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  1. #16
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Andylaser,
    if you own a Spydie UK Penknife, try and see if any of those Ti screws could replace the so called problem ones, the ones where a Torx will not fit correctly?
    Report back here, and if they do fit, a lot of folks will be happy, I guess...

  2. #17
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Until recently I used 6Al4V exclusively for all my folder frames. I agree with all the above remarks regarding working. With regard to dust, I grind right over a dust extractor which passes through a water butt. The water has detergent and sodium bicarbonate added to kill the surface tension. The dust extractor trunking is stainless steel chimney liner and the air vents to external atmosphere. The butt needs to be desludged very now and again and fine dust which misses the extractor head removed after every grinding session with a vacuum cleaner. Why all this trouble? I had a fire in the workshop which bit into the concrete floor!! Titanium would make a great thermic lance!! Anyway no trouble snce then.
    I never cut internal threads in titanium. I drill and interference fit a 316 sleeve and thread that instead. That way if the thread is damaged you just replace the sleeve.
    Mike Lamprey

  3. #18
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Re: box of Ti Bolts. If you cannot find a better use for them, grind them into centrepunches and fit them into steel bodys. (then send me 2)
    Last edited by Bogflogger; 07-01-06 at 09:10 PM.
    "When Learned Men Begin To Use Their Reason, Then I Generally Discover That They Haven't Got Any."
    (G.K.Chesterton)

    "Nothing Is Quite Like A Ham Custard Placed Up A Donkeys Bottom." (Danzofish Tm)


    7/7/05 Proud to be a Londoner.

  4. #19
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Quote Originally Posted by zackerty
    Looks like I am the only one who uses Ti?

    i have lots of Ti (24 feet of 8mm round rod ) and i have no means of working it at the moment but that will change soon. I just dont know what to do with it
    Richard
    Proud Spyderco owner , Colin KC knife owner , Serrata knife owner
    Everybody's born right handed, Only the gifted overcome it

  5. #20
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    i also have the piece mentioned in this http://www.britishblades.com/forums/...light=titanium thread sitting around somewhere.
    Richard
    Proud Spyderco owner , Colin KC knife owner , Serrata knife owner
    Everybody's born right handed, Only the gifted overcome it

  6. #21
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Mloc, I'll be interested in buying so Titanium rod if you are selling, do you know what grade it is?

    As an aside, I was tapping some 2mm thick 6AL4V Ti liners when the 2mm tap broke and I couldn't get it out. I left it in some dilute nitric acid and the tap dissolved after 24 hours and the Ti was unaffected.

    I found Ti is slightly more difficult to tap than stainless but it works easy enough except angle grinding as it produces loads of really bright white sparks that I have to try not to look at due to the UV.

  7. #22
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    I know this is digging up an old thread, but if I take it slow, would a diamond burr on a dremel have any affect on ti?

  8. #23
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    And another question, using this method to anodise the ti, if I masked off part and anodised with say three cells and then stripped off the mask and anodised with one cell, would the previous anodising be affected? Also, rather than using batteries which lose power, would one of those switchable voltage mains adapters be ok to use with obvious reasonable care?
    Last edited by MotorbikeMan; 12-04-06 at 03:06 PM.

  9. #24
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Quote Originally Posted by mloc
    i have lots of Ti (24 feet of 8mm round rod ) and i have no means of working it at the moment but that will change soon. I just dont know what to do with it
    Hi mloc,

    Sorry I can't suggest a use for your Ti, but i could use some as spacers in my Ti folders.

    Would you be interested in selling me about a metre of the rod?

    If so please pm me with the details.

    Andy..

  10. #25
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Quote Originally Posted by APG1961
    Hi mloc,

    Sorry I can't suggest a use for your Ti, but i could use some as spacers in my Ti folders.

    Would you be interested in selling me about a metre of the rod?

    If so please pm me with the details.

    Andy..

    I'll have a look if i have any in the house but i think most of it went across the channel to my new place or to Mr Yarrow at leeds i'll get back to you asap
    Richard
    Proud Spyderco owner , Colin KC knife owner , Serrata knife owner
    Everybody's born right handed, Only the gifted overcome it

  11. #26
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Quote Originally Posted by MotorbikeMan
    I know this is digging up an old thread, but if I take it slow, would a diamond burr on a dremel have any affect on ti?
    Jon, Ti heats up VERY quickly, so any stock removal should be one that takes a lot of material away, without heating...If the diamond is aggresive, try it, and see...If the Ti goes rainbow coloured, then the area has heated up beyong 500° C, and oxidation has taken place, and HTed the rainbw area, but just the surface...
    The diamond will stilll cut, but with more difficulty.
    Sandblasting the Ti when it "Rainbows" will remove the problem, but the design might change, if you blast too much.

    Mission charge a lot of money for their knives, and I know why!!!

  12. #27
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Quote Originally Posted by zackerty
    Jon, Ti heats up VERY quickly, so any stock removal should be one that takes a lot of material away, without heating...If the diamond is aggresive, try it, and see...If the Ti goes rainbow coloured, then the area has heated up beyong 500° C, and oxidation has taken place, and HTed the rainbw area, but just the surface...
    The diamond will stilll cut, but with more difficulty.
    Sandblasting the Ti when it "Rainbows" will remove the problem, but the design might change, if you blast too much.

    Mission charge a lot of money for their knives, and I know why!!!
    What if I had the ti in a shallow bath of water or even something like wd40 to cool it? Any thoughts on the mains converter rather than batteries to anodise it as well? What I'm after doing with it first is to make a pendant about an inch in diameter and then anodising it.

  13. #28
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Keeping it cool is good, and working in a vacuum is better, but how long can you hold your breath?
    Drilling it under a coolant will prevent work hardening, and if you get it right, you can be well pleased with yourself!!
    Tim McCreights book on metals and anodising etc will help you immensely...do not know the title, but any good library will have it...

  14. #29
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Quote Originally Posted by zackerty
    Keeping it cool is good, and working in a vacuum is better, but how long can you hold your breath?
    Drilling it under a coolant will prevent work hardening, and if you get it right, you can be well pleased with yourself!!
    Tim McCreights book on metals and anodising etc will help you immensely...do not know the title, but any good library will have it...
    What about chemical etching. I know that ti is very stable, that's the reason I'm using it. I'm assuming that this technique won't work on it. Is there anything I can do relatively safely at home that will?

  15. #30
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    Re: Working with Titanium

    Quote Originally Posted by zackerty
    Tim McCreights book on metals and anodising etc will help you immensely...do not know the title, but any good library will have it...
    Complete Metalsmith is the only one that springs to mind - I don't know of one by him specifically on anodising?
    Peter

    ethics (Noun, pl)
    1. a code of behaviour, esp. of a particular group, profession, or individual: business ethics
    2. the moral fitness of a decision, course of action, etc.

 

 

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