Sajuma
26-10-04, 12:20 PM
I hope that this tutorial will help someone to make an axe sheath.
Dan, the little fat bear, helped me to put this tutorial together, many thaks to him!
(1) Mark out a template
The first step is to mark out a template in cardboard. Corrugated cardboard is similar to leather in terms of thickness and stiffness and it's easier (and cheaper) to build the template this way.
The Axe head is placed on the cardboard and the outine traced. The axe head is rolled onto the reverse side and the mirror image is also traced. A margin of about 2cm is traced around the outline to provide for the spacers and stitching. A flap is also marked out so that the flap will extend from the top of the inside panel when the sheath is worn with the edge facing forward.
A double belt loop is also marked out. A double loop is preferred to a single loop because it helps stabilise the axe on the hip and prevents the handle flailing about. The belt loop will be sewn half way up the face with the flap and should be large enough for a broad belt.
At this point, you can assemble the sheath with tape and test the fit and alignment.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2178.jpg
(2) Transfer the shape to leather
Having traced the outline, also mark the outline of the axe head.
Thick leather was used, as I have nothing else available at the moment.
It worked OK; the axe needs more support, because the shaft puts more leverage on the blade.
It's sensible to use treated leather, because half-tanned rawhide would shrink in the first rain and constrict around the axe head.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2179.jpg
(3) Fold the Leather Around the Head
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2180.jpg
(4) Trace the Spacer
A spacer is necessary to accomodate the mass of the axe head and to protect the stitching from the blade edge. Use tracing paper to follow the outline already marked in the leather.
One should never throw away bits and pieces of leather; I used them between stitches.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2181.jpg
(5) Build a Spacing Wedge
An axe differs from a knife in that it is much thicker at the shaft. It will require a very thick spacer to be built up to match the thickness.
Using the tracing paper prepare a stack as pictured below. You can always cut away, but not fill gaps, so leave a little excess.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2182.jpg
(6) Skive the Wedge
Using a sharp knife, trip the excess around the base of the axe head, leaving a neat, smooth wedge that will not expose gaps.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2186.jpg
(7) Mark the Stitching Positions
You need to stitch the belt loop before you close the sheath. Perhaps before you attach the wedge, you should flip the leather over and on the skin side, mark the stitching guidelines with a gouge and mark the position of the belt loop.
Note that the pattern here shows both the stitching outline and decorative gouges. You won't be stitching along all these lines.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2188.jpg
(8) Attach the Belt Loop
Mark a series of holes with a spacer wheel and use a punch or sharp drill to make a series of equidistant holes.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2190.jpg
Attach the belt loop, using a strong double running stitch.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2191.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2250.jpg
(9) Stitch the Outer Seam
Using the same technique as above, stich the outer seam that should run along the bottom and the edge of the head. Obviously leave space for the handle and for the head to emerge from the top.
The bottom stitches were a bit difficult to sew because of the thickness, but I used dremel to make the holes. In the end it was quite easy. I glued everything in place before sewing, this helps a lot while stitching.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2251.jpg
(10) The (Almost) Finished Product
I haven't decided how to finish the "locking system". Has anyone got any ideas?
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2252.jpg
Juha
Dan, the little fat bear, helped me to put this tutorial together, many thaks to him!
(1) Mark out a template
The first step is to mark out a template in cardboard. Corrugated cardboard is similar to leather in terms of thickness and stiffness and it's easier (and cheaper) to build the template this way.
The Axe head is placed on the cardboard and the outine traced. The axe head is rolled onto the reverse side and the mirror image is also traced. A margin of about 2cm is traced around the outline to provide for the spacers and stitching. A flap is also marked out so that the flap will extend from the top of the inside panel when the sheath is worn with the edge facing forward.
A double belt loop is also marked out. A double loop is preferred to a single loop because it helps stabilise the axe on the hip and prevents the handle flailing about. The belt loop will be sewn half way up the face with the flap and should be large enough for a broad belt.
At this point, you can assemble the sheath with tape and test the fit and alignment.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2178.jpg
(2) Transfer the shape to leather
Having traced the outline, also mark the outline of the axe head.
Thick leather was used, as I have nothing else available at the moment.
It worked OK; the axe needs more support, because the shaft puts more leverage on the blade.
It's sensible to use treated leather, because half-tanned rawhide would shrink in the first rain and constrict around the axe head.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2179.jpg
(3) Fold the Leather Around the Head
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2180.jpg
(4) Trace the Spacer
A spacer is necessary to accomodate the mass of the axe head and to protect the stitching from the blade edge. Use tracing paper to follow the outline already marked in the leather.
One should never throw away bits and pieces of leather; I used them between stitches.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2181.jpg
(5) Build a Spacing Wedge
An axe differs from a knife in that it is much thicker at the shaft. It will require a very thick spacer to be built up to match the thickness.
Using the tracing paper prepare a stack as pictured below. You can always cut away, but not fill gaps, so leave a little excess.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2182.jpg
(6) Skive the Wedge
Using a sharp knife, trip the excess around the base of the axe head, leaving a neat, smooth wedge that will not expose gaps.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2186.jpg
(7) Mark the Stitching Positions
You need to stitch the belt loop before you close the sheath. Perhaps before you attach the wedge, you should flip the leather over and on the skin side, mark the stitching guidelines with a gouge and mark the position of the belt loop.
Note that the pattern here shows both the stitching outline and decorative gouges. You won't be stitching along all these lines.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2188.jpg
(8) Attach the Belt Loop
Mark a series of holes with a spacer wheel and use a punch or sharp drill to make a series of equidistant holes.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2190.jpg
Attach the belt loop, using a strong double running stitch.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2191.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2250.jpg
(9) Stitch the Outer Seam
Using the same technique as above, stich the outer seam that should run along the bottom and the edge of the head. Obviously leave space for the handle and for the head to emerge from the top.
The bottom stitches were a bit difficult to sew because of the thickness, but I used dremel to make the holes. In the end it was quite easy. I glued everything in place before sewing, this helps a lot while stitching.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2251.jpg
(10) The (Almost) Finished Product
I haven't decided how to finish the "locking system". Has anyone got any ideas?
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saxajd2252.jpg
Juha