• EagleTac D25A Clicky Review (CREE XM-L2 U2)

    Hello all,

    Well I've been on a bit of a AA binge the last few months, so I thought I'd review a few of my recent purchases starting with the EagleTac D25A Clicky. Of all my lights (not just the AAs) this is my most carried and goes with me pretty much everywhere due to its size. Even if I'm carrying a big powerful CR123 guzzler this little guy will still be on me somewhere.

    I've been carrying a Fenix LD15 for a good long while now (great light) but have always wished it was a tail clicky instead of head twisty. Twisting the head back and forth to access the different light levels can be fiddly and I've had a couple of accidental activations that have left me with a drained AA right when I needed it. So the D25A Clicky was intended as a replacement for my LD15 and it certainly didn't disappoint. Here is what I've found...

    This was my first EagleTac light so I had no expectations as to build quality. Going by the price of the D25A Clicky (around £35) I was hoping for Fenix calibre, although the multiple levels, strobe functions and relatively high output made me slightly dubious. Well it is a nicely put together light. The body is HAIII hard anodisation aerospace aluminium with a proper glass lens and it's all IPX8 standard waterproof. Very nice knurling, no blemishes and very solid in the hand. It also features a very sturdy pocket clip that I find very useful (this can be removed).

    Close up on the finish of the D25A:

    Having said that, I think fenix just edge it in the quality department for me. It's the little details but they make all the difference; the EagleTac's walls feel slightly thinner, the O-rings are less substantial, no anodising on the threads...oh and a shoddy lanyard! The lanyard shown attached to my D25A in the photos is actually a Fenix lanyard I use instead...far superior in my book.

    EagleTac lanyard above, Fenix lanyard bellow:

    First off the lanyard feels way too busy for a light this size but where it fails for me is when you attach it to the D25A...the clasp makes for an awkward fit through the lanyard hole and the split ring is poor quality. By poor I mean I would in no way trust my light to it; the Fenix lanyard can be yanked on all day long, but one hearty yank on the EagleTac lanyard and I bent the split ring wide open. Off to the bits box it went and I attached a Fenix lanyard instead (the D25A is way too nice to be ignored just because of a lanyard). It seems bizarre EagleTac would skimp on the lanyard when they supply such a high quality belt pouch...

    ...now I don't like solid pouches and will never use it for its intended purpose (I much prefer a soft nylon sheath) but that is not to deny its quality. Solidly made and flawlessly finished. I was amazed it was a freebie on such a small light (you get nada with the LD15).

    With the negatives out of the way I'd like to say that from here on in the D25A blew me away and has become my most pocketed light. Despite a cigarette paper less fit and finish it manages to pretty much smash the LD15 overall.

    Just a pinch larger than the Fenix LD15 (and at 24g just 3g heavier):

    Considerably smaller than your average multimode tail clicky AA (Fenix LD12 shown below):

    Here's one last comparison to an old classic who's size most should be familiar with (Surefire 6PLED):

    In the hand:

    The D25A has multiple modes and is operated by both twisting the head and a tail switch. The tail switch feels well made and responsive (also capable of perfect wobble-free tailstanding)...

    ...With the head firmly tightened a full click of the tail switch activates a Turbo mode of 141 Lumens (this is a reverse clicky so there is no half press for momentary on). Subsequent soft presses of the tail switch flick between Turbo and strobe, full press again to switch off. Slightly loosening the head allows for the sub modes to be accessed. When the head is in the loosened position a full press will bring the light on in low mode at 4 lumens or 0.5 lumens moon mode (rapidly tightening and loosening the head 3 times in a row when in low mode toggles moon mode on and off. The D25A will remember the mode you have selected letting you have your low permanently set to moon mode). Subsequent soft presses of the tail switch then cycle through medium mode at 20 lumens (or 10 lumens moon mode), high mode at 85 lumens, then back through low medium and high again, before progressing through several strobe, SOS and beacon modes.

    This diagram from the EagleTac website illustrates this far more clearly than my gibberish :

    I find the wide range of outputs fantastic and the bells and whistles are always fun to play with too! I always have moon mode selected, letting me go from 0.5 lumens right up to 141 depending on my needs. After a quick play the interface becomes second nature and the soft pressing feels particularly lovely.

    Here is the CREE XM-L2 U2 that delivers all those lumens (This is the Cool White version, also available is the Neutral White XM-L2 T6 which gives 7% less output than it's Cool counterpart):

    Note the 'very light orange peel aluminium reflector'. It does indeed have a 'very light' orange peel texture and this produces a nice clean beam, with a noticeably smoother transition between spill and hotspot than the LD15. Constant current regulation means no pulse-width modulation.

    Center lux: 800 lux
    Center spot angle: 17°
    Spill light angle: 74°
    Beam distance: 62 yards / 57 meters

    Runtimes on Eneloops:

    Turbo - 1.3hrs
    High - 2.5hrs
    Medium - 20hrs
    Low - 150+hrs

    The D25A Clicky also has the ability to be whacked into direct drive by a 14500 li-ion getting 750 lumens out of it apparently! Eagletac recommend you only do this for a maximum of 5 minutes at a time and 'blow cool air towards the light' Good luck! I've not tested this yet but it sounds fun so I'll try get some direct drive beam shots up when I get chance

    Speaking of beamshots here is the D25A compared with the LD15 and the larger single AA Fenix LD12...

    Close up indoors (far wall at approx 20ft):

    It has a pretty good balance between flood and spill for such a small light, outperforming the LD15 and easily out-spilling the throwier LD12 at this distance. The stated lumens also seem pretty accurate. Note that even though this is the Cool White version the beam is noticeably warmer than both of the Fenix lights (it has a pretty yellow tint if you ask me). You can also see that the LD15 has a less bright but more distinct hotspot, the transition between flood and spot far smoother on the D25A.

    A little more distance outdoors (tree at approx 50ft):

    The D25A is still just slightly floodier than the LD12 but suffering with throw a bit here out over 50ft, lacking the LD12's piercing hotspot. But then the D25A is by no means a dedicated thrower with a deep reflector...its a tincy wincy AA pocket light (easily one of the smallest with a tail clicky) and I'm certainly impressed. Not sure how it would do out over the claimed 57 meters (187 ft) but I'll try get some beamshots if the opportunity presents itself.

    So there you go...if you're after an LD15 sized tail clicky you won't go far wrong with this. It has endured daily carry now for a few months, suffering plenty of drops, dings and being constantly sat on in my back pocket and so far it's fairing tremendously well. Works first time every time with no weird jumping between modes and flickery activations that I have found on some hi-tech 2 bazzilion multi-mode lights I've used before. I certainly wouldn't want to give up the pocket clip or the tail switch now I've carried this.

    Well I hope someone finds this useful! Here is one last pic to end on...

    Cheers for now,

    This article was originally published in forum thread: EagleTac D25A Clicky Review (CREE XM-L2 U2) started by Uke View original post
  • Subscribe

    Become a subscibing member by clicking the button below.

  • Sponsored Links..

  • Sponsored Links...

  • Recent Forum Activity


    What EDC are you carrying today?

    Thread Starter: avoidspam

    Thought I'd give this a go. Sorry if it's been tried before but I quite like the version on the other side of the pond. Everyone gets a bit creative with their camera's... Plus it's a nice opportunity to see what's out there....:) Sam

    Last Post By: ted2 Yesterday, 08:46 PM Go to last post
    Albert E

    Birds,bugs etc,around us!!

    Thread Starter: Albert E

    Hi!!We all see and sometimes take pictures of animals around our house,or during our travel vacations!!Here some!!Maybe you have a few from your area too!! A mantis in my garden.

    Last Post By: Albert E Yesterday, 06:56 PM Go to last post
    Celtic Dragon

    Lets see your rifles?

    Thread Starter: Celtic Dragon

    As mine is still in the smiths (and has been for 6 weeks and no end in sight) The parts I have here are being fantasy pimped :D For those results you'll have to wait a few days. In the mean time to aliviate my suffering, lets see yours :D be it pcp, springer, rimmie or centrefire.

    Last Post By: John56 Today, 01:40 AM Go to last post
    Simon G

    Let's See Your Pistols

    Thread Starter: Simon G

    So, in the "let's see your rifles" thread, Rapidboy suggested a pistol thread. And as we always listen to the mods on here, let's give RB what he wants! (As opposed to what he needs!:D ) For UK mainland residents, obviously muzzle loaders and air. But for our friends in the not so discriminated...

    Last Post By: johnbaz Today, 12:42 AM Go to last post

    Devil-forge from Lithuania: Is it any good?

    Thread Starter: PSY

    As seen here: http://www.devil-forge.com/forges/DFPROF2%20-%20two%20burners.htm Has anyone had any experience with the company or their products? Does it seem like decent equipment for a hobbyist? Edited to add: I bought me one of their horseshoe maker models in the end and to answer my...

    Last Post By: ggfh666 Yesterday, 03:39 PM Go to last post

    Pattern welded blades

    Thread Starter: Jorgen

    Hi, Here are my first knives with pattern welded blades. The blades are made from NC6 steel and old iron and based on finds from early medieval era. Complete knives with sheaths pictures will follow :)

    Last Post By: Jorgen Yesterday, 07:06 PM Go to last post

    A few Wildcamp pics

    Thread Starter: bondy

    here is a few pics from a few wild camps iv done thought you might like to see them. feel free to post any pics you might have . DSC_6047 by warren bond, on Flickr DSC_6006 by warren bond, on Flickr DSC_5942 by warren bond, on Flickr DSC_6094 by warren bond, on Flickr DSC_6019 by warren bond,...

    Last Post By: bondy Yesterday, 06:26 AM Go to last post

    Puukko & leuku

    Thread Starter: dankobananko

    Hi guys, this is my first attempt to make puukko-leuku pair. Puukko is 95mm blade and leuku 200mm. Steel is 80crv2. Handle is stabilized black locust burl. Hope you liked..;)

    Last Post By: EdgePal Yesterday, 12:17 PM Go to last post

    Overcoming loctite

    Thread Starter: BGC_Tom

    Hi all, So I recently bought a Bradford Guardian 3, along with a pair of ‘3D’ micarta scales to replace the G10 ones. The problem is, when I came to take the old scales off I just could not budge the screws! I’ve already broken one driver bit (one of those two-prong ‘spanner’ bits) and still...

    Last Post By: PuukkoJim Yesterday, 09:43 PM Go to last post

    Japanese boning Knife

    Thread Starter: camperman

    Here is my idea of a Hankotsu boning knife. Ironwood scales. 12c27 steel.

    Last Post By: mikew Yesterday, 08:09 PM Go to last post
  • Alexa

    Review britishblades.com on alexa.com