Rewaxing your Barbour Jacket (vid)

[minds_eye]

Stumbled upon this video and thought it might be helpful.

I've only got a little barbour bag that I was to reproof but still nice step by step guide is good

http://www.selectism.com/news/2011/0...-your-barbour/

[ANDYLASER]

Excellent video.

The last jacket I reproofed, I used a paintbrush to apply the wax and put the jacket into the tumble dryer afterwards.

I do not recommend the latter as there will be much domestic unrest.

[Noddy]

bundle of wet twigs and a firesteel and up goes the stove

[jerbal]

Excellent video.

The last jacket I reproofed, I used a paintbrush to apply the wax and put the jacket into the tumble dryer afterwards.

I do not recommend the latter as there will be much domestic unrest.

I blew mine over with a hot hairdryer outside to even out the coating and it worked alright.

[minds_eye]

Has anyone tried this on canvas kit that was previously unwaxed? Not sure if it'll end up looking a anywhere near decent.

[a6cjn]

I blew mine over with a hot hairdryer outside to even out the coating and it worked alright.

That's the way I've always done mine

Chris

[ANDYLASER]

Yes. I reproofed a normal combat jacket using barbour wax. I used the whole tin, which was probably overkill. It has remained waterproof for almost 25 years. It is also impervious to oil, brake fluid and battery acid!!

Whatever you treat, will end up looking darker than it was originally. If you use a good hairdryer, or a heat gun, you can get a good finish.

[Basemetal]

Has anyone tried this on canvas kit that was previously unwaxed? Not sure if it'll end up looking a anywhere near decent.

A lot depends on how tight the weave is on the fabric. Barbour use very dense Egyptian cotton IIRC and British Army Combat jackets are pretty tight weave too.
An open canvas weave could have problems, but a tight one wouldn't. Windproof might be the standard -if the material is natural and windproof then it's a candidate for wax proofing, if not either the wax won't penetrate the synthetic threads, or the open weave will hold too much of it, leavin gyou with a sticky heavy mess.

The fjallraven approach with solid 10/90 bees/praffin wax is maybe worth trying as it's reversible (washes out without destroying you WM ).

[HPFlashman]

The fjallraven approach with solid 10/90 bees/praffin wax is maybe worth trying as it's reversible (washes out without destroying you WM ).

The Fjallraven has been a mainstay in keeping dry in cotton for me for quite awhile -just dont use the Iron to spread it out with or as Andylaser put it: "I do not recommend the latter as there will be much domestic unrest. "

[Chui]

After proofing mine I put it on and stood next to my wife, chatted to her about the futility of shopping malls. Factory finish.......

[Dogoak]

Yep, I agree with the hairdryer method, works a treat. I did have an old Barbour that got misplaced, when i eventually found it, about a year later, it smelled a bit ripe and had some wonderfull mold and fungus growth. My home grown solution was to bung it in the washing machine (not telling SWMBO), to be honest it was due for a wax when i lost it, so there was not a lot to foul the machine and I did run an empty hot wash after to cover my tracks Dried it and rewaxed it, with the hair dryer finish it came up really well.

[MeetTheGeeks]

Nikwax do a trigger spray reproofer. I used it last time I proofed my jacket. Its like spraying milk onto the coat mat first then you rub it with a rag to form the 'wax' and it soaks in. It does work, but on a long drovers coat my hand ached from all the trigger action. I hand the jacket from the washing line through the sleeves to make it look crucified. It seems to give me access to the arm pit seams.

[Mr Happymoose]

I have used a aerosol wax spray in the past and got very good results. Cleaned the jacket then hung it up on the garden washing line and sprayed liberally. Went over it with a hairdryer a couple of times afterwards and it looked like new. Was definitely an easier way to do a full length jacket LOL!!