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  1. #91
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Thanks beach bum, I guess different types of steel will yield different results as well.

    I'll try sulphuric acid next, and keep a note of concentration used for you guys in case anyone else wants to use it.


    On that note, if anyone has any crazy ideas on different solutions to use let me know, as I'm a chemist so i can get the chemicals needed easily. that way you wont have to potentially pay for something that doesn't work.


    Andrew

  2. #92
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Wasn't there something said here or elsewhere that after the initial etch reverse the polarity of the croc clips. I'm sure there's a mention of this , but I'm too busy to test it at this moment in time.

    regards

    beaach bum
    £12.38
    Das machine is nicht fur gerfingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der Sprinngwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitzensparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken by das Dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das Pockets, relaxen und watch das blinkenlights

  3. #93
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    I think I missed that, Ill have a trawl through, thankfully its not a huge thread.

  4. #94
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Welll, my tomahawk project is complete.

    Ive actually etched a whole bunch of test desings, but in the end, after I etched the head....I changed my mind and simply decided to use a dremel and a steady hand in order to get the patterns I wanted on the head.

    I know its not an etch but I figured Id post here anyway as its a fairly good alternative....



  5. #95
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    I have used this salt water & battery method with great results. Personally I find blanking out with a strong coloured nail varnish very helpfull. Get some funny looks buying it though. My question is, does this method work on D2, as it's composition is somewhat different to 01. If not, then what can you suggest that will work on it?

    Many thanks

    Skippy Puckins'

  6. #96
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Quote Originally Posted by Skippy Puckins' View Post
    I have used this salt water & battery method with great results. Personally I find blanking out with a strong coloured nail varnish very helpfull. Get some funny looks buying it though. My question is, does this method work on D2, as it's composition is somewhat different to 01. If not, then what can you suggest that will work on it?

    Many thanks

    Skippy Puckins'
    It should work fine. The process is called ECM in the industry and is used for aerospace alloys.
    Here is a link to a technical article on the subject.
    http://electrochem.cwru.edu/encycl/a...-machining.htm
    You can get sodium nitrate off ebay, if you wish to use that as a electrolyte. However I would not expect to see any significant improvement in the result when using a resist mask.

  7. #97
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    In 1982 I was taught electro etching by a worker in the Oregon knife works in Oaxaca. They painted scenes on the blade with asphalthum . Asphalthum is all I have ever used and is usually available online and well worth the cost by the quart. He painted his scene using asphalthum in with a fine brush and then dipped the blade in a salt water bath. So the bath etched the background .
    The negative 12 volt lead ( I used a battery charger ) was on a copper wire dangling in the bath and the positive was on the blade handle. One minute hey presto and there it was. Then he used paint remover to wipe clean. Beautiful scene depicted as etched. The blade was close to being fully finished when he dipped it . This factory had been producing hunting knives and cutlery for over 150 years.
    So I went home and did it for years in a gallon jar of water with a lot of salt. Worked like a charm. Then I decided to skip the process and bought an eloctro-chem unit and had some large stencils made of designs I liked. The process worked beautifully and took five minutes. I will attach 20 year old foto. I make carbon steel kitchen knives and I thought these would sell well at high end custom shows. Barely was able to sell them. So I let the process go. May go back to it someday with small etch as logo - not sure.
    The other way to etch with this process is to paint the blade all over with the asphalthum. It is in a sense watered down asphalt. Let it dry and then add another coat. Always use two dry coats. I used a hair dryer to speed the process up. Then one could scratch in design or lay a drawing over the asphalthum with push pin holes all along, and transfer that way sort of like a how a fresco artist transfers his drawings onto a freshly plastered wall before painting it in. Then etch.
    Check the work here : http://www.boyeknivesgallery.com/index.php/about-us



  8. #98
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Ok. Since I am now using a different method here's what I have used in the past.
    W H Smith sell something called 'Dry Transfer Lettering', it's an old fashioned way of making things look printed before everyone had printers.
    Comes in a small pack about 6''x4'' for a couple of quid. I used 'helvetica medium' font, there are others.
    1. Finish the blade to how you want it to look either polished or matt.
    2. Make sure it's totally clean using something that de-greases, then wipe again with a clean cloth.
    3. Apply the lettering you want to the blade ( takes practice!!)
    4. Using the greaseproof paper in the pack press the letters down firmly.
    5. Using a clean tissue rub gently over the letters until there is no residue around them. (important) You'll probably rub 'em off a few times till you get the feel for it
    6. Mask around the letters with sellotape and mask the rest of the blade.
    7. Electro-Etch using piece of flat metal as contact (about 9-12volts) covered with felt and using salt water as electrolyte (or bought stuff if you like)
    8. Don't let heat build up too much and melt the letters. Best to hold on a few seconds at a time.
    9. Hold breath and remove masking and rub off mess and lettering. Should look like below.
    Best to practice a few times before trying (ruining?) a blade
    Try reversing the polarity on the etcher for deeper or darker etching (i can't remember which is which!)
    Maybe someone will use it if so glad it helps.

    Previously known as Seagull1957
    www.oldoakknives.com

  9. #99
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Been hunting round for etching techniques tonight. Turns out the best advice as always is right here on BB!
    Seagull1957 the "Old Oak" etching looks great. Very nice

  10. #100
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Jouhouuu!It worked!Thanks! DDDDDDD

  11. #101
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Can you etch using beeswax on the blade and scribing the pattern in the beeswax and then submerging in etching solution
    cheers
    Peter PR Abrasives
    www.prabrasives.co.uk

  12. #102
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Can you etch using beeswax on the blade and scribing the pattern in the beeswax and then submerging in etching solution
    cheers
    Peter PR Abrasives
    www.prabrasives.co.uk

  13. #103
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Quote Originally Posted by P Rawlings View Post
    Can you etch using beeswax on the blade and scribing the pattern in the beeswax and then submerging in etching solution
    cheers
    Indeed you can, that technique has been used for centuries when "acid etching". If you haven't got beeswax, then nail polish also works well. Your only issue is ensuring that all the parts of the blade not requiring etching are covered with "resist".
    “I am free, no matter what rules surround me. If I find them tolerable, I tolerate them; if I find them too obnoxious, I break them. I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do.”
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  14. #104
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Thanks I was pretty sure I had read it somewhere but wasnt sure instead of acid etching can ferric chloride do?
    Peter PR Abrasives
    www.prabrasives.co.uk

  15. #105
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    Re: Simple blade etching??

    Quote Originally Posted by P Rawlings View Post
    Thanks I was pretty sure I had read it somewhere but wasnt sure instead of acid etching can ferric chloride do?
    Sure, Ferric is a lot milder, so it'll take a bit longer and you need to be careful about washing out the design when agitating (to get new etchant into the design).
    “I am free, no matter what rules surround me. If I find them tolerable, I tolerate them; if I find them too obnoxious, I break them. I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do.”
    ― Robert A. Heinlein
    My homepage www.tanczos.co.uk
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