Second Scandi

[Lord Farquhar]

http://www.britishblades.com/photopost/data/500/7572_scndi_rt.jpg

http://www.britishblades.com/photopost/data/3003/7572_scndi_lft.jpg


This is the second scandi I have ever made. It’s made from 2 burls and black vulcanised fibre. The blade is 1095 carbon steel that has been edged quenched and treated so a hamon is showing. The blade is not fixed as yet nor is it finished.

I have been having trouble with the burls splitting I think is because the burls have 2 woods in them as in the redder and denser hart wood and the lighter sap wood and I think that when it drying they are drying at different rates. I added 25% per volume of Danish oil to my finishing oil and turpentine mix, hopefully it will add some stability. I soaked for about 30 hours and it has been drying slowly in my kitchen (as it cold and wet in there most of the time). I am planning to turps/beeswax finnish it after giving it a little bit of cutting in to finish it off. The blade still has to be cleaned up a little and given its final edge.

All comments and advice gratefully received.

[Basemetal]

Great Knife- I like the unfinished blade -and definitely the two burl effect. It's hard to judge from piccies, and I never know when to stop when I'm doing it myself, but I think the handle coould do with a bit more shaping just where the rear burl joint is. Just now it looks like the palm swell nearly follows the spacer line (rear)where it might look more balanced if the swell started further forward. It could separate the visual collision of the spacer with the change of section.
Clear as Mud?
:bandit:

[Lord Farquhar]

Clear as Mud?
:bandit:


er aye!

On the under side of the central burl the burl is not perfect and there is a wee bit less than 1 cm that’s not fully joined with the rest of the wood so i fear if i start chopping into it any more this bit may become loss and unstable

is that understandable?

[Basemetal]

Understood :)

[Trond]

Nice one :) One tip though, traditionally a scandi blade is three layers, full HT this gives the result that the blade can be worn all the way down to the back of the blade.
What i mean is: I try to explain in nogging and hopefully someone will help me with translation.

Dersom bladet er herdet hele veien gjennom, kan det brukes og brynes/ slipes helt til det ikke er noe igjen av det. Med en "hammon" som denne, vil det etter kort tid ikke være mer herdet stål å ta av, spesiellt helt inne ved brystningen

[Lord Farquhar]

trond !

do you mean a mai sai blade?

witha hard core with hard steel with softer outer steels ?

softer steel to give it springy stength and the hard steel to give it edge holding abilities?

[Trond]

Yes and no, what i mean is that , a san mai blade can be used untill theres nothing left of it, if you have a hammon like you have here, you can only use the knife for a litle while, and you will have no more hardened steel to grind on.

[Lord Farquhar]

Yes and no, what i mean is that , a san mai blade can be used untill theres nothing left of it, if you have a hammon like you have here, you can only use the knife for a litle while, and you will have no more hardened steel to grind on.


hmm piont taken but i dont have any maisai so fully hardening the blade will make it very brittle and it would probably snap in service. so for a single steel blade a hard edge and a soft back will have to suffice

[Dave Barker]

Nice one :) One tip though, traditionally a scandi blade is three layers, full HT this gives the result that the blade can be worn all the way down to the back of the blade.
What i mean is: I try to explain in nogging and hopefully someone will help me with translation.

Dersom bladet er herdet hele veien gjennom, kan det brukes og brynes/ slipes helt til det ikke er noe igjen av det. Med en "hammon" som denne, vil det etter kort tid ikke være mer herdet stål å ta av, spesiellt helt inne ved brystningen

i'm on it trond!

Mozzi.

trond says that a traditional scandi blade is hardened all the way through. this means that it can be sharpened till there is nothing left og it.

He says that the edge quenched blade will at some stage be sharpened so thet there is no hardened steel left and the blade will be useless. this is especially the case at the ricasso.

That alright peders?

[Basemetal]

...after 40 years or so.... :rotfl:

[Lord Farquhar]

ok Dave point taken but i am reluctant to fully harden any blade as I snapped 2 in the last 2 weeks. I could make a new blade for it as its not stuck together. What do you suggest ? new blade or redo this one?

[Trond]

My suggestion would be that you re-harden the blade, if you put in in the quench horisentally, (horisontalt) You could quench half the blade, and still have a soft back on it, cause it is a nice blade :)

[Lord Farquhar]

My suggestion would be that you re-harden the blade, if you put in in the quench horisentally, (horisontalt) You could quench half the blade, and still have a soft back on it, cause it is a nice blade :)


ok will do cheers for the info
I deliberately did not fix it to the handle as i kind of knew that i had messed something up