How to wire up an inverter. Properly.

[one_rod]

Nicely done Tim, and very nicely described. Thanks.

It's a good point you make about using ferrules or tinning the control cable ends. That type of switch block terminal does have a habit of letting go of small diameter stranded cable.




one_rod.

[rocco44]

Hi One-Rod, Thanks for a very useful thread. I have a 0.75kw (1hp) 3 Phase motor to wire to an inverter, input 220V Phase1, output 220V Phase 3, Rated 4.0Amps. would be grateful for info as to what input cable and what SY cable to use. 1.5 or 2.5? Many thanks. John.

[one_rod]

John, provided the cable runs are short then 1.5mm cable will be fine for both.

Remember when ordering the SY you need 4-core (3 plus Earth).





one_rod.

[rocco44]

Many thanks for that. Longest run will be about 3ft from mains socket to inverter (twin & earth) and the SY even shorter. Cheers. John.

[Greenbeast]

I'm just about to wire up my inverter and motor, looking for connectors at the moment, how can you make sure they are mains rated, maplins and most ebay auctions don't tell you.

[Greenbeast]

and do i need swa glands? or just standard IP65 glands?

[rocco44]

Hi Greenbeast, I have an SY gland into the metal houseing motor wireing with SY cable going to the inverter box and earthed to its metal back plate. IP55/IP65 (plastic)glands seem OK for the inverter plastic box. If you go to a proper electrical dealer you will get mains rated terminals. hope this helps mate. John.

[Greenbeast]

Thankyou

[darkangel11309]

one_rod.

Hi one_rod

very useful tutorial, is there any chance that I could get permission to use this image on an educational document at work to demonstrate installation safety, it would be greatly appreciated and you will get your name in the document

thanks

[one_rod]

Hi one_rod

very useful tutorial, is there any chance that I could get permission to use this image on an educational document at work to demonstrate installation safety, it would be greatly appreciated and you will get your name in the document

thanks

Please feel free to use anything that may be any use to you.
Don't worry about accreditation, I get a lot more from the members here than I ever give back, so don't mind helping anybody out.

I'm sure I have the original higher-res image archived somewhere. If that would be better for you then let me know and I'll dig it out and email it to you.



one_rod.

[loneronin]

Only a little over a year since Loneronin asked, but you can't rush these things.....

Don't worry timgunn1962, I wired my inverter long ago but I still have to make my remote control panel. and thanks for your info, they seem super. could you also post a pic and explain the connections at the other end (inverter) of the 7 cores wire?

great idea the 3-phase socket on the output, so that you can use the same inverter for different motors/machines. I can use the same settings of the inverter even if I run different RPM and HP motors right?

you also said that you "can just wait for things to cool down if the internal overtemperature shutdown stops the inverter". I'm wondering if this automatic-heat-stop would harm the inverter over the time. in your opinion have I to mount a filtered fan in the dust-proof box to cool down the heat of the inverter? or the risk to get dust through the filter is worst than the overtemperature stop?

[timgunn1962]

Loneronin,

The inverter end is dependent on the requirements of the inverter you are using. It will be different for each model.

I think you said you are using a mitsubishi FRS 50. I can't find anything on that, so assume it's an FRS 500.
If so, the control will need to be wired with "my" wires to the following terminals

+ve to terminal 10
Wiper to terminal 2
-ve to terminal 5 Be prepared to swap over the wires in terminals 10 and 5 if the speed goes up when it should go down.

"Com" to terminal SD
"Fwd" to terminal STF
"Rev" to terminal STR Parameter 62 will need to be set to "---" to enable reverse running
"Stop" to terminal Stop You'll need to assign the stop signal to one of the other terminals with parameters 60-62 and wire into
the assigned terminal

It's not a drive I am familiar with (I don't think I've used a Mitsubishi since 1994), so I can't really help with any advice on the programming.

Regards

Tim

[loneronin]

I finally buy the inverter (mitsubishi fr-s500) and I use this guide to wire it. everthing went well. it's simple and complete.
IMO would be great to add something about the remote controllers (on/off switch, speed up/down potenziometer, run direction,...).

Loneronin,

The inverter end is dependent on the requirements of the inverter you are using. It will be different for each model.

I think you said you are using a mitsubishi FRS 50. I can't find anything on that, so assume it's an FRS 500.
If so, the control will need to be wired with "my" wires to the following terminals

+ve to terminal 10
Wiper to terminal 2
-ve to terminal 5 Be prepared to swap over the wires in terminals 10 and 5 if the speed goes up when it should go down.

"Com" to terminal SD
"Fwd" to terminal STF
"Rev" to terminal STR Parameter 62 will need to be set to "---" to enable reverse running
"Stop" to terminal Stop You'll need to assign the stop signal to one of the other terminals with parameters 60-62 and wire into
the assigned terminal

It's not a drive I am familiar with (I don't think I've used a Mitsubishi since 1994), so I can't really help with any advice on the programming.

Regards

Tim

Right, my inverter is the FR-S 500. You just gave me great tips!!! I'll double check them with the manual, collect the materials required and give it a try.
Thanks to you and to one-rod to start this terrific thread!

great idea the 3-phase socket on the output, so that you can use the same inverter for different motors/machines. I can use the same settings of the inverter even if I run different RPM and HP motors right?

you also said that you "can just wait for things to cool down if the internal overtemperature shutdown stops the inverter". I'm wondering if this automatic-heat-stop would harm the inverter over the time. in your opinion have I to mount a filtered fan in the dust-proof box to cool down the heat of the inverter? or the risk to get dust through the filter is worst than the overtemperature stop?

What do you guys think about my other two doubts? I mean the necessity (or not) to change settings for different motors and the dust-proof box cooling?

what are the specs of the potentiometer? ok, one-turn and linear but how many K? it seems to have only 2 poles in the pic.