Hidden tang or full tang

**Dave Barker** · 08-10-03, 09:16 AM

Just a query... what is best?

**Trond** · 08-10-03, 09:21 AM

Both. :-)
Trond

**PS_Bond** · 08-10-03, 09:22 AM

What is "best"?

**Trond** · 08-10-03, 09:23 AM

That was the question! LMAO Better

**keith_beef** · 08-10-03, 09:28 AM

Originally Posted by Dave Barker

Just a query... what is best?

Hmmm... a good question, Dave.

Are you deliberately trying to start an argument? ;-)

As always, my answer is "it depends".

I have a full tang knife, carbon steel. There are some small stains on the tang, where my sweaty, salty hand has rubbed the metal. A hidden tang would not have this problem.

And imagine a knife that might be used in an emergency to cut an electrical wire, that may be live... you don't want the juice finding a path to earth through the tang, your hand and body. So again, a hidden tang would be better.

You could say that a stick tang, while being well protected from corrosion, is less robust than a full tang.

Aesthetically, a hidden tang gives you a certain look, that may be important. A full tang allows you to do some fancy filework, or have a visible taper.

There's are compromises between the visually hidden stick tang, and the mechanically robust full tang. I'm not sure if these are the right terms, but the Japanese "stub" tang, and the "rabbet" (or "rebated") tang spring to mind...

.

**MushiSushi** · 08-10-03, 09:39 AM

It's too vague a catagory to answer properly, there's so many versions, but I would say that a well made but encapsulated or morticed tang would be best for insulation reasons, as it has the strength, yet still the protection from cold and electrical current, etc. Was it you Pete that mentioned the contradiction between Lofties knife and knife philosophies?

**PS_Bond** · 08-10-03, 09:51 AM

I think I may have mentioned it..

IIRC, one of Lofty's points was that it was easier (?) to replace a handle on a stick tang knife than a full tang.

I find full tang handles easier to make than hollowing a handle for a stick tang. But then I've made more full tang knives than I have stick tang...

Some makers would argue that a full tang gives a stronger construction as you have more steel; others that a stick tang is stronger because it is fully encapsulated (and additionally protected from corrosion at the edges of the tang).

The next few I make up will probably be stick tang. If only for the practice.

**MushiSushi** · 08-10-03, 10:03 AM

the insulation benefits are all I can see. Replacing the handle? ..... hmmm only if you happen to have some 2 part construction adhesive in the field...... or a large swarm of Coccus lacca beetles happen to be in the neighbourhood

..... if you gotta replace the handle, the handle wasn't well made ........ sorry ... hang, draw and quater me ...... but i have to disagree with his Loftyship

..... I still think of a full, but encapsulated or morticed tang as the best all round option.

**PS_Bond** · 08-10-03, 10:08 AM

Pine resin, not epoxy.

**keith_beef** · 08-10-03, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by MushiSushi

the insulation benefits are all I can see. Replacing the handle? ..... hmmm only if you happen to have some 2 part construction adhesive in the field...... or a large swarm of Coccus lacca beetles happen to be in the neighbourhood

..... if you gotta replace the handle, the handle wasn't well made ........ sorry ... hang, draw and quater me ...... but i have to disagree with his Loftyship

..... I still think of a full, but encapsulated or morticed tang as the best all round option.

That brings us back to Dave's post about shellac. Maybe you should carry a small pouch of powdered shellac to use as glue.

You could, I suppose, use shellac to glue the scales onto a full tang, as well. Probably easier that trying to make rivets or screws in the field...

Are there some other uses for shellac, like antiseptic, firelighter, flavouring, that would justify carrying it as part of your kit?

.

**MushiSushi** · 08-10-03, 10:15 AM

I suppose any kind of sap would do... if you have the time to sit around and wait for it to harden

..... but if you have a knife that you need to re handle and sap would do ..... the first handle couldn't have been up too much

**MushiSushi** · 08-10-03, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by PS_Bond

Pine resin, not epoxy.

I prefer methacrylate, better resistance properties

**MushiSushi** · 08-10-03, 10:21 AM

Originally Posted by keith_beef

That brings us back to Dave's post about shellac. Maybe you should carry a small pouch of powdered shellac to use as glue.

You could, I suppose, use shellac to glue the scales onto a full tang, as well. Probably easier that trying to make rivets or screws in the field...

Are there some other uses for shellac, like antiseptic, firelighter, flavouring, that would justify carrying it as part of your kit?

.

The coccus lacca beetle

**Trond** · 08-10-03, 10:26 AM

And there is nothing wrong by using epoxy, you can heat the blade and loosen it by uning epoxy too, I know because i did just that yesterday. I heated a "tang?" red and hold the blade with it for a couple of minutes, and i came loose. Removed the rest of the epoxy and replaced it with new. The knife is now better than it was, cause i replaced the blade with one of mine LOL
Trond

**PS_Bond** · 08-10-03, 10:27 AM

Cutlers resin
(There has also been a lengthy thread about this on CKD)

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