Stitching Tips

[Tiffers]

Some stitching pictures......





Thats stitched at 8 to the inch through 4 layers of 4mm bridle leather. I knocked it up in a hurry to show the slant of the thread in a correctly aligned stitch. Most stitching awl blades are diamond shaped and if you align these up with the slanted pricking iron mark then you get stitchings which all align the same and that are even and look nice.



These next ones are versions on a backstitch.

As I have previously said about backstitch, its really one that is used when stitching leather onto fabric. I go into that a bit more HERE .

Usually with a backstitch, the look of the front of the stitch is exactly the same as if you had done a double handed or saddle stitch. The reverse is where the difference lays. With double handed stitching you continuously work in the same direction, with backstitch its a bit like "two steps forward, one step back". You can reverse the stitch so that the front becomes the back and the slanted back becomes the decorative front. Thats what I have done in the following pictures.

Just a quick explaination about how a backstitch is constructed. Basically you create a hole, thread the single needle through so that the end of the thread comes up to the hole. Then you put the needle through the hole you create on the other side of the first hole to yourself (assuming you are stitching towards yourself and that the item is held in some clams or similar). You then bring the needle back past the first hole to one to the third hole which has been created on the side of the first hole closest to yourself. This creates a loop on the backside of the leather. Then you take the needle and pass it back through the FIRST hole you made. It comes out of the reverse and has to then either go under or over the loop. This is where the differences can be created for decorative stitching.



In the picture above, the needle was taken alternately over then under the loop. This creates a brick effect.



In this second picture, the needle has been taken under the loop which creates a straight slanted stitch.



In the third picture, the needle has been taken over the loop and you have a slightly curved slanted stitch.

I posted these up to illustrate the slight slanted lay of normal saddle stitching and the differences with backstitch.

Tiffers


I have to thank MBM for taking those pictures! The small scale of them caused me many headaches when I was trying to photograph them!

[singteck]

Hi Tiffers

Thank you for the post. I have been doing some leather works for a while now. Still wet behind the ears

Can you show the photo for the back of the saddle stitch? I can produce the slant on the face but my back stitch is not slanted. Is that correct? Or am i doing something wrong?

Thank you once again for sharing.

singteck

[Tiffers]

hi Singteck, glad to have you here at BB

The reverse of the saddle stitch isnt usually slanted because of a couple of reasons. Firstly, the pricking irons which mark the stitches on the good side of the leather help to create the slant. As you dont mark the stitches on the reverse you dont get this assistance. Also, the awl blade that makes the stitches is less diamond shaped the closer you get to the very point which means you are not getting any assistance from this area either.

When you do a saddle stitch you must remember to wrap the thread over the second needle when it comes out of the reverse of the leather. This helps to create the knot inside each stitch but will also help you to create an even and neat reverse. For some people it also helps to create a slight slant. I have to say this doesnt happen for me as my stitches on the reverse tend to be straight but someone I once worked with stitched exactly the same as I did but his slanted.

Hope this helps!

Tiffers

[singteck]

Thank you

I do not wrap the thread over the second needle. I find that when i do that, my front side slant is no longer there but my back side is slanted! hahahahaha
must be doing something wrong there.

More practice i suppose.

Once again thank you

singteck

[Tiffers]

When you pull the stitch tight, try making sure the thread just passes over the needle once. Also, when you are pulling tight, if you pull your left hand up and your right hand down it should also position the thread in the right place to get the slant.

Tiffers

[singteck]

Right!

Thank you for the fast reply.

singteck

[Tiffers]

My pleasure! let me know how you get on.

Tiffers

[singteck]

Hi Tiffers

I have manage to have slants on both side of my stitching. Thanks to you.

I marked both pieces of leather separately then prick both leather with an opposite slant. No problem after that.

But it takes a lot longer to stitch now.

But it's worth it just for the look.

Thank you for showing the way

singteck

[Tiffers]

As I was stitching away this morning, I was trying to analyse what I was doing to see if there was anything I did which made life easier. I came up with a couple of things....

If you are working by creating a hole then putting the thread through it then making another hole...try to keep the awl in your hand at all times. It really cuts down on the time it takes per stitch if you dont constantly have to put down then pick up your awl. It also increases the chance of the awl being set at the same angle in your hand which will keep the stitches all at the same angle too.

When stitching and you are having a few problems getting the right hand needle to go through the hole, try using the awl handle to push it through then once it starts moving, pull the thread of the first needle back through the hole slightly. If you have waxed your thread enough, it will grab the needle slightly and pull it back through with itself.

Tiffers

[singteck]

I usually punch all the holes first before i start stitching. I think the main problem in using your method would be (to me anyway) the lack of a sewing clam and at ~£50 it's very expensive for me since i am not getting any profit from it.

Maybe one day...........

singteck

[singteck]

oh yes i forgot to mention..... i made a belt pouch last night and a knife shealth just now. No camera to show off the sstuffs unfortunately.

Running low on leather now. Have to make a trip to london soon to resupply.

hehe

singteck

[Medium John]

I usually punch all the holes first before i start stitching. I think the main problem in using your method would be (to me anyway) the lack of a sewing clam and at ~£50 it's very expensive for me since i am not getting any profit from it.

Maybe one day...........

singteck

Singteck mate, there is an alternative to full on sadlers clamps, If you contact http://www.theidentitystore.co.uk/ you can order a "stitching pony" from them (item # 313200) for £16 plus postage, I got one and tryed it. It's comfortable enough and tall enough to slip it under you thighs and work with it between your legs.

Hope that helps.

MJ

[Medium John]

The catalouges worth getting too.

[singteck]

Thank you Medium John

I will contact them tomorrow to find out more.


singteck

[Wild Rose]

Or you can make your own stitch pony (as we know it over here in the "Colonies" ) -


click her for a How to Make a Stitch Pony tutorial