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Q&A sesh on sheathmaking
A bit free-form as a tutorial, but hopefully worth hanging onto.
Dave Barker asked me a few questions on sheathmaking, and I filled in the blanks as best I could... I would add that one of the best resources I've found to date has to be Chuck's DVD on sheathmaking, and I've pinched just about every idea going in it. For them as don't know, it is available through Geno at http://ccinstructionalvideos.com/Onwards and upwards: Quote:
Do it with paper (or thin card) first, definitely. You can use that for a pattern afterwards. Quote:
Draw a centreline, lay the spine on the centreline, roll the blade flat, draw round blade & handle. Do the same for the other side. Add a 1/2" or so margin around, maybe a little more for a thicker handle. Draw in the belt loop, starting just in from the centreline, preferably not too wide (i.e. so that the stitching for the loop will be completely clear of the welt). Quote:
Yes, but... Read through to my comments on the firesteel holder. Quote:
OK, I haven't tried the Kydex press approach on mine yet. I tend to shape the sheath after sewing it, but whatever. Quote:
BEVEL THE EDGES Then burnish.Oh - and go over your stitching with an overstitch wheel. Quote:
Could do, I'm trying to visualise it at the moment. Most of the holders seem to be wrapped either side of the welt, possibly with additional welt pieces to bulk out the handle area a bit. So you'd glue one side of the holder in, then the welt, then the other side. Quote:
Yup. Or you can do a separate one, which I've taken to doing recently. Pros and cons - looks good (no flesh side showing), still strong but a bit more work. Quote:
Evostick, but any contact adhesive in a pinch. Quote:
S'one of these: You can use a sewing stitch marking wheel, but the ones I've seen have plastic wheels, so aren't really strong enough to burnish the stitches at the end of sewing. Quote:
I tend to do mine about as far from the edge as the thickness of the leather I'm sewing, perhaps a bit less if I think it looks wrong. I start from the top and work down, backstitching the last 2 or 3 holes so that both threads finish on the back face. Cut carefully to leave them flush with the sheath, then I tend to put a drop of superglue on to make doubly sure. Linen thread doesn't melt too well... Quote:
Skive. Just breaks the corners and improves the look. Quote:
Possibly, but make sure you leave at least 1/3 of the leather from the skin side as that is where the strength is. Quote:
I tend to, yes, but other people don't. I have yet to try forming before sewing, might get around to it in the next week or so (got to do some baton holsters). HTH!
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