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ugug
29-08-03, 01:16 PM
hey all

just writing to see if anyone has tried stock removal on very thin steel... has anyone tried 2mm or even 1.5mm thick.. was the blade viable?

ok many thanks

ugug

MushiSushi
29-08-03, 01:31 PM
depends on whether you are making blades for a scalpel :p. .... seriously though, I'd say length, width, choice of steel type and use would come in to it quite a bit

Colin KC
29-08-03, 01:33 PM
Ug,
You an get a viable blade out of thin material, dependant on steel type & blade profile (prolly wouldn't work too well on low carbon steels, or indeed simple carbons unless the ht was just right, thin swords don't really cut it:rolleyes:;) (really thin swords such as some chinese straight swords require perfect heat treatment (that includes forging to perfection too)))


Does that help?

Colin KC
29-08-03, 01:34 PM
Yeah, what Mushy said too:D

MushiSushi
29-08-03, 01:46 PM
just put my verniers on my steak knives, which I am sure are a 400 series stainless of some sort, and they are 1.5mm, stock removal with a fine serrated edge

ugug
29-08-03, 07:10 PM
thanks guys it does help

and sorry my brain was in reverse this morning... i am trying to make a 3.5 inch oal (imperial only cause Colin's ruler is one sided) .. the cutting edge will be 1.5 nd the width about 3/5 inch .. handle will be simple cotton thread wrap.. profile will be a reverse warncliffe (flat top with the blade curving up) with a 1.5mm O1

it is the HT that is worrying me.. with a full flat grind i can't see anything that thin remaining straight ...hmm ..

thanks again


ugug

Roger Gregory
29-08-03, 07:15 PM
ugugug, I think with blades that thin you need to HT the steel before grinding and then grind slowly and keep cooling the steel so you don't ruin it.

Roger

Kevin
30-08-03, 01:59 PM
What Roger said :biggthump
Kevin.

ugug
30-08-03, 05:23 PM
ahh ok.. that too makes sense.. cheers cheers :biggthump