Leather adhesive

[David Morgan]

What sort of adhesive is best for leather? I used Evostick Impact for a sheath, because it says on the pack that it is suitable for leather, but it dissolved when I applied liquid Niqwax; was i using the wrong adhesive, or the wrong leather treatment?

Help!

[PS_Bond]

Nikwax??? The only thing I've found that would do over Evostick effectively is their thinners... A nasty blend from what I remember (added - toluene and hexane. Not at all nice). Wonder what did it in? Was the bond roughed up before you applied the glue? (yes, I *know* there is a pun in there)

About the only thing that speings to mind is to use an industrial contact adhesive, but I've got no experience of those - I still use Evostick.

Valerie Michaels advocates using PVA for holding things together prior to stitching.

[Colin KC]

I use Uhu, in contact mode, never had problems:)

[David Morgan]

Thanks guys. Not sure what happened with the nikwax. The glue didn't dissolve exactly, but it went gummy and stopped sticking. Possibly I didn't let it set up properly first? I'll try something different on the next one.

[Basemetal]

Superglue? instructions recommend wetting the leather first and it can cause hard spots. But for some application it might be alright.

When do you glue leather anyway?
:bandit:

[ZDP-189]

Pattex Classic. But don't wet the sheath till very dry.

[MushiSushi]

evostick is solvent based so therefore solvent will always attack it ... anything thinners/acetone based ... doesn't matter how long it's been drying

[PS_Bond]

AFAIK, Nikwax doesn't use anything quite that volatile?

[keith_beef]

I use Bostik 1400 Neoprene Contact adhesive. You can downlad a datasheet from the Bostik website (I've not done this, since i've had no problems).

From the smell of the stuff, it's what cobblers use to stick on shoe soles, and they use (or used to use) amyl nitrate or amyl acetate as a solvent (IIRR).

But then, I glue leather so as to hold the pieces together while I'm stitching. I'm not all that bothered about the glue failing later, since I'm counting on the stiching for structural solidity, and on grease or wax for waterproofing.

I expect that Nikwax uses some sort of volatile solvent (is there any other sort?) to reduce the viscosity of the was, so it penetrates well... and this solvent could be what is eating your glued seams.

Toluene and benzene should not be present in anything you buy over the counter, unless you get some sort of COSHH sheet handed to you on purchase.


KKK.

[PS_Bond]

I use Bostik 1400 Neoprene Contact adhesive. You can downlad a datasheet from the Bostik website (I've not done this, since i've had no problems).


Is that one of the 2 pack adhesives? I use something along those lines for sticking my drysuit together, but I would have thought the pot life was too short for leatherwork use.



Toluene and benzene should not be present in anything you buy over the counter, unless you get some sort of COSHH sheet handed to you on purchase.

For certain values of "should". This was dear old Block & Quail, purveyors of fine DIY tat to the masses :)

[MushiSushi]

Toluene and benzene should not be present in anything you buy over the counter, unless you get some sort of COSHH sheet handed to you on purchase.
.
:quietchucklingsmiley: