Low-Tech Enzo Tutorial

[ZDP-189]

Not everyone's got a craft workshop full of kit. This is a tutorial for those who need to do it on a budget, with a minimum of tooling.

This is a basic flatground Enzo in D2. I like the Enzo line of kit blades because they are exceptionally well designed, well made, precision ground and they make for a light, well balanced and effective bushcraft knife.

The kit's nothing special here: blade, loveless bolts, white vulcan fibre liner and a block of olive wood.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo01.jpg

The key is to be slow and deliberate. Envisage the knife, plan everything and measure carefully. If you stick to the order and method described here, you shouldn't go far wrong.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo02.jpg

Cut the slabs with a tenon saw. Decide whether you want to book match, or not. I prefer not, unless one side of the wood is ugly or I cack up the cut and need to use the existing flat block sides. Bookmatching is for woods with pronounced end grain, whereas olive wood has beautiful patterns that flow from side to side.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo03.jpg

The inner sides of the woodslab must be absolutely flat or a gap will be left. To do this sand them flat with the sandpaper grit upwards on a flat surface (here I used a pane of float glass on a non-slip mat), with slow, even pressure, but primarily in the centre of the wood failure to do this will make the blocks very slightly thinner at the edge and a quarter millimetre gap would be very apparent later. It is best to sand slabs that are too long and wide to minimise this effect. An 80- to 120 grit finish is ideal. Too smooth a surface will not bond well to the epoxy.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo04.jpg

Test fit the wood and liners. Do not cut to closely match to the tang profile, or you'll risk cutting or even scratching the wood below the line of the tang and without a grinder, it'll be hard to sand the tang down flush.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo06.jpg

Glue each liner to the correct side of each slab. Use a slow setting epoxy, because If you make a big mistake, divide up the parts and wipe them clean.

Continued...

[ZDP-189]

Note in the image above that there is no glue between the liners! I used the slabs to even out the pressure from the clamps. You could clamp it against table, but be sure there are no drips or you might not be able to get the stack off the table.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo07.jpg

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo08.jpg

Clamp the stack, sans blade and mark and cut the front of the slabs and sand to a finish. This part will be inaccessible once the handle is assembled.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo09.jpg

Glue one side's liner and slab to the tang. Make sure the front of the block is in the right place.

Continued...

[ZDP-189]

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo10.jpg

Clamp up, but do not over-tighten, or there'll be no epoxy in the middle! I prefer to clean out the epoxy from the tang rivet holes and lanyard at this point. When the epoxy has solidified but not hardened, release the clamp and peel off any excess that squeezed out. This gives a cleaner result than wiping when the epoxy is still wet. Pay particular attention to the front of the slabs and blade and also make sure no gross excess can get in the way of the second side or clog the holes, because an empty tang hole is easier to seat the drill bit in.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo11.jpg

When the first side is mostly hardened (but not necessarily fully cured), clamp the blade between leather or rubber sheets vertically in a vice with the holes still above the vise jaws. Backstop the drill from the blade side with scrap wood to prevent blowout if your slabs are close to final thickness.

Drill as perpendicular as possible; 1 degree or more off is not too bad. The important thing is to hit the tang hole dead centre, so drill from that side using a bit that is close to the hole size.

Repeat for the second rivet hole and don't forget the lanyard hole if you want one.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo12.jpg

Glue up the other side, taking care to match the position of the front of the slabs.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo14.jpg

When the epoxy is somewhat set, Repeat the drilling process from the other side through the already drilled holes.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo15.jpg

With the knife still in the clamp, drill the corby bolt seat with a step drill. Without a concentric bit, it is very hard to centre the bit, even with a drill press. A seat that is off by a small fraction of a millimetre will either not take the bolt, and/or will show an obvious gap. Drill this hole slowly, or you will burn the wood round the hole and/or chip the wood. Neither mistake is recoverable and will spoil the knife.

The depth of the seat is critical. Each knife may be different, but you can follow these principles: the rivets must be able to go through and screw together; too thin a thickness of wood under the seat will be mechanically weak, but you need at least 2-3mm of head within the wood when the knife is shaped or it'll be too weak (especially loveless bolts); also the screwdriver slot must be above the surface. Make sure you consider and measure all this before you drill.

Notice that, in the photo above, I have roughly shaped the handle before seating the loveless bolts? That is so that I know exactly how much of a seat I am drilling.

When you shape the handle, do not use any high speed saw or grinder to sand down the bolts. They heat up easily and can burn the wood. A rough file is best. Another common mistake is to file down the bolts till there is no head left. Again this is catastrophic, so plan, measure and cut cautiously and to plan.

Shape the handle as you wish and finish the wood as you would any woodwork project, but remember that the handle will get wet, so wet the handle when you get to 600 grit to raise the grain, wipe dry and continue sanding.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo13.jpg

Never allow the blade to be marked or the edge or tip to be dinged. I wrap my blades with electrical or masking tape to protect them (and my flesh from the knife!).

You should have removed it when soft, but if there is any excess glue on the blade and you absolutely must scrape th steel, use a sharp piece of brass and not steel. It is a PITA to sand and buff scratches off a finished knife.

[ZDP-189]

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo16.jpg

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo17.jpg

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo18.jpg

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo19.jpg

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo20.jpg

The typical Enzo knife has a flat-sided handle slabs and indeed this is easier, but I prefer my knives to have curves not unlike a micarta Fällkniven F-1.

[ZDP-189]

BTW, the sheet-metal step drill worked a treat. I found the 8mm step perfectly seated the loveless bolt. Make sure that you go too deep and don't counter-sink the edge!

[mloc]

cracking knife and a great tutorial as well

[benp1]

that is absolutely fantastic, thanks for that Dan. I'll hopefully be handling my own blade soon!

[ZDP-189]

Thanks for the comments.

More tips:

I coat the inside of the void with epoxy so that if there is any water penetration, there is an epoxy coating to protect the steel.

I also add glue on the threads of the bolt for additional security and water resistance.

[mirage]

An excellent and well-illustrated tutorial for the non-experts.

Thank you.

mirage

[benp1]

Dan, questions for you, hope that's OK! There are a lot here, not necessarily related to the build above, others, please feel free to kick in. Hoping it might be useful for others in a similar position too

1. Sawing. Why the tenon saw? I only have a normal wood saw, will that do?

2. Bookmatched scales. I thought that sawing down the middle would pretty much bookmatch them anyway? Is it because of the sanding?

3. Initial holes in the wood. Does it matter if the holes in the wood are smaller than the holes in the blade? For example, 4.6mm hole in the wood and 6 mm hole in the tang (i'm referring to making in general, not specifically the Enzo kit)

4. Drilling the seats for the bolts. Did you know how far to drill and that you're step drill was the right size? i.e. did you know the seat was say 6mm wide and that's what you used. I can only assume so but just wanted to check

5. Fixing the bolts. Are the bolts literally screwed into the handle? Do you use epoxy to secure them?. The epoxy beneath the slabs stops them from moving and the bolts stop them from being pulled off and help stop any shearing forces.

6. Glue. Will any epoxy do? How do you clean out the rivet holes? Cotton buds? Also, when peeling off the epoxy, how does one know when its ready to peel? i.e. not too early and not too late

7. Filing and Shaping. When you say that filing down the bolts till there is no head left is a common mistake, could you expand? Should they be hacksawed off and then filed down? Or filed down close to the handle initially and then filed down as part of the handle shaping process?

8. Brass scraper. What else could be used instead of a brass scraper? I don't have any brass!!

9. Bolts. I'm going to be buying some, corby bolts or loveless bolts? I think corby bolts look easier to use and look better aesthetically. Is there a particular reason for using either?

10. Timing. Might as well round it off and ask a tenth question eh?! How long did it take? And how long did you leave in between each stage?


I have a blade I made at Jack Jack's hammerin, I'd like to handle it but there's more work to do on it, for example grinding the bevels and flattening the tang. Its been forged out and heat treated but that's it. I have a couple of Nylund blades but they're stick tangs so not quite applicable. I think I need to get a couple of full tang blades to practice on, I feel a visit to the Brisa website coming on! I reckon I'll be spending a fortune though as I want to try leather work as well as handling blades!

Thanks a lot and sorry for all the questions!

btw - you're workshop looks great! Its hoooge!

[jungle_re]

Thanks for taking the time Dan. Always good to see another way of doing things. That olive wood looks great BTW nice job

[ZDP-189]

Dan, questions for you, hope that's OK! There are a lot here, not necessarily related to the build above, others, please feel free to kick in. Hoping it might be useful for others in a similar position too

Great! Questions :D


1. Sawing. Why the tenon saw? I only have a normal wood saw, will that do?

I find the tenon saw gives a straighter, more accurate cut. It's not impossible with a handsaw. Normally I use a table saw.


2. Bookmatched scales. I thought that sawing down the middle would pretty much bookmatch them anyway? Is it because of the sanding?

Bookmatching would involve flipping the cut sides out. Imagine thisbut mirror imaged. It wouldn't look as nice.

http://l2i.org/OliveEnzo18.jpg


3. Initial holes in the wood. Does it matter if the holes in the wood are smaller than the holes in the blade? For example, 4.6mm hole in the wood and 6 mm hole in the tang (i'm referring to making in general, not specifically the Enzo kit)

No, but don't drill pilot holes. If you make a pilot hole and it's off-centre, you will find yourself in trouble if the final pin-sized hole doesn't overlap the tang hole.


4. Drilling the seats for the bolts. Did you know how far to drill and that you're step drill was the right size? i.e. did you know the seat was say 6mm wide and that's what you used. I can only assume so but just wanted to check

The seat was 8mm. It turned out to be perfect. Sometimes, USA bolts require metric step drills.

I sank it as far as it would go, but not deeper than the depth of the head. The limiting factor was the step drill butting against the tang.


5. Fixing the bolts. Are the bolts literally screwed into the handle? Do you use epoxy to secure them?. The epoxy beneath the slabs stops them from moving and the bolts stop them from being pulled off and help stop any shearing forces.

The bolts screw into the tapped brass heads. There is epoxy and mechanical action. Belt and braces.

Not to mention, the epoxy holding the stack together.


6. Glue. Will any epoxy do? How do you clean out the rivet holes? Cotton buds? Also, when peeling off the epoxy, how does one know when its ready to peel? i.e. not too early and not too late

Yes, any epoxy that sets between 5 mins and overnight will do. Opinions differ on this. I actually used 5 minute epoxy to cut the time to make the tutorial, but I am 100% certain that you couldn't get the scales off without powertools, or a mallet and chisel.

When the epoxy's not tacky and like cold toffee, it's perfect. Too hard and you'll struggle to get it off.


7. Filing and Shaping. When you say that filing down the bolts till there is no head left is a common mistake, could you expand? Should they be hacksawed off and then filed down? Or filed down close to the handle initially and then filed down as part of the handle shaping process?

Imagine if you filed the head off a screw, even partially. It wouldn't hold anything.

The heads I write of are the brass bits.


8. Brass scraper. What else could be used instead of a brass scraper? I don't have any brass!!

Anything harder then half-set epoxy and significantly softer than hardened tool steel. A bit of brass isn't hard to find and file to a point.


9. Bolts. I'm going to be buying some, corby bolts or loveless bolts? I think corby bolts look easier to use and look better aesthetically. Is there a particular reason for using either?

Loveless bolts have a raw honesty to them that I like. They're cheaper too. You can even make them yourself. I fancy they're stronger.

Corby bolts are fine, as are cutlery rivets, or even mosaic pins. It's a massively over-engineered structure.


10. Timing. Might as well round it off and ask a tenth question eh?! How long did it take? And how long did you leave in between each stage?

From start to finish 3-4 hours, but I cheated. I surfaced the slabs on the mill and used a belt sander to shape the handle. I work better that way and the point of the exercise was to illustrate the text I already wrote in another thread. I probably saved half an hour on the slabs and half an hour with a coarse half round file in shaping. If you use overnight setting epoxy, start on a Friday night and you'll be done by Saturday night, but you'll still use only 4-6 hours of actual work.


I have a blade I made at Jack Jack's hammerin, I'd like to handle it but there's more work to do on it, for example grinding the bevels and flattening the tang. Its been forged out and heat treated but that's it.

You're flattening a heat treated tang without a surface grinder? :O


I have a couple of Nylund blades but they're stick tangs so not quite applicable. I think I need to get a couple of full tang blades to practice on, I feel a visit to the Brisa website coming on! I reckon I'll be spending a fortune though as I want to try leather work as well as handling blades!

I already did a beginners' stick tang tutorial.

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5064

See also:

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5634


Thanks a lot and sorry for all the questions!

btw - you're workshop looks great! Its hoooge!

[ZDP-189]

Hmm, I've just seen my watch. Maybe not 3-4 hours. I was home by 3am.

[MrMac]

Amazing, this is just the sort of information i was looking for.

Awesome explinations and very well illustrated!!

[ZDP-189]

Ben, you mentioned the workshop. It measures 15 feet wide by 30 feet long and is basically like garage, except it's a dozen floors up and you can't get a car in there. I have everything I need to crank out knives fast, which is also why I like to work with kit blades. You get instant gratification, with still some personal creativity. I have lots of blades, materials and fittings. The only thing I lack is the time.

[Ken_Lau]

Dan - top tutorial mate and a great looking finished knife.

[Ratel10mm]

Mate, that's one of the best tutorials I've seen yet, for anything. :)

Thanks a lot for taking the time to do it.

[benp1]

First of all, thanks Dan, you're answers are really helpful




You're flattening a heat treated tang without a surface grinder? :O



Well I have an Aldi grinder so I'm hoping that will do some of it. Its going to be a very very slow process I think






I already did a beginners' stick tang tutorial.

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5064

See also:

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5634

Will definitely be giving these a go too Dan, thanks.



Ben, you mentioned the workshop. It measures 15 feet wide by 30 feet long and is basically like garage, except it's a dozen floors up and you can't get a car in there. I have everything I need to crank out knives fast, which is also why I like to work with kit blades. You get instant gratification, with still some personal creativity. I have lots of blades, materials and fittings. The only thing I lack is the time.

It really does look good. I've just moved house (even closer to Mill HIll now, I'm in Whetstone!) and now have a garage. I've spent the last little while getting it tidy and getting shelves and a table in there. I now have a work table with a vice, pillar drill and grinder. I've been waiting for this for a little while now and I'm so looking forward to making stuff!

[scruff]

Top tutorial Dan...and cracking results.

Thanks for taking the time.

I too love those Enzo blades.

[ANDYLASER]

Excellent work Dan.

[Stew]

I have a blade I made at Jack Jack's hammerin, I'd like to handle it but there's more work to do on it, for example grinding the bevels and flattening the tang.

Remember that you only relly need to get the outside edge of the tang flat. If the centre section of the tang is dished, it doesn't atter as it won't be seen.

A lot of knifemakers actually hollow the centre of the tang before tapering as grinders cut more effectively on a wheel as it opens the grit and then there is less material that needs flattening afterwards and it ensures the outside of the tang is the highest point.

[benp1]

Remember that you only relly need to get the outside edge of the tang flat. If the centre section of the tang is dished, it doesn't atter as it won't be seen.

A lot of knifemakers actually hollow the centre of the tang before tapering as grinders cut more effectively on a wheel as it opens the grit and then there is less material that needs flattening afterwards and it ensures the outside of the tang is the highest point.

Thanks Stew. In that case I'll use the grinding wheel initially to take it down and then the belt sander to flatten it.

I don't want to balls it up because I'm quite proud of it, even though its fugly. I suppose its my first one so might as well get stuck in and make some mistakes though. It'll be one for comparison back to!

[mostho]

great tutorial i think is a valuable resource for beginners and not beginners.

[Stew]

Remember that you only relly need to get the outside edge of the tang flat. If the centre section of the tang is dished, it doesn't atter as it won't be seen.

A lot of knifemakers actually hollow the centre of the tang before tapering as grinders cut more effectively on a wheel as it opens the grit and then there is less material that needs flattening afterwards and it ensures the outside of the tang is the highest point.

This illustrates it well:

http://www.customknivesandguns.com/ckgforums/showpost.php?p=229217&postcount=20

[Coresect]

Very good tutorial, as usual, and I have to admit, I admire a man who can make a knife and then wash his hands before the photo session.

;)

Paul.

[Dennis H]

An excellent tutorial. Just what one could expect from Dan.
Thank you.

[ZDP-189]

Thanks, Dennis. I bet there are a few BB members that weren't aware I make knives; it's been that long.

There's an excellent tutorial on your website, but so many people still ask that I thought a basic tools tutorial was called for.

Hopefully, we'll now see a new wave of makers with their first knives posted on the forum. There's no reason why a beginner following these instructions couldn't get a result as good as or better than mine with just a weekend's effort.

The Enzos are excellent blades; currently my favourite full-tangs. They enable anyone to come up with a pro-level 'custom'knife without a pro's investmnt in equipment.

[apai74]

Excellent tutorial, Dan...Err....how much is your Enzo kit cost?

[arian]

There are Enzo kits on Dennis H's site
http://www.brisa.fi

Looks like kits start from €50.

arian

[ZDP-189]

Excellent tutorial, Dan...Err....how much is your Enzo kit cost?

Yes, the blade alone is €43 and a full kit would be some €49 plus postage and VAT. I consider that a good deal and often order kits, even when I don't planning on using them as a kit.

With a couple of hours' work (YMMV considerably) you'll end up with a knife that should be nicer than the flat sided ones that Brisa is selling for €90 and better than many other knives that sell for a lot more.

The only better production bushcraft knife kit blade I know of is the Fällkniven BF1, and that costs €115 plus postage and VAT for just the blade, which is more than most people would pay for a casual project. Don't forget that the Enzo blades are also much lighter and balance in a more traditionally Scandinavian way than the Fällkniven because they are skeletonised.

On the subject of lightness and balance, I still prefer Scandinavian stick tangs, but not everyone agrees on and the Enzo is a near-ideal full-tang.

[apai74]

Thanks Dan. How about egde retention and sharpening? It will be my next project, right now I'm still completing two Parangs for a friend in KL. The Parangs are still on hold due to some unexpected situations... I hope I could complete them before September this year..

[apai74]

There are Enzo kits on Dennis H's site
http://www.brisa.fi

Looks like kits start from €50.

arian

Thanks buddy....:)

[ZDP-189]

I've not had problems with either and I've not heard of problems.

[apai74]

I've not had problems with either and I've not heard of problems.

Thanks:D

[The Blunt End]

Thanks for the tutorial, brilliant stuff Dan. I was considering one of these for my next knife and that's just the level of tools I've got access to.

Cheers
John

[skoppers]

Thanks so much for posting this. It's clarified a lot for me and now I'm really inspired to stick a handle on something.

[Frederiek]

Your tutorial is superb. Very useful and the photo's are great too!