lets see your bushcraft knife.

[spookypistolero]

Welcome to BB, spookypistolero (great username).

Like that Tora, and you've just reminded me I need to get a magnesium block before I go away, cheers!

If I'm not mistaken the rucksack in MikeDB's photo is a Karrimor Sabre 30l. It's widely considered the bushcrafting pack to have.

Here's a link.

Enjoy the forum.

Thanks much for the info! I believe I have seen that pack around other forums and admired it. I don't think they are terribly common on this side of the pond. I have a jansport pack that actually reminds me a lot of that Karrimor, I'll have to find a pic of it.

Thanks, too, for the welcome! Looks like a very fun place to hang out. I'm sure I'll be around often.

Hope you get the mag block and have instant, warm flames!

-Spooky

[Prophecy]

What's the rod type thingy on the keyring?

[luresalive]

What's the rod type thingy on the keyring?

looks like a ceramic rod..

[luresalive]

Hello all-

I'm brand spanking new around here and on the other side of the ocean, but was wondering if I could add my own bush blade to the thread. This is my Tora bushcraft model with an edge touch up:


There are some really gorgeous blades in this thread, and made especially handsome by their well-used character.

To MikeDB- I really like your pack in the pic on the first page of this thread. Could you tell me what it is/ where you found it?

Thats a nice looking Knife, the "tora", where did you get it and what are it's dimensions??

[spookypistolero]

The white rod is indeed a ceramic rod, a Lansky. I got it here:
http://www.campingsurvival.com/lamidogbokns.html

I believe you can get them cheaper at Ragweedforge.com though, but without the rubber tips. They work very well in general at touching up blades.

Tora is a company that is more well known for producing khukris, but they happen to have recently started making a couple of good 'stand-alone' fixed blade models. The blades are made in Nepal, but I believe the company is located in the UK somewhere. I think this is their main homepage:

http://www.toratoratora.co.uk/

The blade is roughly 4.5" and the handle closer to 4". The blade is fairly thick, and weighs about 7 oz.. I'm not sure what the steel is, but it's some kind of high carbon and likely made from old truck springs. A very talented fellow has touched up the edge and thinned the bevel, and the new convex edge is amazingly sharp.

Thanks!

[Basemetal]

I'll come clean...I'm not a bushcrafter And I could probably have put another dozen knives up if I was in a different mood. But I had a think as to which ones best fitted the bill, were I to take to crocheting bungalows from withies and willow in 4 feet of mud while chewing tubers for fun.
These could be they...

The top is the little Mora/EKA/sloyd knife, the #106. Turns up all over the place, 80 mm carbon steel blade but good sized handle. Just about unbeatable for whittling or anything on the light side, and cheap as chips. There are a few similar models with other blade options.

Second is a cut down Old Hickory skinner. Not so good for woodwork but the curve and width makes it ideal for food prep and general one-off cuts. Still makes a mean skinner.

Third is a heavily disguised Mora...the very basic red birch handled #2, 5" laminated blade. This one has been rehandled and I'm afraid the "forge finish" on the blade was the result of the attentions of Mr Lemerd Dremel.

Bottom is a Lauri Leuku blade made up with an Australian Golden Burl handle and a bit of reindeer.

[ubermeister]

I have just finished this, which is my first knife, which I think - once I get over the fear of scratching it - will be my new bushcraft knife. I also have a Helle Odel and a Shing bushbaby which see a lot of use.

Ant

[Stuart Ackerman]

Zackerty's 440F works a treat whether removing heads/gutting or just chopping them up for bait to catch biger stuff. My only complaint is he doesn't use stainless rivets in the sheath.





Sorry I just hate rust!!



Nick

Nick...
Any hardware shop will have 5mm stainless nuts and mushroom head screws...
I do not use them, as they cost too much here, but I bought 1000, and lost them in the move to my present house...
If can only get 6mm bolts, drill out the holes by hand...in other words, hold the drill bit in your hand and spin it in the Kydex holes, AFTER you have pulled out the rivets...

[mojofilter]

Nick...
Any hardware shop will have 5mm stainless nuts and mushroom head screws...
I do not use them, as they cost too much here, but I bought 1000, and lost them in the move to my present house...
If can only get 6mm bolts, drill out the holes by hand...in other words, hold the drill bit in your hand and spin it in the Kydex holes, AFTER you have pulled out the rivets...

I'll give you a tip for drilling the old rivets out of the sheath....

When you try to drill them, when the drill bites it will just spin the rivets. Instead of sitting the sheath on a flat surface, clamp another drill bit in a vice or workmate, and rest the back of the rivet on it, then drill from the front with your hand drill. The bit at the back will grip bite the rivet and let you drill it out with no spinning....

That's a lot of drills and bits, but it works!

[nick p]

Cheers Stuart. I was really only joking, having a bit of banter with Mojo.
I've got some 5mm button headed screws at work in st/steel so it's entirely down to laziness on my part.
I think my hatred of rust comes from spending several years at work when I first started welding up old MOT failures.

Nick

Ps the mopani in the picture gets more use than all my other fixed blades put together it really is a fine knife!!!

[Stuart Ackerman]

Do NOT drill the rivets out...
Bend the bits back, grab them with a vicegrips or pliers, and yank out...
Drilling might burn the Kydex, making it useless for the bolts...

[Stuart Ackerman]

...or do what Mojo says...

[Angus Og]

[J. J. Magnum]

My Diving Sparrow Bushcrafter may be getting a rest after I pick this one up on the 18th of the month...



This is also by Abe Elias (Diving Sparrow Knifeworks/AKA CanRanger).

Overall Length: 10 1/4" inches
Blade length:: 5" inches
Steel: 1095 1/8th
Handle material: Orange G-10

I had Abe add a couple of special features that I thought would be neat to have; checkering on the handle end for use as a scraper and on the spine as well as a fire steel notch.





Lots of woods time coming up for this one!

[munkyman]

I have just finished this, which is my first knife, which I think - once I get over the fear of scratching it - will be my new bushcraft knife. I also have a Helle Odel and a Shing bushbaby which see a lot of use.

Ant

wow, that's excellent, you can see the guycep design influences