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Thread: Tiffers Tips!

  1. #91
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    Quote Originally Posted by leon-1
    I took it to mean that 5400 yards of 18/3 was equal to 1 pound of flax.
    Well, that's not what it says. It is quite explicit in saying "three yarns, each made from 1 pound of flax".

    Quote Originally Posted by leon-1
    If you seperated the 3 strands that make up the thread you would have fibre to the length of 16,200 yards.
    That's right, and three pounds of flax.

    Of course, I have no idea whether Bowstock have got it right though.

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  2. #92
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    I've searched but not found.... Can you help?

    After dyeing my sheath/pouch/whathaveyou how should I finish the item? Oil it? - with what? Beeswax? Snoseal? What works best?

    TIA,

    R.

  3. #93
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    Quote Originally Posted by Weekend_Warr
    After dyeing my sheath/pouch/whathaveyou how should I finish the item? Oil it? - with what? Beeswax? Snoseal? What works best?
    The best general purpose finisher/sealer is Neatsfoot oil. Just keep feeding it in 'till you can't get any more in or you get bored Available from most of the internet leather supplies places or your local saddlery.

    There'll be other more knowledgeable leatherworkers answering eventually though. See what they come up with as well...

    Cheers,
    Rod
    This is a white chocolate Magnum, the tastiest ice cream in the world, and it'll blow your sensitive teeth clean out ...

    Yes, actually, I am "bovvered".

  4. #94
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    I have to confess I dont like pure neatsfoot oil as it can over soften some items. I know some people have a lot of success with a beeswax/carnuba/neatsfoot mix which seems like a better alternative to me. The beeswax helps retain the stiffness of the item while the carnuba gives it a nice finish and the neatsfoot acts as a thinner for the 2 waxes.

    I'm not sure what the quantities are though but I'll have a look and see what I can find, failing that, someone might be able to enlighten us as its a mix I want to try too

    Tiffers
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    I tried a neetsfoot/beeswax/carnuba a while ago as a handle finish, but the carnuba kept flaking up. I still have it somewhere so I will try adding bit more oil and see what it's like for leather.

    Tiffers, would you suggest I make a cream, stiff wax, thin paste? how thick should it be??
    Don't just tickle it...


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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    I reckon it should be a thin paste when cold then when you apply it, I think it needs to be warmed up a little to a runny gloop and I dont think it would hurt the leather to be warmed slightly either, maybe with a hairdryer from a slight distance so it doesnt burn!

    Tiffers
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    thanks, I'll give that a go. I'm just making a sheath for my cutting comp knife
    Don't just tickle it...


    dave budd handmade tools knives, tools and courses makin' them! 2013 Course List NOW ONLINE!

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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiffers
    I have to confess I dont like pure neatsfoot oil as it can over soften some items. I know some people have a lot of success with a beeswax/carnuba/neatsfoot mix ...
    I have to agree - I've made some nice supple pouch sheaths using only neatsfoot, but I recently bought one of Herman's (ggf666 or whatever your name is) scandis and his veg tanned sheath was very hard. He said a beeswax/avcocado mix. I'm tempted to try it as the finish was just right for a scandi. It felt like a sneaky way to get a half-tanned/saamileather finish if you know what I mean
    This is a white chocolate Magnum, the tastiest ice cream in the world, and it'll blow your sensitive teeth clean out ...

    Yes, actually, I am "bovvered".

  9. #99
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiffers
    I have to confess I dont like pure neatsfoot oil as it can over soften some items. I know some people have a lot of success with a beeswax/carnuba/neatsfoot mix which seems like a better alternative to me. The beeswax helps retain the stiffness of the item while the carnuba gives it a nice finish and the neatsfoot acts as a thinner for the 2 waxes.

    I'm not sure what the quantities are though but I'll have a look and see what I can find, failing that, someone might be able to enlighten us as its a mix I want to try too

    Tiffers
    Thanks for the info - I've just ordered some saddle butter from the USA! Has a nice mix of all these ingredients and it was cheaper to buy a pint of it there and have it shipped (under a tenner). I'll let you know how I get on with it...

    PS. I is a leather virgin no more - three wet formed items now awaiting stitching.

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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    Ok here is a question for you tiffer's. not really knife related but Im sure it will be helpful to others.

    Ive made myself a nice leather watch strap out of Veg tanned leather. but because I like to feel my watches I have it tighter than most would and as a result the strap has stretched you can actually see it get narrower just before the buckle.

    when I make a replacement strap is there anything I can do to prevent this?

    Am I using the wrong leather?
    Do I have to pre-stretch it?


    Cheers in advance
    Steve

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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    Hmm, this is a characteristic of anything that pulls up tight to a buckle. I recently made a watch strap for someone and I used some very light hide that I covered some 2mm thick shoulder with. I'd be surprised if it stretches too much but I wouldnt guarantee it.

    The denser the leather and the less stretch there will be. I guess you could always use german half tan leather to make it with, there would be minimal stretch with that.

    Tiffers
    Do you have a leatherwork question? Try checking HERE to see if your question has already been asked.
    Patience is a virtue.....

  12. #102
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    Tiffers, I have recently relearned how to use a sewing machine, something I probably shouldn't admit to outside of this fine forum!! I want to make some leather bags for stowing bushcraft kit in, fire making kit, food items such as coffee and etc. What should I be using leatherwise, and will a normal off the shelf household sewing machine sew through leather? I take it the leather could be the thinnest available, but I'm not too sure what to go for and what thread also to use. Is there something the same sort of thickness as cotton but a lot stronger?

    Sorry, loads of questions I know, but I am sure you are the person that will be able to help me.

  13. #103
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    mmm - some good tips - maybe I should add some of mine sometime?

    I wouldn't use fishing line for sewing though

    IF you get THAT desperate you can always resort to Dental Floss

    BUT - IF you DO want to use fishing line - take the hooks & floaters off first

    Jon

    (p.s. - I have now posted pics of some of my work)

  14. #104
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    I've got a falcon hood to make up and oddly enough was recommended to use dental floss for that, just to make sure I didnt use the minty kind

    Tiffers

    P.S Spamel! I'm sorry, I had missed your post and will drop you a pm
    Do you have a leatherwork question? Try checking HERE to see if your question has already been asked.
    Patience is a virtue.....

  15. #105
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    Re: Tiffers Tips!

    Quote Originally Posted by Moore Leather View Post
    mmm - some good tips - maybe I should add some of mine sometime?
    Yes you should!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiffers View Post
    I've got a falcon hood to make up and oddly enough was recommended to use dental floss for that, just to make sure I didnt use the minty kind
    Any particular reason for the floss over normal thread?

 

 

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