Sheathmaking my way

[Tvividr]

During the past year I've had several emails and PM's asking how I make my sheaths. I have promised several people that I would try to make some kind of tutorial. A thing, I found out, is a lot easier said than done. Lots of times I have started taking pics, and then forgotten to follow up all the way through each sheath I made. Now finally I think I've done it - well almost that is....

The following pics show how I make sheaths for a customised Fällkniven WM1, but the process will be similar for other knife models too.
When one of my knives is ready for making a sheath, I always start by measuring and drawing the shape on paper to make a pattern. I start with drawing a centreline. The back or spine of the knife is placed on this line and then rolled to the left and right to draw the profile. It is important that you do this carefully so that the knife does not slip. Holding the knife with my left hand, I draw the outline of the knife's profile with a pencil in my right hand. When I've done this from both sides of the knife, I remove the knife and draw the outline of the sheath. I usually draw the sheath outline about an inch away from the knife's outline to make sure the sheath will fit the knife when stitched up. Note: different thicknesses of leather will require different size patterns, so will different size / thicknesses of handles. If you make a pattern for a specific knife model, you must make sure that you make all handles more or less exactly the same size.



After you have drawn the outline of the sheath along the edge and handle, you have to decide how far up the handle you want the sheath to fit. This is more or less an eyeball affair, but you may take the design and handle proportions into consideration. A general rule says something like the sheath must go 2/3 up the handle or something like that. Also make provision for the belt loop. The pic of the pattern show the drawing for a left handed sheath seen from the flesh side of the leather (to make a right handed one the belt loop should be placed to the left hand side when seen from the flesh side of the leather - just flip the pattern over to use for right or left handed sheaths).

The outline of the knife's edge and handle is also drawn to make the welt piece sandwiched between the actual sheath piece of leather.

Once the pattern is done I transfer it from the sketch paper onto some more rigid paper or hard plastic, and use that for future sheaths. The pattern is then transferred to the piece of leather you are going to use for the sheath. I usually use 3,5 mm hick leather, but may sometimes use other thicknesses too. To be able to form the sheath to an exact fit to the knife it is important that you use vegetable tanned leather. Chrome tanned leather can't be shaped in the same way, and therefore do not work for this process.



Once the pattern of the sheath and welt has been drawn I cut it out with an ordinary Stanley knife or a scalpel. I wrap it around the knife to make sure that it will fit properly.
I usually glue additional pieces of leather on the welt in the handle area, in order to make the welt slightly wedge shaped - thicker in the handle area than in the blade area.

[Tvividr]

Before I start gluing the welt to the main part of the sheath, I always round off the edges (both sides of the leather) of the belt loop and opening (mouth) of the sheath. This is done with a special tool called an Edge Beveler. It is easier to do this while the leather is flat than after the sheath has been sewn.



I then use the pattern for the welt to mark on the inside of the sheath where the welt will go, and where I have to put glue. I use ordinary contact cement for gluing, and have never had any problems with that (apart from the smell and vapour of the thinners in the glue). Glue is put on both surfaces to be joined.





Once the welt has been glued on the left hand side of the sheath, I sew the belt loop.

[Tvividr]

Once done, I glue up the sheath completely (glue applied to welt and other side of the sheath, which is then pressed together). At this point it actually starts looking like a sheath. It might be necessary to trim the opening slightly, where the leather is glued together. Do this before marking where the stitches will go.





Now it is time to mark where the stitching will go. Again I use the pattern for the welt and mark the inner profile lightly, so that I won't accidentally put the stitches too close to the edge, or even not through the welt at all.



The line for the stitches is then drawn, again this is an eyeball affair. The holes are then marked with a spacing/overstitch wheel tool. I've got spacing wheels that makes a mark 3 and 5 mm apart. I usually use the 5 mm one.



Holes are then drilled with a 1,5 mm drill bit (1 mm bits are more prone to break. The leather will swell and shrink the holes when wetted anyway, so the slightly larger drill bit will not make any difference).

[Tvividr]

Once holes are drilled I sew the sheath using one thread with a needle in both ends. The needles are locked into the thread - see pic.



I usually start sewing from the bottom, then "backstitch" 2 or 3 stitches at the top. I sew each stitch from both sides one at a time all the way up. Make sure you tighten well, but do not draw so hard that the thread breaks.

[Tvividr]

When the sheath has been sewn it is time to start shaping it to the knife. First you must prepare the knife by oiling the blade and wrap it in a piece of plastic - I use ordinary household cling foil (plastic wrapping foil) for this. Wrap the handle in a single layer overlapping, while the blade can be wrapped a couple more times. You may also want to use a piece of cardboard as spacers on each side of the blade, to make more blade space inside the sheath.



When everything is ready I wet the sheath in lukewarm water for about 30 seconds to one minute. You can wet it longer (and half tanned leather for scandi sheaths need longer time), but it will then take longer to dry enough for the pressed shape to set nice and firm. I've found that 30 sec to 1 min is enough for the leather to become soft enough to form nicely, and set in shape quite soon.



The knife is put in the wet sheath, and I start forming the front part of the handle area on the sheath. I do his by pressing and rolling the handle of the modelling tool in this area. I also flatten the blade part with the handle of the modelling tool.





The shaping and making of a fine line along the handle profile is done with the points / "blades" of the modelling tool. You will have to do this several times while the leather dries (you can use a hairdryer to speed up this process). I normally use a few more and different shaped Modelling Tools as well for my scandi sheaths, but on this kind of sheath I only use the one shown in the pic.

[Tvividr]

When the leather is so dry (but still damp) that it holds the shape that you have formed around the knife, it is put aside to dry completely. Drying time varies, but I typically leave the sheath for at least 24 hours or usually 48 hours before I remove the knife from the sheath.
When the sheath is dry, I cut off the excess leather along the edge and grind the edge smooth on a combined disc / belt grinder.





Then this edge is rounded with the Edge Bevel Tool, and the sheath is now ready for colouring. I like to dye the leather in black or brown colours, and do this with Wool Daubers. The edge is finished with black Edge Kote.





When the leather is dyed I leave the sheath to dry. The leather can then get some leather hardener which is a commercial product, or you can make a very thin solution of shellac and spirits which is applied on the inside of the sheath with a brush. This will also seal and fixate the dye so that it will not stain light coloured handle woods.
Finally the sheath needs some sort of leather dressing applied to make it waterproof. You can use any of the commercial products used for leather boots, buy special products at the leather store or make your own.
On a lot of my sheaths I use a mixture of beeswax, caranauba wax, lanoline (wool fat) and a dash of peanutoil. The beeswax and lanoline being the main engredients. Mixing is something around 40% beeswax, 40% lanoline (wool fat), 10% caranauba wax and 10% peanutoil. I apply this mixture with my fingers and work it into the leather several times, then do a final polish with a soft cloth. In my opinion this mixture give the leather a more "soft" or deeper natural shine than most commercial products.
I have also tried the hot dip (heated oil / wax mix) method of waterproofing a leathersheath, but do not like it at all. There is too much risk of deep frying and destroying several hours work on the sheath (yep, done that, never going to do it again), in addition the sheath also tend to become very heavy which is not to everybody's likening.



Done !

[tomtom]

really great tutorial Gerd!!!!

if thats your dining table you are in BIG trouble though!

[Basemetal]

Fantastic
Really well put together tutorial.

Thanks Gerd

[beach bum]

Excellent, most informative, but do tell me, how is it that the thread doesn't take up the dye? Your thread appears to be still quite white.

Thanks



regards


beach bum

[Tvividr]

Glad you like it guys. I hope it is informative enough for you to get a good idea of how I make the sheaths, and inspiring enough for those who have not yet made their own.

.......if thats your dining table you are in BIG trouble though!

I've got a laminated wooden board underneath when I cut and make holes with the awl. But under that it is the dining table yes

Excellent, most informative, but do tell me, how is it that the thread doesn't take up the dye? Your thread appears to be still quite white. Thanks
regards
beach bum

I use a very high quality linen thread which is waxed. Due to the wax it will not take up the dye enough to darken. I mainly use this kind of thread as it is much stronger than the finish dyed threads (I've done a few breaking tests). If I am requested to use a thread in say black (which then comes without wax), I start sewing from the top to the bottom and then sew all the way back to the top again. This way I am sure that the stitches will be as strong as they are with the light coloured thread.

[mic201m]

Thanks Gerd for a superb piece of work, especially when you have to complete that nice little order, at the same time.

regards mic.

[ZDP-189]

Good one. This should be a sticky.

[Danzo]

Good one. This should be a sticky.

Agreed. And on the Website. Excellent info Gerd.



Danzo

[PS_Bond]

Excellent stuff!

[Raoul Duke]

Brilliant!!!