Two brick forge

[ZDP-189]

Why two bricks and not one?

Well, this is the main reason:



As you can see, it's much easier to make a forge in two parts than to accurately hollow one out through the front aperture. With a router and 3/4" round bit, I hollowed both sides out in record time. I could probably knock these forges out at the rate of one an hour to this standard. Cost so far is about £2.50...

But does it perform?



With such a small internal dimension (3"h x 2.5"w x 6.5"d)the start up time is about a minute. This is the initial heat from a basic MAPP gas hand-held venturi burner.

I have no external casing at this point because I have yet to coat the inside with ITC-100, seal it with refractory cement and then wrap chicken-wire or something similar round it.

It is really unsafe to run this way, but I just had to fire it up.

You can see below the second reason why I used two bricks; you get a slightly more generous cavity than with one brick and you can better manoevure your piece around the flame jet.

The third reason is that I get better insulation this way. I left exactly 1" of firebrick around all sides. Those are plastic WorkMate lugs holding it in place. At the end of my test runs, the top brick was pretty hot, but didn't burn my hand when I touched it (again, don't try this at home and if you do, don't blame me if something goes wrong).



Here it is with the lights down low. I am using vise-grips, which wouldn't be a good idea for rorging, but makes things easier when juggling a MAPP burner, piece of 5160 and a digital camera.



This image looks like I have the tip way too hot, but actually it's only about mid-red and ready for work. If I were forging, I'd want to soak it and work the jet around the billet to spread the heat. But you get the idea.



At this point, I figured I'd try different burners. I have quite a few to choose from. Besides the MAPP burner, I have a Oxy-Acetylene porta-pack, a forced air + LPG burner, a forced air + white spirits burner, a way OTT T-Rex burner... and this ... an ordinary butane-fired cigar lighter. I planned to use it for lighting the MAPP burner, but hey, why not give it a try?



It did OK, not nearly as impressive and the much more powerful MAPP gun, but it did get fairly warm in there.



At this point I stuck the test bar in.



And it did manage to get the heat up into the forgeable range. Clearly, I'd need a better burner than this, but it illustrates the efficiency of this forge.



I may as well finish it up with a shell, or at least a binding. I'd also like to see whether the ITC-100 has much effect, before I decide whether to shelve it as a curiosity, or put it to some use.

[Kevin]

The sky is now the limit.


I am thinking that you may get a better performance if you angle the burner so the heat swirls more, rather than it directly hitting the side if the steel.?

ps ..your shop floor needs a sweep

[ZDP-189]

The sad thing is that I swept the floor before I decided to begin the project, Kevin.

[Iron_Heinie]

Whats the point in sweepng anyway? Wait till it gets about ankle deep......

Good looking little forge you've got there. Its a nice handy size, I beleive I'll have a go at making one out of some leftover fire brick i will have from a larger forge project.

[Otto]

What exactly are the dangers of the one/ two brickforge?
Can the brick explode?

OØ

[MattW]

That's looks great
I just need to find someone locally who'll sell me this type of block in small quantities.
Matt

[ZDP-189]

Can anyone volunteer to send Matt a couple of soft bricks?

If you can't find any, Matt, I can always mail you a set of carved bricks.

[Sajuma]

Looking good mate! Just two little things...
If you keep the torche / flame 1-3 cm out from the hole, you can get your cavity hotter. Remember that the flames hotspot is not the tip of the visible flame but bit further.
Also...
If you add little hole on the opposite side of "bladehole" your tongs, wise grip and your fingers wont get so hot. My forge is also made with two bricks, it's bit same type but my cavity is oval shaped.

Juha

[keith_beef]

That's looks great
I just need to find someone locally who'll sell me this type of block in small quantities.
Matt

I bought ten of them from Ceradel in Limoges.
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/...4&postcount=16
You can buy just a single brick from there.

Ceradel is the same groups as Potterycrafts, in Stoke.


Campbell Road
GB Stoke - on - trent ST4 4ET
Tél : 00 (44) 1 782 745 000
Fax : 00 (44) 1 782 746 000
http://www.potterycrafts.co.uk


Keith.

[Basemetal]

Inspired! and inspirational!

Now I need to figure out where I can get bricks. Exactly what kindof bricks am I looking for...?

[JohanB]

really nice...I need to find a couple of those bricks......havent found any in norway yet, except some of those which are really hard.

What burner are you going to use, and do you have any source for it?

Thanks,

Johan

[keith_beef]

Inspired! and inspirational!

Now I need to figure out where I can get bricks. Exactly what kindof bricks am I looking for...?

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/...4&postcount=16

http://www.potterycrafts.co.uk/extra...ilnspares.html

Keith.

[ZDP-189]

You're looking for soft firebricks. They have a lot of uses, from kiln walls to brazing stations and even ... forges!

Expect to pay around £1.25 each.

I used a MAPP burner. I have several posible burners and which I end up using depends on the performance once I get it sprayed with ITC-100.

[Otto]

really nice...I need to find a couple of those bricks......havent found any in norway yet, except some of those which are really hard.
Johan

I boughts mine at Monter. A big block of SIPOREX for about £5
Its 10x20x50 cm ca.


OØ

[keith_beef]

You're looking for soft firebricks. They have a lot of uses, from kiln walls to brazing stations and even ... forges!

Expect to pay around £1.25 each.

I used a MAPP burner. I have several posible burners and which I end up using depends on the performance once I get it sprayed with ITC-100.

Where can you get them for such a low price, Zed?


Keith.