ZDP-189
18-11-04, 08:33 PM
I recently bought a Paul Chen Practical Plus Katana for $180 from kultofathena.com. Why was it soooooo cheap? Because it had two really nasty cracks in the saya (scabbard). The cracks ran all through the wood and happened when the sheathed sword was bent in transit. The Tsuba (guard) provided a focus point and while the sword bent, the wooden saya did not, and one side split away from the other. The salesman was very helpful and described the extent of the damage really clearly, so I knew what I was in for. The idea is to pick up a good, cheap sword and learn about making sayas and other parts.
The some of the first few images are strangely missing and will have to be edited in later when they show up. They show the cracks, my filing the cracked lacquer down to the wood.
Here I pick out any splinters. Then wedge the saya apart and apply epoxy sparingly in the crack so that when I bind up, only a tiny amount will squeeze out. I used slow-set epoxy and bound up with insulating tape for over 24h. Then I applied CA glue to any crack not already 100% filled and sealed with epoxy.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayhecm54.jpg
Note from the above photo that the saya had been made traditionally, with a slice of cow's horn binding the mouth of the saya. I had fully ground this away down to the wood layer. This shows Paul Chen used the traditional construction, where the honoki wood is carved down and bound around with horn. That they would go to this extent is astounding - especially for the price.
The problem for me is how to transfer the shape of the mouth to the horn? I used a foam sheet to make an impression, by rubbing graphite on the rim.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saynrect94.jpg
I cut out the foam and scribed inside onto the horn.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saywj405c3.jpg
I ended up applying masking tape because I couldn't see the see the scribe line when cutting.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayrc09m43.jpg
Here I'm using a jeweller's saw on a V-plate for accuracy.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayw33lpdk.jpg
There's minimal filing to do. I went wrong here. I should not have used the filing jig and instead flared the bottom away slightly for a perfect fit at the top. Anyway the gap was a few hundredths of a mm.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/say5a237w4.jpg
I beveled the edge at the base only for a good fit.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayr64l7ul.jpg
Compression fit. Very tight.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayjd34jm5.jpg
No gap at the base because I was careful to file the wood flat.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayfws0weo.jpg
I traced out the outline, noting that there's be filler later to accomodate.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saykcfvd0r.jpg
Tracing done.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayj34em5c.jpg
And shape roughed out
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayn4em5cv.jpg
I used Fine Milliput for strength and predictability. 24h to wait again.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/say43j0cm3.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayjd34m5c.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayj34c254.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayjrc934j.jpg
The seal will be visable so I need to use black potting compound.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saywjh45c.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayj4emc54.jpg
The stuff is very very runny and tends to drain out, so I trap it in with tape, top up and even add a beading at the rim with half set compound afer an hour or so. 24h to wait again.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayc2w3ovp.jpg
File flush. I used silk to protect the saya from the vice (there's another vice for stabilising at the far end too) and taped off for further protection from the file.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayf34ep05.jpg
I use impact tape for golf-clubs to see where the fit is tightest. I want a uniform grip all around at full insertion. Ohh, err, Missus, etc.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/say345cw3m.jpg
I am in the process of taking off some wood filler to fill any tiny cracks. Oh, yes, there was another drying time there, too.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayh3wc45h.jpg
This is the original finish I need to match.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayj95cmjw.jpg
Here I test the hard polystyrene 'granite' effect spray on a CD.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saylr5fpb5.jpg
I sprayed a coat of matt black, then another when dry. Sanded back with 1,000 grit. This gives a flush and very flat back background. Then I applied the 'granite' effect, let it dry, then 3-4 thin coats of matt black, then 3 coats of satin lacquer spray.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayhe95mj4.jpg
Perfection!
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayr94uj5o.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayer9t43.jpg
The some of the first few images are strangely missing and will have to be edited in later when they show up. They show the cracks, my filing the cracked lacquer down to the wood.
Here I pick out any splinters. Then wedge the saya apart and apply epoxy sparingly in the crack so that when I bind up, only a tiny amount will squeeze out. I used slow-set epoxy and bound up with insulating tape for over 24h. Then I applied CA glue to any crack not already 100% filled and sealed with epoxy.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayhecm54.jpg
Note from the above photo that the saya had been made traditionally, with a slice of cow's horn binding the mouth of the saya. I had fully ground this away down to the wood layer. This shows Paul Chen used the traditional construction, where the honoki wood is carved down and bound around with horn. That they would go to this extent is astounding - especially for the price.
The problem for me is how to transfer the shape of the mouth to the horn? I used a foam sheet to make an impression, by rubbing graphite on the rim.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saynrect94.jpg
I cut out the foam and scribed inside onto the horn.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saywj405c3.jpg
I ended up applying masking tape because I couldn't see the see the scribe line when cutting.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayrc09m43.jpg
Here I'm using a jeweller's saw on a V-plate for accuracy.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayw33lpdk.jpg
There's minimal filing to do. I went wrong here. I should not have used the filing jig and instead flared the bottom away slightly for a perfect fit at the top. Anyway the gap was a few hundredths of a mm.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/say5a237w4.jpg
I beveled the edge at the base only for a good fit.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayr64l7ul.jpg
Compression fit. Very tight.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayjd34jm5.jpg
No gap at the base because I was careful to file the wood flat.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayfws0weo.jpg
I traced out the outline, noting that there's be filler later to accomodate.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saykcfvd0r.jpg
Tracing done.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayj34em5c.jpg
And shape roughed out
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayn4em5cv.jpg
I used Fine Milliput for strength and predictability. 24h to wait again.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/say43j0cm3.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayjd34m5c.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayj34c254.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayjrc934j.jpg
The seal will be visable so I need to use black potting compound.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saywjh45c.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayj4emc54.jpg
The stuff is very very runny and tends to drain out, so I trap it in with tape, top up and even add a beading at the rim with half set compound afer an hour or so. 24h to wait again.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayc2w3ovp.jpg
File flush. I used silk to protect the saya from the vice (there's another vice for stabilising at the far end too) and taped off for further protection from the file.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayf34ep05.jpg
I use impact tape for golf-clubs to see where the fit is tightest. I want a uniform grip all around at full insertion. Ohh, err, Missus, etc.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/say345cw3m.jpg
I am in the process of taking off some wood filler to fill any tiny cracks. Oh, yes, there was another drying time there, too.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayh3wc45h.jpg
This is the original finish I need to match.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayj95cmjw.jpg
Here I test the hard polystyrene 'granite' effect spray on a CD.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/saylr5fpb5.jpg
I sprayed a coat of matt black, then another when dry. Sanded back with 1,000 grit. This gives a flush and very flat back background. Then I applied the 'granite' effect, let it dry, then 3-4 thin coats of matt black, then 3 coats of satin lacquer spray.
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayhe95mj4.jpg
Perfection!
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayr94uj5o.jpg
http://uberlevel.com/link2image/sayer9t43.jpg