Folder buildalong (Finished)

[Russell White]

Hi folks, following on from this thread and after discussing with the mods it has been decided to leave this buildalong in the matrix for the time being as opposed to members projects as we agreed it would be unfair to others posting there to have this keep bumping their thread down.

So, here we go. For this I will be using ironwood scales and nickel silver for bolsters. Anyone not wanting to use bolsters can epoxy the scales to the webbs for now.



First job is to fit the bolsters. I've gone off soldering bolsters lately as i got sick of them coming off when they got hot while working them so I pin them on now.

To get the bolster size correct I measure the distance from the top of the blade pivot hole and then double that distance from the bottom of the pivot hole, they're 22mm for this knife.

Spacing the holes like this ensures the bolster is held equally at the top and bottom so prevents any gaps.

Next I use a jig to rest the bolsters up against while drilling to make sure they match up on either side. I made one from steel as I use it often but for a one off it can be made from paper, card, plastic or anything really.

Next job is to cut the bolsters to rough size

Then I file the end of the bolsters that meets the scales square. It is worth taking the time to ensure they are perfectly square as it will save a lot of time and effort later.

Next I use a punch to make slight indentations in the webbs as a guide for drilling the bolsters
roughly central and halfway between pivot hole and where the bolster bottom will be.

Next I use 3 nails to hold the jig in place against the webb while I fit the bolster. The bolster goes on the opposite side to where I made the identation.

I then hold the bolster up against the jig using mole grips. The bolster is kept held in the mole grips now until riveted on.

Next I drill the hole the same size as the pins, 2.5mm

To countersink the hole I use a 3.5mm drill and taper the end 1cm and countersink to about half the thickness of the bolster and half the thickness of the webb.

Next up I pin the bolster to the webb and file the pin flat on both sides (leaving about 1.5-2mm on either side) and rivet.

And the final job with the bolsters is to glaze/file them down flush to the webbs and glaze/file the rivet heads down flush

Fitting scales to follow....

Russell

[Russell White]

Next up, fitting the scales.

Firstly I mark the handle shape out on the scales and rough shape them

Then epoxy the scales to the webbs and clamp up and leave to dry.

After the epoxy has set I drill the thee holes in the scales using the same 2.5mm drill and glaze the scales flush with the webbs all round

Next I taper the scales from just below the top pin to almost flush with the bolsters then countersink the three holes. I taper the scales first so that when shaping I dont go below the countersink

Then I pin the scales and file the top of the pins flat, this hole needs a minimal amount of pin, about 1mm either side and rivet them

Lastly for the handles I finish the inside of the webbs, I've glazed and lightly polished these but they can be left just fine glazed. When glazing/polishing the insides I take care to not let them to get too hot as if they get too hot it will cause the epoxy to fail.

Preparation of the blades and springs is just a case of glazing and if required, polishing.

For the front edge of the blade I use a small sanding drum but a half round file works just as well. The spring is just glazed/filed and I then polish the inside of the spring, the front and sides of the tang

Next up is assembling the knife...

[Bazza]

Great tutorial Russ, you did all that in 4 minutes! What thickness are the bolsters?

Barry

[Russell White]

Time to start putting the knife together.

First I assemble the handle

Then I fine glaze and polish the front of the knife as it cant be done once the blade is in so this will be the final finish

Next is fitting the blade, I taper the pin to make fitting easier then I place the blade inside the handle with the hole in the blade roughly level with the bolster holes

Then I put the blade/handle in vice, holding the handle tight and tighten the vice to push the spring back and line the holes up and fit pin but dont cut the pin off yet

Before I cut the pin i glaze the area between where the blade and spring meet to check the joints are correct. The spring should be flush to the scales open and closed. If the spring is sticking up when the blade is closed the blade needs taking out and a little more glazing/filing off the front edge of the tang

Once I have the joint correct its time to rivet it up. Starting with the blade I use a thin piece of steel to prevent the blade over tightening, I made this out of an old table knife blade but anything about 10 thou thick will do and is placed between the blade and scale on one side. Or, it can be riveted without a spacer but it would need doing a little at a time and checking often and just til the blade has no side to side play. When riveting either way I hammer 6 or so times on one side turn over and do the same on the other side and make a sort of mushroom shape on the pin then when I have the mushroom shape on both sides I hammer a few more times to drive the pin into the hole and keep repeating until finished, this will make sure the blade lies central in the handle when closed.

Next i rivet the handle, for this i use a spacer (wych) inserted between the scales to stop the front of the handle closing up

After riveting I rough and fine glaze the rest of the back of the spring and blade and the tips of the bolsters

Lastly for now, with it starting to look like a knife, I glaze the tops of the pins in the handle and bolsters flush ready for shaping and final finish tomorrow.

More soon...

[Stew]

Having to solder bolsters has put me off trying them so this is excellent! I may have to try some now!!

[camperman]

I'm being sent on a two day braising course next week.
To braise or to rivet?, that is the question.
Thanks Russell

[zorro]

To braise or to rivet?, that is the question.

You could always do both. Belt and braces.

[Essexman]

You make it look so easy Russ !

Cheers

[Relin]

Will Epoxy not hold them?

[Russell White]

Will Epoxy not hold them?

Its not something I've ever tried but I cant see how you would be able to keep the bolsters/webbs cool enough while working them to stop the epoxy failing.

I have been proved wrong before though

[Relin]

I had a similar conundrum with brass liners for a fixed blade but due to a large quantity of pins used it didn't move enough to be an issue. Food for thought

[tasum]

can I ask a daft question? How do you "rivet " the pin in. Is it just a question of smakcing it with a hammer or is there some other wizardry required?

thanks, great tutorial

[Gumbob]

I've decided to go without the bolsters. Its not that I dont like them but I found a nice piece of thuya burl and decided to go with that for the full handle. One scale epoxied waiting to cure and hopefully get the other on today. Looking forward to the next step Russell

Cheers....Ian

[Russell White]

can I ask a daft question? How do you "rivet " the pin in. Is it just a question of smakcing it with a hammer or is there some other wizardry required?

thanks, great tutorial

When riveting the pins i hit the pin on all sides to make a sort of mushroom shape and once I've got that shape I hit it a few more times to drive the pin into the hole, this should fill the hole and leave it invisible when finished. When I rivet the blade later I will try and get some close ups to show it better.

[Russell White]

I've updated the post for fitting the scales.