View Full Version : Dyeing leather sheaths?
pennillion
28-08-09, 09:53 PM
As many will know.....i'm useless at making sheaths, but, i need to make one for my black scandi i made a while ago.
Now.....so i get an even colour all over, am i supposed to dye the leather whilst it is damp or not?
May be a silly question to most of you, but i honestly dont know.....i normally just fudge things and hope for the best :rolleyes:
i really dont know how you can say that, i have seen a few of your sheaths and i think they are great, im jealous of frenchy's knife as he's got a sheath for his scandi, but i have a shitty one i made for my lovely black and silver scandi you made....
i wish i could make them as good as yours....
pennillion
28-08-09, 10:03 PM
i really dont know how you can say that, i have seen a few of your sheaths and i think they are great, im jealous of frenchy's knife as he's got a sheath for his scandi, but i have a shitty one i made for my lovely black and silver scandi you made....
i wish i could make them as good as yours....
You mean you still have that knife:lol:
I often wonder where all the knives i have built are now:)
ngraudal
28-08-09, 10:05 PM
I dye all of my leatherwork damp.
I think it makes it easier to get a uniform colour all over.
If you take a piece of polished antler or bone and gently, but firmly, rub the sheath lengthwise you can get a very nice smooth and shiny finnish.
I have had limited succes with buffing them with carnaubawax, every second attempt :censored: up.
pennillion
28-08-09, 10:08 PM
I dye all of my leatherwork damp.
I think it makes it easier to get a uniform colour all over.
If you take a piece of polished antler or bone and gently, but firmly, rub the sheath lengthwise you can get a very nice smooth and shiny finnish.
I have had limited succes with buffing them with carnaubawax, every second attempt :censored: up.
I believe i made sheaths totally the opposite to the way normally prescribed.
Do you think it would be ok to make the sheath then dampen it and then dye afterwards?
You mean you still have that knife:lol:
I often wonder where all the knives i have built are now:)
i can assure you that it will not EVER be sold.....
its now in the heirloom drawer, its only seen blood once(not mine)....:D
pennillion
28-08-09, 10:13 PM
i can assure you that it will not EVER be sold.....
its now in the heirloom drawer, its only seen blood once(not mine)....:DTake a piccy of it in its new home sometime Kev, i'd love to see it again:)
ngraudal
28-08-09, 10:15 PM
I believe i made sheaths totally the opposite to the way normally prescribed.
Do you think it would be ok to make the sheath then dampen it and then dye afterwards?
Sure thing.
Usually I measure, cut, wet it, stitch, fit dangler/loop, carve the top of the sheath and then do whatever modelling I want to do (I suck at modelling:( )
If you make sure the stitches are tight I see no problem.
Remember that leather shrinks a little when it dries up again...
If you take some kitchentwrapping film and a hacksaw, cut the film roll into 1.5" wide rolls you have an excellent material to wrap the knife in and leave it in the sheath: VOILA wet-formed:D
Ooh yeah: Almost everyone does it their way Mik :) Do it your way and I'll just keep:love29:
i'll take one with its new friends....
i have drawn inspiration from your skills and added a couple of mik inspired knives to keep it company....
pennillion
28-08-09, 10:18 PM
Sure thing.
Usually I measure, cut, wet it, stitch, fit dangler/loop, carve the top of the sheath and then do whatever modelling I want to do (I suck at modelling:( )
If you make sure the stitches are tight I see no problem.
Remember that leather shrinks a little when it dries up again...
If you take some kitchentwrapping film and a hacksaw, cut the film roll into 1.5" wide rolls you have an excellent material to wrap the knife in and leave it in the sheath: VOILA wet-formed:D
Ooh yeah: Almost everyone does it their way Mik :) Do it your way and I'll just keep:love29:Wonderful.....i will have a go on Monday. I'm busy the weekend:) thank you.
And Kev....love to see Blackie's friends:)
ngraudal
28-08-09, 10:22 PM
Wonderful.....i will have a go on Monday. I'm busy the weekend:) thank you.
And Kev....love to see Blackie's friends:)
Well, you have a good birthday meet now, someday I'll have to take a roundtrip with Sterling, just to go to a meetup:)
Glad I could be of some assistance to *one of* the finest artisans on this forum:party11:
edit: The finest, In my oppinion
pennillion
28-08-09, 10:29 PM
Well, you have a good birthday meet now, someday I'll have to take a roundtrip with Sterling, just to go to a meetup:)
Glad I could be of some assistance to *one of* the finest artisans on this forum:party11:
edit: The finest, In my oppinion
Thank you kind sir:D i'm not sure i agree with you but i appreciate the sentiment;)
I'll raise a few glasses to you all over there for the influence you have all had on me, with my versions of the 'Scandi' knife:)
I believe i made sheaths totally the opposite to the way normally prescribed.
Do you think it would be ok to make the sheath then dampen it and then dye afterwards?
Damp or not really depends on the type of dye you;re using. Generally with water or spirit based dyes a bit of dampness will help, for oil based dyes dry is better.
Dying before assembly will make it easier to get an even colour although there are some circumstances where you will want to do it after, particularly if you are using different colours on an embossed pattern.
Dying after assembly can also be used as part of a process to create an aged finish as the unevenness in they way it takes the colour can work in your favour although even then if your using a dark colour you might want to do a base coat before assembly to take the rawness of colour out of the leather and make sure you get into all the nooks an crannies.
pennillion
28-08-09, 10:43 PM
Damp or not really depends on the type of dye you;re using. Generally with water or spirit based dyes a bit of dampness will help, for oil based dyes dry is better.
Dying before assembly will make it easier to get an even colour although there are some circumstances where you will want to do it after, particularly if you are using different colours on an embossed pattern.
Dying after assembly can also be used as part of a process to create an aged finish as the unevenness in they way it takes the colour can work in your favour although even then if your using a dark colour you might want to do a base coat before assembly to take the rawness of colour out of the leather and make sure you get into all the nooks an crannies.Aha ! i will check on what kind of dye's i have in the shed. I'd never thought about the dye base.
Great thread, I have learned a lot!
15 coats of dye is not the norm then?
Wet the leather before stitching.
You learn something new every day.
Thanks.
I'd also add that its worth experimenting on some scrap leather to see what works best since dying can be a bit of a black art depending on all kinds of odd variables. Wit hold based dyes you could always try wetting with a suitable solvent like white spirit or turps. One mans disaster is another mans exciting new discovery :)
pennillion
28-08-09, 11:02 PM
Great thread, I have learned a lot!
15 coats of dye is not the norm then?
Wet the leather before stitching.
You learn something new every day.
Thanks.There is always someone on BB who has the answer your looking for.....as long as they see the question :)
There is always someone on BB who has the answer your looking for.....as long as they see the question :)
Thanks Mik,
I am more the " blunder in all guns a blazing" type of guy.
But from now on i will ask before ruining.
Great thread though, very informative.
Cheers.
Scoutmaster
01-09-09, 10:59 PM
Mik
Are you wet forming the sheath in the scandi style and what type of leather is it.
If wet forming make the sheath then dye it or it may end up mess the dye.
I thin none oil based dye with meths to amke it go on more evenly and I clean teh sheath with mets prior to dyeing to reomve grease marks which may lead to uneven dyeing.
Scoutmaster
01-09-09, 11:03 PM
I'd also add that its worth experimenting on some scrap leather to see what works best since dying can be a bit of a black art depending on all kinds of odd variables. Wit hold based dyes you could always try wetting with a suitable solvent like white spirit or turps. One mans disaster is another mans exciting new discovery :)
I know what you mean about testing the first sheath I dyed looked like this.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/Knifeandsheath.jpg
he red stripe is british tan dye on half tanned wet formed laether.
tuwalen
02-09-09, 07:56 AM
somethings i do
-ready to dye...wear kitchen gloves
-clean with denaturated alcohol, if you are afraid it will make the leather brittle, its clean, not soak and after the dyeing you can always use a bit off neatsfood oil to put the oil back in the leather.
-dont toutch with bare hands until dry, grease, oil and leatherdye dont mix well.
for deep black:
-dye blue first.
I'd just add that for me, a circular motion when applying the dye works well. The finish seems to be much more even; you need to work quickly too, to avoid a concentration of dye in one particular area.
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