backs of knife blades

[mr dazzler]

Greetings to everyone from me new member Mr Dazzler
Can any of you help with a bit of advice??
I made some little knifes several years ago to carve and trim wood, marking knife etc. One or two a bit like japanese printers woodcut knives. I used small pieces of plane irons (thick old ones), and the handles were tapered, a bit like a crooked knife. I had a small little forge in my back yard. On seeing the puukko type knives, I want to make one similar. I like the style-sturdy, hard, no unnecessary ornate parts. Theres many pictures of such on the web, but usually seen from the front. Are the blades flat on the back (single bevelled like a chisel or plane). Can anyone advise me how the back of a larger knife blade should be treated? Should it be flat and polished smooth like you have for a good plane or chisel.
I like japanese waterstones to get a polish finish. I have several salvaged axes and I like to use a single bevel best. I can plane with my best one.
Mr Dazzler :thanks:

[dtalbot]

Nope,
The Pukko blades I have have a bevel on both sides so looking from the point the whole thing is symetrical.
And welcome to the very international madhouse that is British Blades!
Cheers
David

[Martyn]

As david says, they would be symmetrical, like "D" in the below illustration.

[ZDP-189]

Welcome, Mr Dazzler!

[ANDYLASER]

Greetings Mr Dazzler.

[dtalbot]

As david says, they would be symmetrical, like "D" in the below illustration.

Though I think my personal favorite, thanks to my Guycep from the last KITH is C. It is also fairly easy to arrive at C with my limited metalworking skills, a B&D powerfile and some zirconium belts :wink:
Cheers
David

[TheViking]

Hi...

As far as i'm concerned is it:
A = Hollow
B = Secondary bevel
C = Convex
D = Flat

Is this correct??

[Colin KC]

B = Flat
D = Sabre/scandi grind

[mr dazzler]

Thankyou for the quick replies and the little diagrams. I like the look of profile B or D. Would you use a wet stone (revolving) to get a rough forgeing to shape or a belt sander or something else? :thanks:
Mr Dazzler

[narsil]

Although there is no reason why you shouldn't make a chisel ground blade just as you originally described, they do exist and might haev some benefits for specific woodcarving applications. Should certainly be worth a try anyway.

welcome to BB by the way

[Colin KC]

Thankyou for the quick replies and the little diagrams. I like the look of profile B or D. Would you use a wet stone (revolving) to get a rough forgeing to shape or a belt sander or something else? :thanks:
Mr Dazzler

First grind is usually done after forging to shape (if being forged ) or straight from the billet (if being stock removed) by files &/or belt sander, powerfile, angle grinder, grinding wheel (rarely, as it generates too much heat for the amount removed)

Wet stones are mostly used for final finishing, as they revolve too slowly to remove much steel (of course there ARE exceptions, no doubt someone'll inform you)

[mr dazzler]

I thought as much (re: dry grinding wheels). I always thought they were too noisy and agressive. :thanks: When I said wet stone I was thinking of tormek or some similar thing.

[Colin KC]

Yah, the Tormek (whilst very good) only do about 90rpm

[Chux]

Greetings Mr Dazzler