Lubes and stuff

[Hellz]

They are sending me a sample of each and would probably do the same if you asked them nicely too.

Regards

PigglyWiggly

I'll give it a go, thanks muchly

Hellz

[WigglePig]

Right.

The samples arrived this morning so I gave them to the lab here and they have looked closely at them.

The grease is probably CL (waterproof grease) with extreme pressure additives, nothing special according to the lab.
The oil is a high quality synthetic 30 weight oil also with EP additives. ie: high quality gear oil.

Mind you, they seem to work quite well on my Leatherman...wouldn't put it near either of my motors though. :-)

ttfn

WigglePig

[andybingley]

Took a look at the Militec-1 site and I quote

"When MILITEC-1 is applied to a metal surface, it chemically reacts with, and is adsorbed by, the metal. The chemical reaction takes place at temperatures between 100°F and 150°F (38°C - 66°C) depending on friction and load conditions. The effect of the chemical reaction is a stiffening (not hardening) of the metal surface -- approximately seventeen times stiffer when the reaction is complete. The increased stiffness dramatically reduces friction and parasitic drag, just as when an under inflated tire is pumped up."

Does this mean I have to bake my folders in the oven to get the full effect.

If so what Gas Mark do people recomend?

[WigglePig]

I have to say that I am very sceptical about their claims and I have one very good reason.

Oil companies.

If there were such wonderous additives available then I would have expected at least one of the big oil companies to produce these oils or additive products themselves. The comments that I have seen from major oil companies and motor manufacturers are all quite definite that there are no noticeable benefits from using these products. Some motor manufacturers even go as far as to state that they would be very unlikely to meet any warranty claims relating to lubrication failures (bearings, etc) where these products have been used.

The only additive that my BMW mechanic said was OK to use in an oilhead bike engine were those containing zinc and phosphorus compounds as they can help where there is metal to metal contact, not that there ever should be in a road machine. Never ever use them in a machine with a catalytic converter though as they can damage the catalyst (which is why the zinc and phosphorus content of oils has been much reduced in recent years.)

Anyway, I will see what the lab make of the samples and I'll let you know what goes on.

Incidentally, one of the machine shop chaps where I used to work suggested that a synthetic light oil, such as 20 or 30 weight turbine oil would be very suitable for use in folders and, indeed, that is precisely what is used by a couple of the major firearms manufacturers.

Tra for now...gotta go shopping. *waves*

WigglePig

[Jdee]

I don't use WD40 and I don't use Lano-Lube but I do use "Lanox" which is a spray with similar properties to WD40 but the primary ingredient is Lanolin. I haven't found any corrosive problems with it at all. It is esp., good in a marine environment.

Militec 1 - IMO the best. I've had a Leatherman Original for going on 5 years (50th birthday present if I remember correctly) and I had used WD40 and Lanox on it but it was still stiff to open - a few drops of Militec and it opens like my Spydercos now.

[daberti]

Ok, rust protection.

It goes without saying that the higher carbon content stainless steels are certainly prone to rust and plain carbon steels are very vulnurable to said oxidisation....................

General, I've a Benchmade BM630 Skirmish who started to develop very slight superficial rust (I can apparently remove even with mild cloth and water) just over the spine . Its in the form of small dots here and there.
I already use Militech-1 to lube the washers, but I don't really know how to address the rust issue.

Would you please help me?

Thanks in advance

[bardster]

On the subject of lubes - anyone have an opinion on white lightning?
I picked some up cheap at a local tool shop. It mostly seems to be used in the cycle commnity but the one I bought had buck knives plastered all over it as per
http://www.buckknives.com/catalog/detail/178/245

[The General]

White lightening is basically a white grease. Messy but effective.

Best way to deal with the rust spotting is to use a cleaner/polish like Flitz, give her a good rub down then apply Marine Tuf Cloth.

Regular treatment ought to do the trick.

[daberti]

Best way to deal with the rust spotting is to use a cleaner/polish like Flitz, give her a good rub down then apply Marine Tuf Cloth.

Regular treatment ought to do the trick.

Huge thanks

[Andy]

I've been playing about sorting out some knives whilst I've been at home and have so far have had the best results using Pace progel grease. It's lighter then the finishline grease but still holds things in place when your putting a knife back togeather. It doesn't seem to be quite so bad with pocket fluff. Feels just like the CRK stuff to me.
If I can't take the knife to bits then finish line cross country oil seems to work well. It's now being used on my swiss tool. Wont hold bits togeather but fine doesn't suffer from pocket fluff

PS finish line grease is meant for bearings not the chain

[Hector]

I use WD40 only for cleaning very dirty items and then it needs to be washed off.... but it is good for freeing up old slipjoints and making them more snappy, as long as they are not worn and as long as the WD40 is washed off after.

For storage, on tools I use a bit of raw linseed oil, it coats them and stops rust for years, 3 in 1 is ok for tools as well.

For anything that will touch food, I always use a small amount of liquid paraffin, which is mineral oil. It is clear and viscous and you only need a small amount, otherwise you will be pooing for England, since it is a laxative, but it a safe food product. It is used as an additive/preservative in lots of food products. It is also good if you are going to store your knife for a long time.

I have knives that are 60 years old, wrapped in greaseproof paper and with a small amount of mineral oil on them, as they came from the factory, in perfect condition.

It does not damage bone or stag or horn, and will actually rehydrate these materials, closing up any shrink gaps that might appear over the years.

It is also good for cleaning and reconditioning old bone and stag handles.

The effects of any oil and grease on handle materials need to be borne in mind....

[Noddy]

Can't imagine why I haven't thought of using liquid paraffin. Great idea, Hector

I tend to use olive oil or 3 in 1.

I used to use the same synthetic, polymer based lubricant that I put on my bike chain - one that doesn't gather fluff.

That was until I saw the 'do not induce vomiting' small print. It says it is non-toxic, but that was enough to scare me off.

I also noticed that CRK used to recommend WD40 for the blade, and "a good gun-oil like 3 in 1" for the pivot.


n

[Andy]

I've found the best lube so far for lack of pocket fluss attraction

Finish Line wax lube, comes in a little bottle just like the oil sold here
only trouble is the parts must be really clean when you first put it on and it's a bit runny to start with, once dry you can scrap it off bits whe yuo don't want it. It also seems to give a really good coating for rust protection

[McKenzie]

many thanks foer a usefull thread!
Steve

[dkonopinski]

I've been using Parker-Hale Express Gun Oil on my folders and it seems to work well. Cleans well & has a rust inhibitor in there somewhere. Doesn't have a strong pong and doesn't dry out quickly. It was recommended by a friend who keeps a 12-bore and I found it in a local field sports shop. Packaged like 3-1n-1 and less than a fiver. David.