistakes, this is where I am so far!!!

Started out in life as a 1 inch diameter O1 rod....

http://www.coutelcutlery.com/integral%20pic%201_small.jpg

This shows the distal taper I forged into the blade (thick at the ricasso and narrows to point).

http://www.coutelcutlery.com/spine%20view%20pic%202_small.jpg


This is where I always went wrong before. So this time, I stopped forging and decided to file a groove in to the ricasso which will act as the shoulders for the handle. This is roughly filed, to give me a starting point before I begin to forge the tang.

http://www.coutelcutlery.com/filling%20the%20ricasso%20pic%203_small.jpg

Kevin
24-05-04, 06:22 PM
Filing finished. I also ground the scale off the blade so I could get a better look at the transition from blade to ricasso, and tidied it up..

http://www.coutelcutlery.com/riccaso%20filled%20pic%204_small.jpg

Back to the forge and starting to draw out the tang.

http://www.coutelcutlery.com/pic%205%20drawing%20out%20tang_small.jpg

The tang is now about 4 1/2 inches long, square and very thick. The tang will be left thick like this and included in the heat treatment process...

http://www.coutelcutlery.com/tang%20drawn..pic%206_small.jpg

Kevin
24-05-04, 06:26 PM
This is where I am up to at the moment. It has been tripled thermo cycled and is annealing before I attack it with files and grit paper. It will mostly be all hand work from here on as I need to blend the blade in with the ricasso as one transition, and the bevels have been forged in.

I am guessing that I have about 8 hours of filing and sanding before I am ready for heat treatment...Then handle fitting etc.

I had to take my time , use low localised heats so I didnt burn the steel. As a comparism, a normal blade forged from flat stock will take me on average 20 mins. This blade has taken 4 hours!!!


http://www.coutelcutlery.com/normalising.jpg

narsil
24-05-04, 06:41 PM
Ooooohh...looks good.
I'm working on something similar at the moment, not up to that kind of standard tho'.
Did you use a particular tool liek a fuller or something to get the risacco transition or is it just hammer and anvil?
When you're forging how much of the steel do you heat at any one time, generally?

Kevin
24-05-04, 07:18 PM
Did you use a particular tool liek a fuller or something to get the risacco transition or is it just hammer and anvil?
When you're forging how much of the steel do you heat at any one time, generally?

Thanks Chris. This is the last piece of work I do here before I move my workshop lock stock and barrel week after next ...so it will be my last Floridian knife :)

There are three ways that I have started the ricasso transition on an integral from a bar. If the bar isnt too thick then a fuller works well. I made a fuller out of similar sized bar stock, folded it in half and bade a spring...the work then sits between the fuller, heat it and hammer it to start the transition off. One mistake I always made was going too deep...I found its better to keep plenty of steel there , then finish it off later with files or a grinder. Having more steel there also leaves room for mistakes that can be corrected if your lucky :) .
It can also be done on the corner of the anvil...but I find the fuller is easier as it sets them up symetrical.

I found its best to start flattening the bar at the point end first and work back rather than from the ricasso and work forward. I flatten and begin to taper the point by hand , then move backwards. This bar was so thick, and being O1 needed a helping squeeze from my press....but I then did everything else by hand. It takes ages before it starts to move, but it slowly gets easier :)


I tend to heat just the part of the blade I am working on...to minimise burning too much steel and carbon (tip, middle, ricasso, tang)...My initial heats to get the steel moving are h.o.t.!!!But I then reduce the heat as low as I can to still manage moving the steel. The last few heats, especialy on the edge are very low, and the color can only just be seen in the dark.

Most of the photos of the blade are during thermo cycling sessions (normalising) which I did through out the process so thats why they are at a red heat..It was also the best time to take the photos.....(ie normalised the blade before I started on the tang, normalise tang, a few straightening heats and edge packing then more normalising before annealing)

johnuk6
24-05-04, 07:23 PM
Thats a great bit of forging,I'm very impressed.Great Job.

Tvividr
24-05-04, 07:59 PM
Nice Kevin, can't wait to see the finished piece.

Trond
24-05-04, 11:39 PM
What the others said kevin :)

And the price of that knife :yikes: at least 1000 quids :D
i thought of trying one myself, but i gave up loong before i started, too much work there :D

Kevin
25-05-04, 01:01 AM
So far, I have spent several hours filing and sanding it. Started with a double cut file, then single, 60 grit, then 100 grit. .....on one side only!!! I will take it to a 1000 grit. After heat treatment, I will go over by hand again to 1000 grit, then drop down to 600 grit for a final satin finish..Then the handle!!

However, this is all I am going to do for a while...maybe pick it up again in a week or so...this is a long term project :)


http://www.coutelcutlery.com/hand%20finishing.jpg

Dave Barker
25-05-04, 08:30 AM
Looking goods Kev!

i seem to remember some piccies in the gallery of something similar that you did. Around the same time you made the bullet/cartridge knives...

Can the same be done on a scandi style blade too?

JohanB
25-05-04, 12:15 PM
Very nice kev. What kind of handle are you gonna make for it?

Kevin
25-05-04, 12:59 PM
Looking goods Kev!

i seem to remember some piccies in the gallery of something similar that you did. Around the same time you made the bullet/cartridge knives...

Can the same be done on a scandi style blade too?

Yes....I am a step ahead of you :)
Though the bullet knife was early days and didnt have a scandi grind...

Kevin
25-05-04, 01:08 PM
Very nice kev. What kind of handle are you gonna make for it?


I have some very special instrument grade (show quality) tiger stripe curly maple which really cost me a small fortune (imported from Canada)...I am saving it for special projects. If I can improve my silver inlay, then I will also include that.

The handle is going to be something like a Brazilian Gaucho style knife..In fact, the idea for this knife was inspired from the Gaucho knives.

I posted this link on BB some time ago...but here is my inspiration..and a good tutorial...
http://www.brazilianbladesmiths.com.br/integral.htm

Chris Barry
25-05-04, 04:21 PM
Looks like it will make a very nice blade :biggthump. Reminds me of some tai goo blades
http://www.taigoo.com/gallery/presentation/images/hybridpackage-1.jpg
http://www.taigoo.com/gallery/presentation/images/hybridintegral-3.jpg
http://a5.cpimg.com/image/9B/5F/32254875-d66d-02000100-.jpg